wolfe10
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Posts posted by wolfe10
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That brings up another question. I have always connected to the campground sewer when we get there and leave the gray water line open till I need to empty the black tank. Is this not good?Many follow the same practice-- leave gray open to drain and only drain black when 3/4 or more full.
A slight improvement IF gray and black share the same sewer hose is to leave both valves closed. Drain black first. Then raise the sewer hose (now empty) to tank level and with the black valve still open, open the gray valve. What you are doing is sending a massive rush of water from gray to black. That helps dislodge any solids. As soon as you hear the rush of water subside, just lower the hose and let it drain as always.
And always put a couple of gallons of water through the toilet with the valves open and then after closed a couple more gallons.
Obviously, if you are going through a lot of gray (wash machine, etc) leave the gray open.
Brett Wolfe
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Most folks know that the critical part of leveling the rig is to get the refrigerator level. If left running out of level, it can actually fail catastrophically, requiring replacement. My question is - has anyone ever talked to the refrigerator manufacturers and learned WHERE n the refrigerator to sit your level? I know many rigs have built-in levels, but if the frige was installed a few degrees askew, those levels are worth nothing. I have been unable to pry this info from Dometic - has anyone ever received a mfr's answer?????No refrigerator is harmed if out of level if kept within 3 degrees, some allow up to 6 degrees out of level in one plane.
With that said, the floor of your motorhome makes the best place to put a large carpenter's level and "calibrate" the jack or air leveling system sensor. Yes, this assumes that the floor of the coach and platform upon which the refrigerator is mounted are parallel with each other. If mounted in a slide and not parallel with the floor (and most mounted in slides ARE parallel), then, perhaps tweak the sensor to slightly favor the refrigerator plane.
So refrigerators are sensitive to being run well out of level, but this is not something to get carried away with. And they can be stored (refrigerator OFF) well out of level-- just level before you turn it on.
Brett Wolfe
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This is a procedure I used when we had a 99 Monaco Diplomat with good results.I tried a new way to clean my radiator A while back and it really got a lot of black gunk out. First let me say that
I have cleaned the radiator 2 to 3 times a year for the past 4 years. I used a 2 gallon garden sprayer the type with the wand and
fill with 1 gal of Simple Green, on the 99 dip I can raise the bed to get to the radiator, I first sprayed with water ( be careful not to
wet down the alternator) then soaked it real good with Simple Green, about a quart. Closed the engine cover, cranked the engine, opened the
engine cover and sprayed about another 2 qts of soap in the fan be careful with the wand don't get it in the fan, I don't think this would
need to be done every time), closed the engine hatch and run the engine up to about 1500 a couple times to get the soap thru the
radiator. I then shut the engine down and let it soak for 30 minutes. Washed the radiator with water restarted the engine and
washed with water some more, close the hatch run the engine up to about 1500, I did this a couple times. Shut the engine down and washed
from the rear. I was surprised at the black gunk that was between the CAC and Radiator. After testing I found that this method dropped my
Trans temp by about 10 deg in city driving and in hilly country on those +90 deg days according to the VMSpc program that I run on my laptop.
I did not use a pressure washer (but I think you could with the gentle nozzle), I used the regular water pressure 50# with my hose and spray nozzle.
Note be sure to rinse good to remove all simple green from the alum CAC and radiator.
Walt N Will
F191141
Walt,
I like a lot of the way you do it, but am concerned that the wait time, particularly if the CAC and radiator may be warm. This may allow the soap to dry on the metal. I would strongly recommend against doing that.
Now, if you continue to keep it wet, but not with so much water that you rinse out the soap, that is great.
And as you have found, with a SANDWICHED CAC/RADIATOR, you have to clean from the front (where the majority of the dirt is) and the back, since you don't want to use high enough water pressure to clean both from one direction as PSI high enough to go through the radiator, air gap and CAC would result in a high likelihood of bending the fins.
