gmoreno

Thanks Mike. And yes, it does help, alot. We do have Traverse Bay on our radar. However, when we phoned them about reservations, the answering device explained that they were closed and wouldn't re-open until May. Hate to wait 'till May to make reservations, only to find out that they are full. We have also looked at the other RV resorts you mentioned, and they do look tantalizing. Thanks for your two cents worth on MI. Still leaning toward Petosky. Now, if I can only get enough diet coke and rum coarsing through my wife's veins to persuade her to give MI a try, then it would have all been worth it. Right now, she has the smokey mountains in her cross-hair sights, and there ain't no budging my fiesty Itlalian-Irish hybrid wife. Time for some bedroom pillow talk, I guess. So far, she's picked a place called "The Dell." We'll just have to wait and see. A real nail-biter for the FMCA readers so, stay tuned on who wins the 15 rounds! Oh yea, she's also moved onto The Outer Banks and Charleston. Why didn't may Dad tell me that it's a women's perogative to change her mind? Would have joined the priesthood and saved me some headaches!! OK. SORRY women readers...not bashing...just some late night humor for FMCA readers...now, where's that bottle of rum..... Now, to Mr. Herman Mullins: Not really a loaded question...but I see your point....what I might deem luxury might be someone else's yuk. Got it. However, in my original post, I prefaced what it was I was looking for: a Class A ONLY rv resort...not just a luxury resort. Not trying to pick a fight with ya', but just re-stating what I am looking for. Besides, ain't gonna try and hog-tie a fellow Texan, as I noticed on your avatar. I grew up in El Paso, went to College in Denton, worked in Dallas (slung whiskey at "Old San Francisco Steakhouse" on restaurant row), shot the rapids in Terlingua, and the kicker is that my heart was broken for the first time by a college sweetie who lived in Ana, Texas...****...screw the bottle of rum....now I need to try and find my bottle of Jose Cuervo...because you are a friend of mine....as the old '80s song goes! I think I'll email someone at FMCA to pick their brain about finding a comprehensive website or publication on Class A luxury rv resorts across the states. Thanks to all, and up-dates to follow! Rob

Thanks fellas. I have a Class A, 35' gas v-10. I'll check with the manufacturer of the tires to see what I have; steel vs aluminum. I'll also investigate my current water pump and take Brett's advice and see how much of an up-grade I can go to with a more powerful pump, minding my current set-up. I do have a portable 3gl air compressor, but the one at HFT would stay in my garage. I'm thinking of going for the 26gl simply to speed up the process of putting air not only tires of the rig, but the cars and riding mower and anything else that I have. Any takers on Q1? Class A only luxury rv resorts? Thanks, Rob

Hi all: 1. Is there a database or website that lists RV resorts for Class A only? Been all over the 'net and having a very hard time finding these typs of luxury rv resorts. 2. I need to purchase tire stem extenders. Do I need Stainless Steel? Do I need copper? Do they remain attached to the wheels? I went to my local Rv show here in Boston recently and one sales person told me that I needed to determine what type of stems are currently on my rear tires which in turn, will determine SS vs. other metals. Also, that the extenders will stay put. Can someone help me verify what it is I need to do? 3. I have my eye on a 26gl air compressor at Harbor Freight Tools. Is this a large and strong enough of a compressor to top off air in the tires of my Class A? Also, to blow out water in the rig when winterizing? 4. Thinking of making a trip to Petosky, MI. Any feedback from Rv'rs who have stayed at Hearthside Grove? Sites to take in and things to do in the area will also be helpful. I will have a 3 and 7 year old in tow. 5. I'm thinking of up-grading my Shurflo fresh water pump to a larger model that will give me just a bit more water pressure. I read somewhere on this post that if I up-grade, I need to be concerned that I don't blow out a fuse. Can someone walk me through on how to determine how much larger of a freshwater pump I could up-grade to without any additional expenses of up-grading electrical issues in the Rig? Thanks fellow rv'rs! Rob

So I'm considering installing the ems lchw-50 on my class A. I visited the dealers website and downloaded the .pdf that descibes the install process. I noticed that there are two possible installs: first, EMS before transfer box and the second, after the transfer box. So here's my question: Installing the ems after the transfer box will also protect my rig in the event the rig's generator produces dirty power, right? If so, then I'm a dead duck sitting in water...meaning I have no power in the rig at all. Should I consider this as an option for the install? Thanks, Rob

