five
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Posts posted by five
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That's okay because your batteries are being charged by the engine when driving....at least mine are.
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Richard...I do have a wiring diagram, I'll have to check it out.Carl...pretty close, no dishwasher, 2 burner induction cooktop, we also have an Insta Hot Water dispenser (which stays unplugged when cutting it close on L1 amps)...and of course the AH electric element on L2 and the engine pre heat on L1. -
F438921...when going down the road, if not very very cold, leave the AH off, but call for heat from your thermostat. The engine heated coolant will run the AH without burning any diesel. When stopping for the night, and have power, your AH will run as long as you need it. Don't know how long it will run if you are running off batteries.
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17 hours ago, wajames said:Do as I used to do, run an extension cord out the window to run a heater. A small towel in the sliding window will seal the gap. Now... I just move to a warmer climate.
That's a good idea, I run my Laskos like that when I can. This year, even the "warmer climate" was cold!
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When really cold, I found the AH will not keep it real warm on the road with out turning the burner on. Yes, the engine is making hot water, but it can't over come the very cold outside temps. Another alternative is to run the generator and turn on a couple of portable heaters and the floor heat....if you have it.
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lenp...
Read my first post. There is no doubt the inverter on L1 is the limiting factor. I know what AC outlet is on what line and what line each built in appliance is on. I can watch my Power Control System, Central Monitor Panel, and see the amps on each line change when an AC appliance comes on or goes off by itself (AH electric element) or I turn on or shut off an appliance (coffee pot/toaster). Line 1 trips the circuit breaker any time 30 amps are exceeded, I don't see how you think I can exceed 30 amps on that line...any suggestions would be appreciated. Line two is good for 50 amps. Many of the high draw electrical appliances are on L2, such as the AH heat, heat pump, one floor heater, air conditioners two and three, and engine pre heat. This is only a problem in the winter. -
2 hours ago, kaypsmith said:If the engineer that designs the chassis is worth his salt, this is where the pivot point should be. Not always so, because of the design, but halfway between is the best place to put the pivot point, if designed this way, it takes half the drag off of the tag assembly at maximum turn radius, which in turn helps to relieve undue stress on the tag assembly, which is the major cause of those breaks that happen in some tag assemblies
I can't speak for anybody else, but in a turn, I use the "Tag Dump" switch that removes the weight from the tag. So the pivot point will be the dually wheels with the tag wheels dragging.
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6 hours ago, wajames said:The MS2812 is a 23 amp continuous current box - it can provide 3900 watts (~30 amps) momentary. Toaster, Heater, Coffee pot could present an overload condition in any event. You may need to find a non-inverted outlet to run the Lasko heater which by itself it is close to half available (12 amps) on your inverter. Such is RV life.
I'm a little confused when you say you have 2 inverters: "...the normal AC set up is like Carl's...two separate sets of 4 each 6 Volt AGMs each with a PSW inv/charger" << Is this what you have? It likely is what you want and move half your inverted outlets to inverter #2.
Sorry for the confusion....I don't have two inverters, I have 8 each 6 volt AGMs and one PSW inv/charger. Most Amer Coaches, have two separate sets of 4 each 6 volt AGMs each with a PSW inv/charger.
Brett.....the ACs are wired with #1 on L1 and #2 and #3 on L2.
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The answer to any wheelbase questions depends upon who you ask. American Coach measures from the front axle to half way between the dually wheel axle and the tag axle. Freightliner says the wheelbase IS (no doubt in their mind) between the front axle and the dually axle. From reading the earlier posts so far it appears Spartan and Entegra both also have different interpretations of "wheel base." To make an apples to apples comparison, you'll have to find out which measurement that particular model uses.
A steerable tag advertises a considerable decease in turning radius. I find that hard to believe. At a GW of 49k, I think my two tag wheels are going to go where the two sets of duallies wheels take them...especially with the weight taken off of them in the turn by the "Tag Dump" switch. As for turning radius, my coach has a 60 degree "steering angle."
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Carl, I'd love to get 45 amps out of L1 that goes through the inverter. On this recent trip, we tripped the inverter circuit breaker twice on the same day until we got in the habit of monitoring the amps on L1 on the Power Control System Monitor before turning on anything else on that line....toaster, coffee pot, Lasko heater, etc.
Rich, the electrical system consists of:
- 8 each 6 volt AGM batteries.
- One pure sine wave inverter/charger (2,800 watts)....the normal AC set up is like Carl's...two separate sets of 4 each 6 Volt AGMs each with a PSW inv/charger.
- A Magnum Energy Remote Control, 2812.
- Power Control System, Central Monitor Pane.
- Solar power charge panel, 95 watts.
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8 hours ago, desertdeals69 said:My yearly budget is zero. I fix what breaks when it happens.
Same here. If it breaks, you're going to have to fix it (or quit going) regardless of the ''budget." I see no point in a budget.
