wolfe10
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Posts posted by wolfe10
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How critical is it to, as the manual states with the Demco Kar KaddySS, to "stop every 50 miles to check the tire straps"? We are considering a dolly system for our Lexus RX but stopping every 50 miles or so would add a lot of time to a trip and on the highways res areas are not always that close together. They also say 55mph max which we could probably live with. We have a Coach House 232fs on the Ford 450 chassis.Any comments or experiences would be most appreciated
John Burke
Aiken SC
Let's start with the first question: Is your toad plus dolly within the towing rating and GCWR of your coach?
Before considering lengthening the interval I would visit with Demco and get a feel for both what you are checking (real details) and the reason for the 50 mile recommendation. Sometimes these recommendation ARE based on solid engineering/mechanical reasoning, sometimes on "lawyer speak". You deviate from the recommendations, you do assume some additional responsibility/liability.
And if you choose to deviate from the recommended safety check, I would only do it after repeated 50 mile checks show no issues and then perhaps start slowly lengthening the intervals. Note, I am not suggesting that you do extended the check intervals, only suggesting that it only be considered IF repeated 50 mile checks reveal no issues.
Sometimes asking other for advice on "what can I get away with" gets you just that "examples of what others have gotten away with". Not sure that is a reasonable basis for your doing it. For example, others may have different toads, are able to tension the straps tighter, only travel smooth roads, etc
Brett Wolfe
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Brett, One of my problems is I don't have a place where I can crawl under the coach. My storage building is rocks and it makes it difficult to lay on your back and move around. OH what I wouldn't give for a concrete floor.Thanks, Herman
Sounds like a mall parking lot has your name on it early on a Sunday morning! Bring those jack stands/wood blocks for safety stands.
Brett Wolfe
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racerss said that his lights are dim. If he is only looking at them when he has his toad hooked up, he may have too much draw. In the past I had a problem with the headlight switch on a 1 ton Ford Dualy. I was pulling tandum boat trailers at night with both of them hooked up. It was too much draw and I had to change out the switch several times. I then wired a plug direct from the battery with a 15 amp inline fuse for the tail lights. This solved the problem with dim lights and failing switches. Just a thought.Herman Mullins
A relay achieves the same thing (battery voltage to the bulbs and no heavy load on the switch while retaining all original switch operation.
Brett
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On a more serious note, when driving my coach I never seem to have a problem with air pressure when I stop and start my engine. But when I leave it overnight I always have to wait for the pressure to build up. Is this normal?Generally speaking, a leak that takes overnight to drain the pressure is within commercially acceptable standards.
But it is also large enough that you should be able to find it with a trusty soapy spray bottle.
Brett Wolfe
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Wayne,
Get one of your more agile neighbors to crawl around (not under the coach unless blocked up) and determine exactly what is leaking.
Most likely sources are a chafed area on the air line or a fitting that is loose.
We can't give you advice on whether it is safe to drive -- it depends on what line it is AND whether it could "blow out" and lock up the brakes.
Best answer is to repair where it is.
Will send you a Private Message.
Brett Wolfe
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Thanks for the help Brett,I'm still in rv electrical 101 mode. I don't have a digital voltmeter and will soon get one, in the mean time I do have a magnum energy 2012 console that shows voltage but I don't know if the reading is coming from the house batteries or the chassis batteries. I can't find a selection on the "me" console. Normally when shore connected, the voltage reading is 13.5 and when unconnected the voltage reads 12.8. The display seems to be quite steady.
How can I tell which battery bank, house or chassis, is being displayed?
Also I did notice one of my bedroom fluorescent lights sometimes will not fully turn on and other time it's just fine and it is on the same electrical circuit as the bathroom light.
Desmo
2008 charleston
I apologize for the lack of rv electrical knowledge and hope there is an electrical seminar at the upcoming INTO area rally on 1/20/2010.
The inverter/charger should be connected to the HOUSE battery bank. Therefore most remotes display house battery voltage.
But once you have the digital voltmeter (Santa can find them starting under $20 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) tracing can be very easy. If only the house battery bank is charged by your charger, the voltage of the remote display will be very close (assuming minimal 12 VDC things are running and inverter off) to that you find at the house batteries and different from chassis battery.
If both banks are charged by the charger, just leave it unplugged from shore power with some 120 VAC items on in the coach running from the inverter. Go back a couple of hours later and check voltage at the batteries. The one supplying the inverter will be lower than the one that has been "at rest".