Brett Wolfe
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Please help us we purchased a used 2007 tow dolly that came from Northern Tool. We wanted to tow our new 2009 Toyota Matrix, but halfway up the the ramps the front end bottoms out. How can we overcome this problem? Is there an easy way out? The dolly is actually an acme eze tow dolly.Gary
Gary,
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Have you tried putting 2"X6" boards over the lower part of the ramp (probably have to bolt them in place with wing nuts so they stay in place while you drive up)?
Depending on where you place them and how long they are, they will change your approach angle. And if 2" doesn't give you enough change, what about two of them?
Brett Wolfe
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I really appreciate your input Brett. We never intend to dry camp. It is good to know we can for a couple of days if we need to. The only time I put water in the gray tank is to flush the line after emptying the black tank. Looks like I'll be doing that more often. Thanks again, ccmsmIf you truly do not use the gray tank (no showers or dish washing), then you may have some options based on how your gray and black tanks combine at the drain AND IF BOTH TANKS ARE AT THE SAME LEVEL IN THE COACH.
If both have tank valves are plumbed into a single sewer hose bib, it may be that you could install another valve downstream of the black and gray valves but upstream of where the sewer hose attaches. Leave this new valve closed. Open the two upstream valves. Now both tanks share in your "usable capacity" of 35 plus 35 gallons. Most actually use more shower plus kitchen sink than toilet plus head sink, but it really doesn't matter. If another arrangement works better for you, GO FOR IT.
Again, your coach's tank placement (side by side vs one on top of the other) and valve arrangement will determine if this could work for you.
Brett Wolfe
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In my "crawl around" I noticed that the wires from the Allison input side speed sensor were very close to the exhaust pipe on the Cummins C engine. Because the sensor wires were not tightly secured, their jacket had melted from contact with the exhaust pipe. Much more driving WOULD have melted the sensor wires together and led to a transmission fault.
Just a heads up -- check transmission external wiring BEFORE concluding you have some big or expensive issue.
Brett Wolfe
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The tanks are 45 gallons each with a 75-gallon fresh water tank. It is a 2008 38' Georgetown motorhome. I would like for info like that to show up on my post like yours and other members but I haven't figured out how yet. I really appreciate all the info I get from this forum. Thanks to all who share their knowledge. ccmsmAgain, I am a little surprised that the toilet plus bathroom sink fills its 45 gallon tank faster than the shower and kitchen sink fill their 45 gallon tank.
Normally that small a gray tank fills very quickly. For comparison, our coach has 88 gallons potable, 40 black and 85 gray. Black is toilet only. It means that I KNOW I will not overflow black or gray while dry camping before running out of potable water.
Said another way, with those small black and gray tanks, the toilet plus bathroom sink on one and shower and kitchen sink on the other is better balanced than toilet alone on black and everything else on the other.
If this becomes an issue for you, see if you have room for a larger tank.
Brett Wolfe
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So, what size are your GRAY and BLACK tanks?
A couple of days to fill a black tank, even including sink, is REALLY fast.
Brett Wolfe
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We recently made a second trip in our motorhome. I discovered that the bathroom sink is draining into the black tank. The way I discovered this was running water into the gray tank before I emptied the black tank. When I flushed the commode it ran over. I had read about this happening years ago in the trailer life magazine. I contacted the manufacturer and they said the RVIA allowed them to run one gray water line into the black water tank as long as it wasn't the shower. Has anyone else had this happen to them? ccmsmActually, there IS some merit to the sink draining into the black tank. Certainly it was done to simplify plumbing. And most of us fill the gray tank a LOT faster than the black. So you could actually dry camp longer with that arrangement unless the black tank is a lot smaller. It also doesn't hurt to add more water (vs solids) to the black tank-- makes draining easier.
How long did it take you to fill the black tank?
Brett Wolfe
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I would not do it myself. Way back in the hey-days I did a few cars that way, but the technology has changed and there are specific pressures that need to be adhered to, so if you don't have the gauges and the knowledge, let a professional do it for you.I have been fighting my dash air for a year now. The last time it was in Freightliner they found an "o" ring that had a small leak. That was the last of my 1 year warranty, and now I'm on extended. It still is blowing warmer than desired air. I placed a thermometer in the vent and it will creep up to 60 degrees. I'm waiting to put it in a good AC shop and get it fixed properly.