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For nearly a month we have been out and about in our MH. As all know, it’s been rather brisk to say the least. We saw temps in the teens and traveled in the low 20s. When “camped,” and I use that term loosely, in these temps, in an all electric coach, we needed all the “amps” available. We all know that 50 amps really means two 50 amp lines.
However, American Coach (don’t know about other manufacturers) wires their coaches so all electric appliances on Line 1 go through the inverter, all those on Line 2 do not. As a result of that wiring, Line 1 can handle only 30 amps, even if the inverter is not on. Any attempt to add more than 30 amps to Line 1 will result in the inverter circuit breaker tripping. So, I don’t really have two 50 amp lines, in actuality, I have a 30 amp line and a 50 amp line.
What can I do in the way of changing the system, either rewiring or added a circuit breaker, to give me back the 20 amps I’m losing to the manner in which the coach is wired?
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Are you positive it's the Allison? I had a mystery leak in a previous coach, it turned out to be the Aqua Hot. There are two lines with coolant going to every vent in the coach.
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Camping without a toad depends on what type "camping" you do and how long you stay in one place. We just spent nearly four weeks in one spot at one campground. It's either have a toad, or break camp everyday to go out and about to sight see, eat, do tourist things, etc. For us, a toad is mandatory.
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Anybody who has a block heater and does not use it...in this weather....is not playing with a full deck. My Cummins ISL said to use it if 40 or lower, this DD 13 said to use if 50 or below...and I do. When we left the first week in Jan, the temp was in the high teens, the block heat was on for about five hours (I set a timer) before I started it and the coolant was 80 degrees.
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20 hours ago, wolfe10 said:Kind of dependent on where it is placed. Not many will look in the engineroom, or on a place on a frame rail that is not visible.
It's on the inside of a U shaped frame rail.
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I have a Blue Ox Patriot 2. Easy in, easy out and if I change toads (or MHs) it's an easy switch.
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The awning auto retract is fine if you are in a place where there are no wind gusts. If in a gusty location with the awning out...the auto retract senses the gust and starts the retraction. However, it's already too late and your awning might already be blown over the coach or into the next county.
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On 1/22/2018 at 2:57 PM, tngleim said:....The coach has a door handle keyless entry and with no house power, it does not work, hence I cannot get into the coach to even try to start it....
I assume by "keyless entry" that means you can use a fob or manually with a key...that's how mine works. Surely Beaver didn't build a coach without a key. However, I don't trust the fob, and keep a set of spare door keys in the toad and another set in a magnetized container under the MH.
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Every summer, I totally empty the basement. It's amazing the stuff that is in there that:
- I've totally forgotten about.
- Have previously looked for and couldn't find.
- Don't need.
- Have several duplicate items.
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Cruiser, at a recent forum, we were informed by a tire guru (NOT a Michelin guy) that if Michelins sit for a long time, they will show very thin spider type surface cracks. He stated these cracks are from the substance Michelin puts in their tires to prolong their life. I noticed this on my coach, and once driven, the cracks disappeared. Take your coach out and drive it....see if the cracks go away before purchasing new tires.
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15 hours ago, manholt said:FIVE. It had to have been after 2010, I have what's left of my DS, in a pitted mess on the front...been quoted over $3k twice to remove it, by 2 very reputable company's. Have asked if they use steam, been told that works fine on 3M film, not DS!
The Allegiance was an 09 made in the spring of 08. When we sold it in June 15, the DS was still good. I did try to take care of it, routinely put Protect All or something similar on it.
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On 7/17/2014 at 6:50 AM, hermanmullins said:OK, folks lets get back to the original question. "A 30 amp RV outlet is 110 volts only NOT 220 volts." Gayle please pass this on to your electrician.
Herman
Agree. There have been quite a few instances where sticks and bricks electrician has caused serious problems when wiring for an RV. I'd be sure the electrician understands what how our systems are wired.
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23 hours ago, Keigm said:I have a 2014 Mountain Aire all electric coach. It has 8 AGM House Batteries and a 2800 watt inverter. I’m a neophyte regarding solar and wondering about what it would take to augment my system with solar panels.
Any ideas as to where to go to learn more about this?
I have the same set up with batteries and inv/charger. My solar system was put in by AC, you might call Newmar, they should be able to tell you how to set it up or send you a diagram. However, as Brett noted, we are all electric and very seldom dry camp, so I don't know how much good it does.
How many of you store your rig in a temperature controlled environment?
in General Discussion
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I'm in a covered/locked 50' x 20' space with power....not temp controlled, for $150/month. I don't want my coach sitting out in the snow/sleet (that doesn't happen very often), or the 100 heat in the summer. My building has four spaces, each individually secured and each has an individually locked door. No guard per se, but one of the owner's employees lives next to the road that leads to my storage as well a 120 indoor boat storage facility. The entire facility is locked with 24/7 access. It's owned by a boat dealer.