wolfe10

1kgr@bellsouth.ne, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you checked for power to the outlet? A lamp, hair dryer as well as a voltmeter can tell you.

Oh, Carl, so early in your marriage to go into TIME OUT.

Please tell us what chassis you have Ford or Workhorse? What GVWR (should be a plaque in the coach with that information)? Have you weighted axles/coach? How many miles on it? Are shocks OE or have they been replaced?

UrbanHermit, VERY unusual for an inverter to be large enough to power a roof A/C. And, if it were, you would likely need an oversized alternator to keep up with it. The other appliances you mentions ARE usually shore, generator or inverter powered. The exception is on absorption refrigerators, most are not wired off the inverter-- they run on propane when no shore power or generator.

Said another way, have you verified that you have 120 VAC to the outlet that the TV is plugged into?

Go to https://www.fmca.com/rv-tires-discounts Sign in/register (free) Click on "How it works" under the tire brand you are interested in.

nurseruth90, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. A matter of risk vs reward. Everyone has different risk (hassle) vs reward (less chance of water intrusion, damage to topper, etc). We do exactly as you are suggesting-- close the slides if storms are predicted. Do the same if we are in the coach.

jvd357, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. This answer is on the FAQ on the webpage: https://www.fmca.com/fmca-rv-roadside-assistance Is there an age limit to tow my RV or vehicle? I own other vehicles besides my RV, is my Pick-up, Harley and if necessary a rental car covered? With the exception of “Classic” cars – show cars from the 70’s or earlier – there is no age limit to have your RV or vehicle towed, as long as the vehicle is able to be moved. Our program covers your RV and most other street legal vehicle(s) you own, rent, or borrow. Please contact SafeRide RV Club if you have additional questions regarding coverage for additional vehicles.

Linda said something about them throwing in a free lobotomy. Will just have to see.

That depends on the solar controller. If it has an AGM setting or one close to it (volts in Bulk, Absorption and Float) you are OK. Best advice is to compare those three stage recommendations for your brand batteries VS what is set/what you can set in your controller. Same for reprogramming your inverter/charger.

(Thankfully) no first hand knowledge of DEF fluid. But several points: 1. If it has been parked for 3 months, the DEF fluid may be a LOT older than 3 months. 2. Part of the degradation of DEF depends on the climate under which it was stored. Someone more familiar with DEF may know if there is a test or way that an owner can identify good/bad DEF.

A first simple test: disconnect the power connection to the fan. See if there is power to it with engine running, dash A/C on. Yes, will have to do this quickly (like having someone else start it, as no condenser fan means the A/C will fault to high pressure pretty quickly. Alternately, supply an independent source of 12 VDC to the fan to rule the fan in/out as cause.

Mike, Dual spacing is dependent on the WHEELS. Yes, the 295/75R22.5 is a common replacement for a 275/80R22.5. You do need to make sure the extra width in the front doesn't cause the tire to contact suspension or body components when at maximum cut-angle. Also, be aware that Continental DOES have the 275/80R22.5 as listed on the FMCA Tire Discount page for Continental tire. In fact, that is the brand and size we had on our 2003 Alpine.

Yes, a more common/accepted delta is intake air temperature (air return) which is usually at passenger's front bulkhead to center vent discharge temperature. 18-20 degrees F is considered good. Humidity will lower the delta, very dry air will raise it. Yes, it takes BTU's to condense that moisture that drains out the condensate hose.

Easy to find in any marine store.

Actually that is NOT good for an engine, particularly a diesel. Unless operated under load (like 25+ highway miles) you will not get the OIL up to operating temperature. All this will do is add moisture to the crankcase/engine.Yes, the engine could reach coolant operating temperature, but the oil will not be warm enough to get rid of the moisture that is a normal byproduct of combustion.

Consider zip tying one door key under the coach where you can reach it, but no one would think to look.

bkman99, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two choices: 1. Take it back and get one with longer lugs. 2. Buy a short cable and install an isolator post (or buss bar) where those three cables plus the new one from the isolator to ignition solenoid can be combined. Something like this: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--power-post-single-terminal-connectors--P009_273_004_010 They come in various post sized-- choose one that your current cable ends will just go over. Make sure that the solenoid is CONSTANT DUTY and rated for at least the same load as the OE-- here, a higher amp rating is better (more contact surface and/or better contact material).

You should be able to look under the coach at the drain while pulling the tank bleed lanyard to verify that ONLY clean, dry air is coming out. Water or oil indicates you are past due for dryer replacement/service. If white powder comes out, the dryer has FAILED and that desiccant powder is not into your air system.If it gets past the wet tank, assume all valves and components of your air brake and air suspension system are compromised. Yes, the air compressor will very likely be bolted to your engine. Which Cummins engine do you have-- others may be able to give you specific location.

Yes, the BIG IF is whether you have an AIR DRIER. If so, think of the tank drains as the "report card" for the health/condition of the air dryer. The air dryer's job is remove both water and oil (the oil lubes the compressor, so a minute amount gets into the air system). Dryers are normally serviced every three years or so. I alternate using a FACTORY (i.e. the factory that made the dryer, not a knock off or rebuilt by Bubba) dryer WITH just the filter(s). The reman dryer includes many wearing components such as valves, heater, etc.

Yup, a rear radiator DP is basically a huge "vacuum cleaner" of a fan sucking up all the dirt stirred up by 35'+ of coach moving down the road at hurricane velocity. Oh, and the air goes past the hot rear axle, not transmission and hot engine on its way to the "cooling package". And, if anything is leaking oil, that gets sucked up as well.

Using tape on the window holes is fine for diagnosing the noise. But only the correct covers should be used long-term, as blocking them can allow water to run down the inside walls!

Suspect it is vastly the rear ride height that affects driveline angle. What happens 35 or more feet forward of the rear axle is of much less import.

Coaches have GVWR plaques that give: GAWR GVWR Wheel and Tire size and PSI if each axle loaded to GAWR These federal mandates are not related to actual weights, but to limits. Actual weights could be well below or even above GAWR from the factory-- VERY little policing.

Do NOT be overly concerned about going slower than car traffic. Again, the loaded 18 wheelers will be going even slower. To be at your proper "equilibrium speed", you will NOT be the slowest vehicle on the road! You are driving a heavy vehicle, not a car!