Good advice, Wayne.
Brett Wolfe
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It is not a difficult DIY task to change one's own oil. The savings is at least 50%. The hard part is finding a container that will hold 5 gallons of oil all at once.Having said that, I occasionally use Wal-Mart when I am on the road without the proper environmental protections. Most of the newer stores have bays that will accommodate a motorhome. They will not have your filter, but you can buy it somewhere else and give it to them. You can pick from the brands of oil they carry in the store. It too is a less expensive method of getting an oil change.
I will add that in addition to just changing the oil and filter, you need to have the chassis lubed (greased), SCA level in coolant tested, etc. Your chassis manual is your best source for what needs to be done.
BEST answer is to have your own grease gun (so same grease is used each time). AND, make 10 copies of your chassis grease zerk location diagram. Hand one to the tech actually doing the job, not the service adviser. Make sure he knows that this is his copy to take under there and get dirty and throw away when he is finished. Showing him the diagram in your manual DOES NOT WORK. He is not likely to take it under the coach and take a chance on getting it dirty!
Brett Wolfe
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With the gage marked, I have found that the statement "And economy mode should be programmed to do just that-- shift down when you are heavy into the throttle and RPM drops to 1,440 or a little above)" doesn't always happen. I am wondering if there is a terrain variable. Meaning that on steeper grades, you will need to monitor RPM and manually shift before it drops below that magic number.No, the Allison ECU can not sense grades, only RPM (both output and engine /input) and throttle position.
So at the same throttle position it SHOULD hold that gear down to the same RPM each time with that RPM being different in regular vs economy mode.
BUT, if you were at, say 85% throttle vs 100% throttle, it SHOULD be different.
Brett Wolfe
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I have a friend who is a certified diesel mechanic working for a major airport where there is a lot of heavy equipment. Much of their equipment may sit idle for extended periods. They always keep the tanks full, but another trick is to use a small portable compressor to bubble some air into the tanks on occasion. This is supposedly a mold prevention issue. Any comments?First, with a full tank, the amount of air in the tank will be limited.
Will it help to replace that air in the tank with DRY air-- well it sure won't hurt.
BUT, remember with temperature swings every day, the air "changes itself". Each day as the temperatures rise, the air expands. Since it is "trapped" in the tank, it flows out the tank vent (unlike gasoline tanks, diesel tanks ARE vented). Each night as temperatures fall outside air is drawn back into the tank. So like it or not, the air is constantly "changing". The temperature swing dictates how much moves in and out each "day cycle".
You can do this experiment to see how this works. Take a gallon plastic milk jug. Cap it tightly. Put it in the freezer. After a couple of hours take it out and remove the lid. It will suck IN air-- just like your tank. If made of thin plastic, the sides of the jug may even be sucked in when you remove it from the freezer. You could also place it in the freezer with the lid off. Cap it. Remove it and place in sink of warm water. Remove the lid and feel the OUT-RUSH of air. Kind of takes you back to Mr Wizard doesn't it!
This is the main reason for storing with full fuel tank-- to minimize the air exchange. Why-- because the air that is sucked back into the tank on cold nights is often at the DEW POINT and it introduces moisture to the tank.
Bottom line, "changing the air" in the tank sure doesn't hurt anything, but I suspect it is more of a "feel good" than significant improvement. Now, if the tank were only 1/2 full, introducing "dry air" would be more of an advantage. But, none of us do that DO WE?!!!
Brett Wolfe
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Since buying our 07 Winnebago Sightseer on the Ford F-53 chassis, I've been perplexed by one odd thing. The GCVWR is 26,000 and the GVWR is 20,500 thats a difference of 5,500lbs. The motorhome comes equipped with a class III hitch rated at 5000. This leaves 500 lbs of towing capability in limbo land. I'd like to be able to tow my 07 Chevy Silverado 4wd, but it weighs in at about 5100lbs. I've weighed the loaded motorhome and can hardly imagine getting within 500lbs of the GVWR, but I can't bring myself to testing the hitch past the rating. Has anyone else dealt with this, and where can you find a hitch and someone to install it??