UP-date on generator install: My electrician STRONGLY ADVISED me not trying to use two generators at the same time. Something about each generator giving off different sine waves and not synching. Maybe because I had a hair-brained idea that we could hook both protable and MH generator in "parallel" so that I could power more stuff in my house; effectively achieving 10kw. In sum, he installed an interlock switch on my home panel, labeled the really important stuff, and just told me to be VERY CAREFUL which breaker switches to turn off and on during an outage...especially if I keep my well pump water breaker switch in the on position indefinetly. Though Bretts idea was a very good one about having two sub-panels, I still wouldn't have the flexibility of flipping whatever breaker switches I wanted to the "on" position at a moments notice. Also, I could eventually purchase a larger, more powerful generator and not worry about the seperate panels. Also, interlock switch was about $150....a heck of a lot cheaper than two sub-panels.

It sounds like I'll go with shades that you can attach from the outside. I'll look into the Magna Shades and MCD. I briefly - and I mean really briefly - visited both both Magna Shade and MCD websites. But again, because my due diligence was not sufficient, I did not see language on either website that stated that I will be able to look out once any one of these shades are attached. Wayne, what say you? Can you see out your front windshield when you have your Magna Shade up? Bill, I think you answered the question, but not sure. Does it sound that with either shade, I'll still be able to look out? Thanks fellas, Rob

This post has been helpful for me, though I came to the prom party a little bit late, but hoping someone could reply with my questions about rv shades. It sounds like the MCD shades are best, aesthetically speaking. But it also sounds like the interior type shades work just as well. So my specific question are two fold: First, I would like to look out the windshield and still see the nice view of whatever it is that's out there. Can I do this with the MCD shade? With respect to the interior type shade, manufactureres claim that you can see outside, but no one can see in. Is this true? Additionally, the interior shade manufactureres market their product by noting what percentage of sun shade you prefer; 85, 88 and some claim 94% of blocking light. Is this true? Second part of the question is we are a young family (6 and 3 year old kids). The 3 year old boy loves to climb on top of our 2010 Damon Class A dash and enjoys looking out the window (not while driving of course!). Given that the windshield can get mighty hot, which would be safer and better for my specific situation; MCD or the interior style shade? And for the record, when we traveled last year, from MA to FL and back, with several stops along the way, the windshield did get mighty hot, and we really had to watch both kids very carefully so that neither child got hurt by the sun beating down on the windshield. Since last year was our first year in using the rig, I didn't know about the windshield getting hot, so I never bothered to look into how to keep the sun out. And when the sun did come in and realized that it was mucho caliente (very hot!) in the rig, I used the factory equipped pleated curtain to help keep the heat out, and some cool A/C air in the rig. Thanks and hoping to hear from some folks! Rob

I would tow 4 down. Check the link below to see if your 4x4 can in fact be towed 4 down. Also, consult your vehicle owners manual. http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing/204 -- must sign in as an FMCA member.

Thanks Paul for your kind reply. I'll wait a few days to see who also may reply to my post before I attempt to make contact with Pricillia Crowther. I'll look into the campgrounds you suggested in ME. Robert "Bob" Moreno

Hello all and am hoping to get tons of replies with my post. Need lots of advice and ideas. We're thinking of traveling to Nova Scotia this summer (summer 2012) and plan to leave late June. We can be on the road for as long as three weeks, maybe four. We will travel with our dogs (3) and two kids; a 3 year old boy and 7 year old girl. We have a 35' 2010 Damon Daybreak gas, V-10, and we will be towing a mini-cooper. My Tow dolly has surge brakes and I can easily attach lights to the mini-cooper if laws in Canada dictate as such. We reside on Boston's North Shore area, so based on some quick mapblasts searches, the distance to NS is about 700 miles one way. We already have current passports. We've heard that when traveling with pets, and on the way back from Canada to the States, dog food must be in the original packing. OK. Now that you guys have read what I've got, here's where I need some help: Kids will need to be entertained alot; especially the 3 year old. They won't probably be able to really appreciate this trip simply because they are a bit young. Therefore, we will need some campsites and destination ideas to keep them busy and entertained during this long journey. For example, a campsite with kidde pools would be great. Kid friendly towns to visit along the way, etc. Also, some advice and help on how much to tour NS. In other words, what different "leg" journeys will be best; either in the RV or in the mini-cooper. There was a recent article in the FMCA Magazine about some ideas when touring NS. This was a great help, but I still need some more information. Also, as I read the article, it sounded like some of the RV parks in NS were limited in amenities...especially 50amp service. I think Acadia National Park (Bar Harbor) is on the way to NS from our area. So, we plan to probably dry camp at the National park, but again, would prefer to have a nice RV park instead so the kids can stretch their limbs and expend some energy. Finally, any other advice on traveling or precautions from veteran RV'ers on my way to NS is most welcome. OK...Run with the BULLS! Start posting! Rob