Brett Wolfe
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I am looking to buy a new Allegro Bus and the dealer said that all the 2009 engines are committed and that all new orders will have the new engines with the urea injection system (a 10k hit to the price
). I was told there was an article in one of the 2009 issues of Family Motor Coaching magazine. Does anyone have that issue month or a link to that article?Tom Mohr
Tom,
The dealer may be correct, but you also might want to confirm this with Tiffin directly. The dealer's statement could mean "committed to a dealer or it could mean committed to a retail customer". Big difference.
If an engine is built before 1/1/10, it doesn't have to meet the new standards, since they go into effect for engines produces on or after 1/1/10.
I have no idea what supply of engines Tiffin has or if Cummins has already ceased production of "old style" engines, but certainly worth a call or two.
Brett Wolfe
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I too have flickering 12 volt dc incandescent lights in the bathroom when connected to shore power or not. The flicker occurs about every 12 seconds when for a an instant the light dims ever so slightly. Also, about 50% of the time I get a low voltage warning from my equalizer leveling system when retracting this can happen when using any power sources, shore, generator or battery.I've cleaned battery terminals, ground connections where ever I can find them.
Do all motorhomes have electrical ghost?
Desmo
2008 Charleston
Put a digital voltmeter on the house battery. See if voltage varies when this occurs. Some converters and chargers do cycle on and off. When off, battery voltage falls from charging levels until it comes back on.
If no variance in voltage at the battery and no variance in brightness of other incandescent lights, look for what else is powered on the same circuit as the bathroom lights. If no wiring schematic, pull the fuse and see what else doesn't work.
Brett Wolfe
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We recently purchased a 2009 Monaco Cayman. Regarding the oil change frequency on diesel engines, we have read and heard a wide range of recommendations. We are looking for answers to two questions. When should the oil be changed the first time? What should the mileage be between subsequent oil changes?Thank You,
Mike & Penny Paque
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Best source for a good beginning point is your engine owners manual.
And most RV'ers end up changing once a year, not based on miles.
If you feel your use of the motorhome is unusual (i.e. pull a 7,000 pound trailer, all very short trips, etc) let us know the unusual circumstances and perhaps we can fine tune the recommendations.
Also, call Allison (800 252 5283) with our transmission serial number. Until recently, they called for a main filter initial change at 5,000 miles. On very recent transmissions, that requirement has been eliminated.
Brett Wolfe
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I replaced mine twice, then separated the wiring, put the clearance and tail lights on a heavy duty toggle switch (on trucks they call this the ICC switch) and I haven't had a problem since.Consider using a HD relay with hot coming from battery, with the switch only providing the "signal" to close the relay. It leaves all functions the same, but allows a high-amp relay (still under $8) to give full voltage to headlights.
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A call to a friend with a National DP and some digging has revealed this list of dealers who are reported to have purchased parts from National.
I have not verified any of it, but it should give you a good starting place. Good hunting:
Giant RV
Corona, CA
888-564-5247
Ortega Manufacturing (he suggests you start here)
3960 Industrial Ave
Hemet, CA 92545
951-766-9363
Temecula Valley RV
Murrieat, CA
951-894-2347
Walt's RV Surplus
16616 Valley Rd
Fontana, CA 92335
909-823-0563
Brett Wolfe
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I have a 2002 Rexhall RexAir, double slides, a Ford chassis with a V-10. I went to turn on the headlights the other day and nothing happened. The running lights work, but not the headlights. I checked all the fuses and they all appear to be good. I checked voltage at the plug on the back of one of the lamp assemblies, and zero. There are several relays next to the fuse box, but they're not labeled. Any of you have a suggestion?Gary,
Best answer is to call Rexhall on Monday for a wiring diagram. Using a relay is the best way to power the headlights, as there is a voltage drop across the light switches at high amp loads/a limit to how many amps the switch can reliably handle. By using a relay, headlights will be brighter and the head light switch will last longer. So, hopefully that IS how yours is wired.
Have you verified that all the wires are still on the head light switch and that the one to the headlights has power when the switch is in that position?
Any way to trace back wiring from driver's side head light to relay?