Short answer is that the "weakest link" dictates capacity. It could be the hitch, frame or frame extension, rear axle, brakes, transmission, etc.
Winnebago and Ford would both need to be consulted to verify capacity/determine what if anything can be modified to increase it to fit your needs.
Again, WEAKEST LINK DICTATES.
Brett Wolfe
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Ouch......Today I toad our Subaru nearly 50 miles with the parking brake on......I'm lucky that I only stretched the Brake cable..Have you had your rear brakes inspected to VERIFY that no brake damage was done. Hard to believe they weren't severely overheated.
Brett Wolfe
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Here is another thread right here with some good advice on the same subject:
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It's not all that hard. You do have to crawl around a bit to get to it though. Most of the current crop of air filters are sealed canister units. You simply loosen up the two worm drive hose clamps, release the retaining clamps, and drop the old filter out. I find that the spring loaded retaining clamps can be stiff to move so when they finally snap over center they can nail your finger so gloves is a good idea. Once the hose clamps are loose, stick a screwdriver in the hose to unstick it from the metal tubing. Then drop the unit out.To reinstall it helps to spray a bit of silicone inside the hoses and they'll slip over the tubing much easier. Once you have it installed it's a good idea to reset the filter restriction indicator and run the engine. Be sure to rev it up to full RPM for a while to maximize airflow through the filter. Then shut it down and go back to check the vacuum reading on the air filter restriction indicator. Air filters are designed to be replaced when the restriction in them exceeds 15" of vacuum. But, every system will have a given restriction with a new filter installed. This will vary from coach to coach. You need to add 15" to that baseline. In my case my baseline is 6" of vacuum with a new filter. So, when my indicator reaches 21" (15 + 6 = 21) it's time to change the filter. Most manufactureres also recommend changing the filter every two years regardless of it's condition. That's because the paper filter element gets weal after a while. Running humid air through the filter hastens this while dry air lengthens the life of the filter so manufacturers just average it out at a 2 year recommendation. If the paper element fails you'll suck dirt into the engine that will get very expensive so being cheap at this time is not a good idea.
Mark,
A good write-up.
I would differ on a couple of points. It is unlikely that you can rev the engine in neutral and see maximum air filter restriction. Max air flow is at high RPM (which you could do in neutral) but also with the turbo fully spooled up for long enough to draw maximum vacuum in the pre-turbo intake. In neutral, the turbo will START to spool up, but the engine will reach max RPM well before max boost is sustained long enough to give an accurate reading.
BETTER, is to drive it (including one zero to 60 at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and THEN record new air filter restriction reading. As you point out, having a baseline reading is a REALLY GOOD IDEA.
And remember, the air filter minder reads TOTAL system restriction-- could be the opening in the side of the coach is too small, hose from there to air filter has too many bends in it and is corrugated, the air filter itself is too small and hose from filter to turbo restrictive. So, with more restrictive systems one will not be able to experience a 15" WC increase in restriction from baseline without exceeding the engine manufacturer's max specification.
Reality-- if you replace your air filter every 3 years, unless you live in a really dusty environment/drive dirt roads, you SHOULD be OK. And absolutely, moisture and time break down air filter elements-- they are made of paper. So replacing based on time IS highly recommended.
And if your system does show restriction with a new filter, don't hesitate to improve it! Many chassis are shipped to coach makers with a long corrugated hose to go from filter to side of coach. In many cases the coach builder mounts the air intake on the side of the coach such that hose is WAY longer than it needs to be and cutting a foot or more from the hose gives better air flow. Costs nothing, but gives more air. And you can not get too much air to a diesel.
Brett Wolfe
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Thanks Brett for the information, I did have #2 diesel in the coach but now have #1 I also put a stabilizer in. I have a hydraulic as well as air leveling system I just wasn't sure about the hydraulic jacks in the extreme cold. You were right about the bonding. I was a firefighter for 32 yrs. and this coach is a real pleasure to drive. Thank- you for your time and patients I'm sure you have answered this question many times. I am still reading the manual, its like a large phone book.You might check with the manufacturer of your jacks in terms of their use in extreme cold weather. If HWH, I know they are in Iowa, so expect they KNOW what cold temps do to their jacks.