We purchased the ACME tow dolly and haven't looked back. It has the surge brake system, LED lights, and spare tire. We tow my wife's '02 Mini-cooper with a CVT transmission. We took the kids to Disney World Florida and back summer 2010 (we live in MA) and had some small problems, but nothing that I couldn't handle; mostly user error, such as not cinching the tire straps securly. Never lost the car, but thank God I always used the safety chains. Purchased the ACME because it was lighter and frankly, more budget friendly. Also, I wanted to make sure that the loading ramps of any tow dolly would not but-up on the cooper's underside floor board. One last bit of advice would be to make sure you purchase a drop hitch low enough so that the tow dolly' tongue is as much parrallel to the MH receiver hitch as possible. I think I have an 8" drop I'll also up-grade my tow dolly to what ACME has - which is the rapid system tire strap system. Should make loading and unloading the Mini tons faster and easier. I drive a 35' 2010 Damon Daybreak, gas, V-10.

Thanks Brett. I'm certain when the electrician arrives, we'll make a better decision about which generator has what for amperage. I know the stand alone has a label that reads "30A" on the outside of the gas tank. With respect to the MH, I don't have it here with me to verify amperage, but when I pick it up from repairs, I'll be sure to further investigate. Thanks, Robert

Hi everyone: I have 5.5 KW Onan generator in my 35' Damon Daybreak MH ( I think this is a 50 amp unit). I'm exploring the possibility of hiring an electrician to see if he can wire this unit to a transfer switch so that the generator can provide us back-up power in the house. Transfer switch would be a 10 circuit. Secondly, I also have a stand-alone 5.5 KW Generac generator, 30 amp. Would also like the electrician to wire this unit to provide power to the house. Both the MH and the stand-alone generator would hopefully work in tandem to power the house. Transfer switch would be a 6 circuit. My needs are: 1. Well pump for water. 2. Septic pump ejector. 2. Water heater for forced hot water heat in the house 3. Two household Fridges. 4. Some lighting throughout the house. 5. A TV or two for the kiddos. We were out of power in the North shore area of Boston with a recent freak winter storm just before Halloween and we were out of power for 4 days. Reason number 16,523 to own your own rig...we lived in the unit for four days!! Any advice? Thanks! Robert

We stayed at Lake-in-woods over the summer. Nice clean place. However, they close November 1st. You may want to phone them to see if they also have "temps." We have two young kids and fido and this place had plenty of amenities to keep everyone happy, including an indoor pool. Lake in woods is about 1/2 drive to Hershey, as I recall. Bonus in staying here is that you are also in the heart of Amish country - Lancaster County, PA. So, you can explore this area should you desire a change of scenery. Good luck! Robert

We tow a 2002 Mini cooper behind our Damon Daybreak. However, our mini is an automatic CVT transmission and therefore, we tow with a dolly, front wheels up.

Did you encounter black streaks and such when you had your cover? Did the wind damage your paint job because of buffering? Thanks, Robert

Thanks everyone for your two cents worth about covering my rig over the winter. A big thanks to Mike for the great check-off list of what he does to winterize his rig. Very useful information. So I won'y buy a cover, I'll cover only the tires, I may still park the rig on a grassy area in my yard (tires off of the grass), fire up the engine and run the generator and weather permitting, cruise in the rig for 50 miles or so. On just a slightly different topic, the Class A MH we have was our very first purchase...never camped in our lives before...much less traveled. Happened to stay in Hilton Head at Outdoor Resorts on Arrow Street. WOW! WOW! WOW! and a KOW-A-BUNGA!!! What a really nice place....though we felt that we were the step-child of RVs at this place..Newmars...Foretravels...Prevosts...! What a really, clean, nice place. Everything was paved and just fantastically immaculate! Why aren't there any places like that here in the Northeast?