Brett Wolfe
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There are provisions for reciprocal laws, the laws where you are licensed apply wherever you are. Drivers licenses are that way. If your drivers license is legal in the state where you are licensed, then it is legal anywhere in the US and Canada. States that require special licenses for driving large vehicles such as motor homes will not stop or hold you if your state doesn't require such a license. I don't think this kind of provision relates to weight and length restrictions but I could be wrong.Tom,
You are correct. There IS reciprocity of licensing requirements for drivers. So if you are licensed in your home state, you are OK in other states and Canada.
But, as you suggest, each state has its own weight, length., speed limits, etc. One is subject to the laws of the state one is driving in for these issues.
Brett Wolfe
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For those of you wanting to have your individual wheel position weights so you can know the proper PSI for your tires (and indeed if a corner is overweight and you need to move stuff around), I just got the 2010 Weighing Schedule from Walter C. Cannon, Executive Director, RV Safety & Education Foundation.
This is from their Website: http://www.rvsafety.com/custompage7509.html?pg=weighing
Start Date End Date Location Event/Place
1/6/2010 1/10/2010 FMCA WMHA Indio CA
1/25/2010 1/26/2010 Escapees Boot Camp Quartzite AZ
3/3/2010 3/6/2010 AZ Good Sams Yuma AZ
3/8/2010 3/12/2010 Gypsy Journal Yuma AZ
3/11/2010 3/14/2010 FL Winnie Gator Orlando FL
3/21/2010 3/25/2010 FMCA Winter Convention Albuquerque NM
4/13/2010 4/18/2010 NM Good Sams Hobbs NM
4/19/2010 4/23/2010 Freightliner Haulers Kerrville TX
5/15/2010 5/15/2010 Pikes Peak Traveland Rally Pikes Peak CO
5/27/2010 5/30/2010 FMCA GLASS Rally Berrien Springs MI
6/3/2010 6/6/2010 RVSEF Lifestyle, Education & Safety Conference Bowling Green KY
7/15/2010 7/18/2010 Heartland Owners Rally Nashville TN
7/22/2010 7/25/2010 The Rally Louisville KY
8/11/2010 8/14/2010 FMCA Summer Convention Redmond OR
8/30/2010 9/2/2010 Gypsy Journal Elkhart IN
9/8/2010 9/17/2010 Escapade Goshen IN
9/15/2010 9/19/2010 PA RV & Camping Show Hershey PA
10/14/2010 10/17/2010 Kings on the Road Rally Stone Mountain GA
Brett Wolfe
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Brett,Once Again, thanks for all the information. I have joined the catrvclub, and now am searching for heating problems with the motor and fuel mileage.
What kind of "heating problem"?
I will be doing the Maintenance Seminars at the Cat RV Club Rally in Amarillo in March (before FMCA Albuquerque). Look forward to meeting you if you are able to attend.
Brett Wolfe
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What kind of mileage could you expect to get with a Caterpillar 625-horsepower engine in a 45-foot Country Coach Affinity?I was told between 6.5 and 7.2, which I find hard to believe.
The only factual data I am aware of is from a survey of C15 Caterpillar owners on the Caterpillar RV Engine Owners Website (an FMCA Chapter).
Club Website: http://catrvclub.org/
Club Technical Website: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CATRVCLUB/
Survey results: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/CATRVC...veys?id=1992366
This is one of the Yahoo Group sites, so you must register, but no cost and no junk e-mails from it.
There were only three respondants. One reported 7.1-7.5, one reported 7.5-8.0 and one reported 8.0-8.5 MPG.
Brett Wolfe
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Hmmm, I think that sticker says 110 psi. I thought that was for the old tires. Can I put 110 in these tires if the sidewall says 95?OK, if tires are different than those on the GVWR tag, to come up with the recommended PSI based on each axle carrying its GAWR, take that axle weight rating and go to your tire manufacturer's inflation chart for the NEW tires.
For example, if Michelins, go to: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/...tion-tables.jsp
Again, this should be viewed as a TEMPORARY ANSWER until you actually weigh the coach.
Brett Wolfe
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The psi on the sidewall is 95. I have not been able to find a place to get the coach weighed around here.The 95 PSI on the sidewall is the correct pressure IF the tire is carrying its maximum allowable load.
Until you weigh it, another source for PSI is the GVWR tag near the driver's area. It will give PSI for axles loaded to their GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating),
And many truck stops, moving companies, grain elevators, etc all allow for axle weighing. But that assumes perfect left/right weight distribution, so individual wheel position weighing is far better. Then, using the heavier wheel position on each axle, go to the tire manufacturer's PSI/weight chart to determine the minimum PSI for all tires on that axle. I recommended adding 5 PSI as a safety margin to that minimum.