Look forward to your getting down south where you can enjoy the coach.
Brett Wolfe
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Air leaking from the air suspension is quite normal over that time period and will likely cause no harm. Your chassis manual should address this, including how to store your coach for long periods of time.
Do you have jacks or just air leveling? If jacks, consider leaving them deployed when storing it. We have done that since 1993 with our coach with HWH jacks-- no problems. Again, your coach owners manual should have a suggestion on this.
And you do not need to drive the coach as frequently as once a week to keep the machinery up. In your reasonably dry climate, I would suspect once a month would be adequate. And hopefully, you will have one "nice day" a month to take your baby out to play. Now, if this is a bonding issue for YOU, I completely understand!
If you are doing this weekly just to keep the batteries up, if you don't have access to shore power, might consider solar or some other means of keeping battery voltage up. If you are on shore power and have a newer high end charger or inverter-charger, read it's owners manual on programming it. Many DO allow you to tell your charger the ambient temperature range. That way it will automatically raise voltage to more suitable values for REALLY cold temps.
And when you do start it for a drive, you are doing it right to run it long enough that the engine OIL (not just coolant) gets up to operating temperatures. We are in Texas with milder climates, so 30 miles is all I have to drive mine to get everything up to temps.
If you filled up with diesel this summer/early fall, it may be SUMMER BLEND diesel. You will absolutely need to add the appropriate amount of additive to "reformulate" your fuel for winter blend (#1 diesel added to #2 diesel) SO YOUR FUEL DOESN'T GEL!
Also, be sure to store with the diesel tank topped off to reduce condensation . Might read this topic here on the FMCA Forum: http://community.fmca.com/index.php?showtopic=661&hl=.
And if you are not going to burn that tank of diesel within 3 months I would also add a BIOCIDE to eliminate the changes of algae growth.
Brett Wolfe
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10/2/09 Update: The final cause written up on the invoice: "Cylinder Block Conn Rod Bolt/Capscrew Misassembled" "#4 Rod Cap Bolt fell out and was found in the Oil pan. The Rod broke the block" The list of damage goes on for a paragraph. I will paraphase the worst items identified: " Head, turbo, upper and lower gasket sets, Cam damaged, 2 tappets, 2 pushtubes, 3 injectors, .... Lube pump, oil cooler, various soft plugs, nuts and bolts. Cummins invoiced itself $11,649 Parts + $5490 Labor.Thank God for warranties!!!
As Tom said, there is nothing you could have done to prevent damage from an improperly torqued or defective connecting rod bolt.
I am surprised the engine made it that many miles before failure.
Glad to hear you are about to get back on the road.
Brett Wolfe
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We were headed home today on Southbound I-45 and around FM 1969 or 2351 there was a Foretravel on the shoulder with it's emergency flashers going.Was that you?
Earlene was driving and we had just moved to the left lane to pass and could not get over to stop and render and words of help.
Wasn't me. Yes, I do have a Foretravel, and yes, we live off the Gulf Fwy (I-45), but my baby is happily resting in it's garage.
And, I know it hasn't run away from home, because I was over there today replacing belts. And I KNOW I locked the garage!
Yes, I know it wants to go play, but we are finishing repairs on our LAST ROOM damaged by Hurricane Ike.
Brett Wolfe
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So, over the long haul, is it ok to keep the refrigerator running on shore power while motorhome is stored, say for 3 to 4 weeks between trips, or should we shut it off for those periods between trips. It is nice not to have to load and unload refrigerator every time but if that could shorten the life of unit, it might not be worth it. Any thoughts???John,
There are several things working to shorten the life of your refrigerator. The more of them you address, the longer it will likely live.
Cooling system rust through. In a humid climate, less condensation forms on the metal coils and therefore less rust if the unit is ON (coils stay well above the dew point).