Thanks for the input. Waiting to read a reply concerning an RV cover and whether or not it is necessary.

Hey Everyone: I'm considering covering my 35' Class A (gas) this winter (I live around the Boston area...lots of snow). I'll also winterize the unit. Are all Class A covers created equal? What should I look for when purchasing a cover? Is it necessary to even cover the rig during the winter? (I'll cover the tires). I'll fire-up the rig and the generator from time to time to keep componetries in check. Also, I'll park the rig on my asphalt driveway. Do I need to elevate the tires or rest the tires on some Pressure Treated wood? I may also consider storing the rig in an area on my property where there is grass. Any considerations or things to look out for if I store the rig in the grassy area? In all, the rig will be lifeless from about late November to April....bummer. Wish I lived in the south somewhere so I can keep on RV'ing! Thanks for your advice, G. Robert

I'll be towing a 2002 Mini Cooper -- automatic transmission -- front wheels up on a tow dolly with surge brakes. I have a 35-foot Class A motorhome. First, is there a formula used to calculate the drop length of a hitch, assuming a drop hitch is necessary? Next, I'm considering a dual hitch adpater with a 4-inch drop. The most bottom hitch for the tow dolly (assuming 4-inch drop is what I need), while the upper hitch will be used to attach a Reese 4-bike carrier. The Mini will have a Thule roof rack, but I will be using it for my cargo carrier (Excursion Model). Also, RV ladder bike carriers only transport 2 bikes. Any RVers out there currently use a dual hitch system with similiar applications? Can this be done? Thanks, Robert (gmoreno)

A 1/2 +/- hours drive east from Big Bend is a sleepy ghost town that has resurrected itself....called "Terlingua." Great eats and sights. Think of this town as a hybrid between Sedona, AZ and Santa Fe, N.M. but smaller. ...here's link to the town website to help you decided if it is worth exploring. Oh yea, huge gala for Chili Cook-off once a year. Type in Terlingua Texas on your Google search bar and review some of the hits that you get. You might get a better flavor of Terlingua. http://www.historic-terlingua.com/historic...hostown_001.htm You can also go tubing down the large basin of the Rio Grande, and launch off at Terlingua. There are guides and such that you can find at Terlingua that take and pick you up. Water flows very slow, so it's not like shooting a Cat 4 rapid down the Colorado River. Good luck! gmoreno (Robert)

Thanks everyone for your answers. Indeed I'll purchase a dolly with brakes and purchase some magnet lights to place on top of the mini. Looking to find a dolly in the "used" arena. Price range here in the Boston area for something decent starts at around $750 (used) and of course, new, top out at about $2,000. I've hit craigslist and ebay. I've performed some google searches as well. As always, you usually, get what you paid for, but I'm still thinking I can find something in the $500 price range. Leads from any readers will be helpful. Also, is there a way to test the integrity of either brake system if I find a used dolly? Thanks, Robert

We are a young family, first timers to RVing and, know very little about towing. We will be towing my wife's 2002 Mini Cooper. The Mini Cooper dealer and owner's manual state front wheels up (Cooper is a CVT). Living in New England, we will be traveling to Canada, as well as the states. I'd like some clarification on the topic of brakes needed in Canada when towing and, if brakes are necessary on your tow dolly when traveling in the states. I'd also like some input on electric vs. plunger brake system. First, I understand that if you tow in Canada, Canadian law mandates that your tow dolly must have brakes. Is this correct? What about tow lights on the Mini-cooper? Plunger or electric? Same questions for towing in the states. Next, can you back-up your rig using a plunger brake system, or will the plunger brake activate, sensing the pressure from the rig pushing against the curb weight of the Mini cooper? I know I'll need a brake controller for the electric brake tow dolly. Nonetheless, can you back up a rig with either system? Finally, some additional info some readers might need to know to better answer my questions. Class A motorhome (gas, 35') with 4-pin set-up. Ford Triton V-10 engine, with 5,500 lbs. towing capacity. Cooper GVW 2315 lbs. Thanks, Robert