Brett Wolfe
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I'm new to the motor home community. I have been RVing for over 30 years, but we have always used a travel trailer, except for a couple of years in the 70s with a Class C. I will be flat towing a 2010 Toyota Corolla and know that the key must be in the "accessory" position and the manual transmission in neutral while being towed.1) Should I remove a fuse(s) while towing? What are the ramifications with the systems in the car (radio, clock, etc.).
--or--
2) Should I just live with the current draw with the key in the accessory position and run the car at the end of the day to recharge the battery?
I would appreciate any comments you might have on this topic.
Sam Smith
Sam,
Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
Best advice on towing is to start by reading the owners manual towing section very carefully. If questions, call Toyota.
Though someone may have a similar model, running changes are made that may make advice less than accurate for yours.
As an example, Ford changed the steering column in the Ford Focus between 2007 and 2008 . In 2007, you could/should tow with the key in the OFF position. Do that with a 2008 and the steering locks up!
Another option, particularly if you will be using an auxiliary brake in the toad is to run one additional wire from coach to toad to keep the battery charged while towing. Be sure BOTH ends of the wire are fused, as both ends will be hot. And if you will be leaving the coach to toad wiring connected overnight, a diode so the car battery does not try to charge the coach battery if you are boondocking.
Brett Wolfe
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Replace shocks if:
1 They are leaking (not just damp with oil, but leaking).
2. If the bushings (top and bottom) have any wear or play.
3. They are bent or otherwise physically damaged.
4. They do not control coach motion-- in addition to Tom's excellent advice, I find the easiest place to "test" shocks is over speed bumps at regular (slow) speeds. You can easily tell how many times the front and then the rear go up and down before stabilizing. Anything over 2 oscillations means they are shot. I like them to give better control-- so 1.5 is my maximum.
If they are OK per the above, I don't have any great expectations for the shocks to control side to side motion. YES, the help, but were you to make a shock stiff enough to substitute for HD sway bars, they would be VERY stiff (read that "uncomfortably stiff") in normal driving conditions. So, for excessive sway, start by verifying that all 8 of the sway bar end link bushings and main bushings are in good shape.
Also, some shocks (older pre-FSD Koni shocks) are adjustable. So adjusting them may be an alternative to replacement if everything but dampening is OK.
Brett Wolfe
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I have purchased a couple of compressors to put air in the RV tires. However, I returned them because they did not work. I would like one that I could carry with us in the coach. Could somone recommend one? I need a compressor that is small but powerful. We need 95 psi in all the tires.Welcome to the FMCA Forum.
What kind of coach/chassis do you have? Does it have an on-board air system?
And, as a side note, is the 95 PSI in all tires based on the tire manufacturer's recommendation for your actual weight? It is unusual that the fronts and rears would work out to the same PSI.
Brett Wolfe
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Do you know who made the slide mechanism? Many coach builders buy them vs make them.
And be careful here. Shear pins are just that-- meant to break before other (read more expensive) components are broken.
So other than in an emergency, I would not go with a stronger or substitute pin.
Brett Wolfe
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After having spent a LOT of money for a brand new, 2008 3 slide Coachmen Concorde Class B+, we immediately began to have issues with water leaks. The first one was a screw (during assembly) having punctured a plastic water line near the water pump. Apparently, the dealers don't fill the water and turn on the pumps to check for leaks before delivery. That problem solved, we now have begun to see leaks all through the coach. I have done my best to narrow down the problem and my opinion is that the type of clamps used by the manufacturers of these units may be inexpensive for them, but the result for the unsuspecting owner is that leaks are almost inevitable.The clamp is a one-time-use, metal, squeezed-into-place type which has no adjustment and to be removed has to literally be cut off with a dremel grinder. There must be a hundred of them on the coach and now the manifold behind the "water panel" on the outside of the coach where all the water connections are, seems to be leaking at 3 or 4 connections and soaking the carpet and wood under the bed.
Does anyone have any suggestions for solving this problem other than cutting off and replacing every clamp? I've seen a spray material advertised that is supposed to fix leaks. Anyone have experience with that?
First question: Does it leak when on pump pressure or only on shore water connection pressure? If only on shore water connection, do you have a pressure reducer between faucet and coach?