Rust in flue and burner is reduced for the same reason if the unit is ON.
Insect nests in burner tube, flue and even the open areas of the cooling unit are discouraged if the unit is ON.
There are no moving parts in an absorption refrigerator, so you are not "wearing anything out" by leaving it ON.
Conclusion, particularly if stored in a humid climate is leave it ON.
Our original Dometic installed by Foretravel in 1992 finally died (cooling unit leak) early this year after running continuously for over 16 years.
If you live in and store it in the desert, or at a place where you don't want to leave it on, be sure to open the freezer and refrigerator doors and if for a long time, get some fine-mesh nylon screen and cover the roof and side vents to keep insects out. Do NOT leave the fine-mesh screen on when running, it really reduces air flow that is necessary for proper refrigerator function.
Brett Wolfe
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Thanks so much for your timely reply. As I'm sure most readers understand we are both excited and somewhat fearful as we plan our first trip south for the winter. The basement furnace is fueled by propane. The roof is rubber so we will pray that the snow doesn't fall early this year like it did last year. If anyone else out there has advice for our first snowbird trip it would be appreciated. Up until 6 weeks ago we were tent campers!!!Jo-Ann Gruber
2002 Newmar Dutch Star
So, where are you headed.
Tell us what kind of things ya'll (you will have to get used to "Southern Talk" if you want to enjoy the "weather an orange tree is happy with") like to do. Perhaps we can offer suggestions on places to visit. We will probably move the discussion to "Destinations" if we get many replies on "where to go," leaving the technical discussion here.
Brett Wolfe
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We are newbies and are preparing for our first trip to the warmth of the south this winter. We plan to leave northern Wisconsin after Christmas and have a number of questions. They are:1. Do we need to winterize the coach before leaving? (Yes, our Decembers include below-zero temperatures at times.) Or can we turn on our basement heater to keep the water lines from freezing until we leave?
2. Can we have the basement heater running while driving until we reach an area where there are no below-freezing temperatures?
3. How is snow best handled on the roof of the coach? No, we do not have a shelter for the coach yet, but plan to get one next year.
4. Can the coach furnace or heat pump be run while driving?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. If you think I have missed any important questions, please answer them for me.
Jo-Ann Gruber
2002 Newmar Dutch Star
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
I will address a couple of your questions.
Many DO winterize their coach and leave it winterized for the first day or so they are on the road headed for "Warm Country" leaving it winterized until they are south of the freezing temperatures. That way you KNOW you are OK. Just carry jugs of water to use for a day or two. If temps get REALLY cold, pour a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze in the holding tanks. With a little flexibility in your departure schedule, you can sure hit above freezing temps in 1.5-2 days of driving. Come on down to where the orange trees are happy (S Texas, Arizona or Florida).
And yes, the propane furnace (more efficient) or heat pump (from generator) can be used while traveling to keep you warm. If your basement heat is from the propane furnace, that is fine too. If from other source, let us know what you have-- some others are also safe while on the road. But, if you rely on it in well-below freezing temperatures, make sure it heats ALL plumbing including dump valves.
Getting the snow off the roof depends somewhat on what material covers the roof . You have to be a LOT more careful with rubber roofs than fiberglass. Best to start with a broom. If it is heavy snow, you may need one with stiff bristles.
Brett Wolfe
Worthless Info From Seajay
in Electrical
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Seajay,
That is such a well-told story, I hate to throw in a slight correction, but want readers to understand the use of the hydrometer.
What it measures with a HYDROMETER is not volts or amps, but SPECIFIC GRAVITY of the battery. To test, make sure batteries are FULLY CHARGED. Turn off the charger and turn on a small 12 VDC load (couple of lights) for a few minutes-- long enough to deplete the surface charge. This allows you to check the specific gravity of the battery cells fully charged, but with surface charge (anything over about 12.7 VDC is surface charge) removed.
You are looking for both absolute reading and max variation between cells. The instructions that come with the hydrometers go over this.
And, this test is for regular wet-cell batteries, not AGM or Gel batteries.
Brett Wolfe