Brett Wolfe
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I live on a sloped street downwards facing, while I bring my motor home home to unload and clean it gets soaked if it rains through the air conditioner vents. If I am level this is not a problem. Is there a solution for this other than keeping the motorhome level. There is not way to level it on the street other than to park it somewhere other than in front of my house.Has anyone encountered this problem and have a solution? Is there a cover like the vent covers you can purchase with a rain senor or something?
Thanks for your help.
There is a gasket between the roof and A/C unit. Depending on age and condition, you MAY be able to tighten the 4 bolts (from the inside) that secure the lower unit of the A/C to the roof-top part of the A/C and compress the gasket. Do NOT crush this foam gasket. If tightening up a little does not do the trick, gasket replacement is not difficult (with two people) if you are safe working on the roof. And the gasket is not expensive.
Brett Wolfe
Allison Automatic Transmission Controls
in Engines
Posted · Report reply
There are TWO TOTALLY DIFFERENT "LET THE TRANSMISSION CHOOSE THE CORRECT GEAR" MODES/PROGRAMS in the Allison ECU which is the "electronic brain" controlling shifting and other functions.
In ECONOMY MODE, the transmission will not downshift even at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until the engine pulls down to peak torque RPM in some application and 200 RPM lower that "regular mode" in others.
In REGULAR MODE, the transmission WILL downshift much earlier (to maintain higher engine RPM).
ONLY at higher throttle positions is there any difference, so on flat ground you will NOT notice any difference (except accelerating from a stop IF you are at or close to wide open throttle).
It can make a BIG difference in rolling hills. If you are in rolling hills and regular mode (particularly with the cruise control on), it is common for the transmission to shift down to 5th on the uphill and back to 6th on the downhill. Repeat this process hundreds of times. In economy mode, you will stay in 6th gear unless the hill is so steep or so long that the engine can not pull it without dropping below peak torque RPM. If you can pull a hill in a higher gear (lower engine RPM) AND the engine does not overheat, THAT IS WHAT CATERPILLAR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE MOST ECONOMICAL WAY TO CLIMB A HILL with a modern turbo, after-cooled diesel engine.
If you know you will need a lower gear because of the steepness of the grade and/or are engine temperature is rising higher than thermostatically controlled temperature, if driving in economy mode, use the down arrow to drop a gear (this is what I do) or switch out of economy mode. Be sure to switch back into economy mode when past the steep section, or agree to pump extra fuel in the tank.
IF your engine begins to overheat, your HP/weight ratio is low OR if it irritates you to loose a few mph on a hill in the name of saving fuel, in the hills, by all means drive in regular mode.
It confuses me to hear people advocate driving in economy mode only on flat ground, as there is not 1% difference in shift RPM's between regular and economy mode on flat ground, excepting accelerating from a stop if you use WOT.
Every time you start the coach, the transmission is in regular mode. This is the default setting. IF you push the mode button, it goes to "economy mode" AND the light illuminates.
There is no "absolute" on how much difference in fuel economy driving in economy mode will have. On flat ground where you will be in 6th gear irrespective of what mode you are in, there will be ZERO difference. The MOST difference in mileage will be in rolling hills, where in regular mode, particularly if on cruise control you will start up a hill in 6th gear, go to WOT in 6th gear, downshift of 5th gear still at WOT (WHERE IT IS USING A LOT MORE FUEL). After the hill is crested, the transmission will up-shift to 6th, then likely coast a little in 6th gear (unless you are driving with the exhaust brake on-- if you are it then applies the exhaust brake AND downshifts TOWARD the pre-select gear which is generally either 2nd or 4th).And so on 6-5-6-5-6-5-6-5.......
A modern turbo inter-cooled diesel is much more efficient at low RPM high throttle settings. This is NOT my opinion. It is stated in just those words in the Cat Owner's Manual.
Note: In either mode, you are free (and welcome) to use the up and down arrows to PRO-ACTIVELY choose the correct gear. You can not screw anything up-- even if you down-arrow to 1st gear at 70mph, the transmission understands that you meant "please downshift to the next lower gear as soon as the engine RPM will not exceed the pre-set amount. Then downshift again when safe....."
By the same token, you can shift between regular and economy mode as often as you want with the transmission in any gear when you make the change.
OPINION: I drive in economy mode 99% of the time, including in REAL mountains, but use the up and down arrows to choose the proper gear. I use regular mode ONLY when I am willing to say, "I am willing to throw a lot of fuel away to gain a little performance." When passing on 2 lane roads, THIS IS the case.
Brett Wolfe