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wolfe10

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Posts posted by wolfe10

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Tom has you off to a good start. Make sure the lens and bulb are clean.

    Is this just tail lights (running lights) or is it stop lights as well?

    While in there, turn on the lights with the bulb removed and verify voltage. If not very close to battery voltage (around 14 VDC with engine running) you may have a problem with the 12 VDC positive or ground. If voltage is more than .5 VDC less than at battery, we can talk you through using a relay to get voltage back to where it should be for the lights themselves.

    You can also look at a higher-wattage bulb or for more $$ LCD lens packages.

    Brett Wolfe

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Thanx for your fast reply Brett. In answer to your questions, I do reset the GFI located in the bathroom after unplugging the refrigerator or icemaker and the power returns. Only the front part of the AC plugs are involved, none in the bedroom so no other circuits are effected. I have never re-torqued the 120 breaker box without power. Does that mean checking the switches with power off? It sounds like you think the problem may be to dampness in the elements located on the outside of the coach, if so, wouldn't most RV's have the same problem? Thanx again, Bill Schwessinger

    Bill,

    Given that you have to reset the GFI to restore power, the refrigerator is the likely cause of the GFI tripping (When the refrigerator/ice maker is not plugged in the GFI stays ON. And when the refrigerator/ice maker is plugged in it trips the GFI). Have you isolated it to the ice maker vs refrigerator?

    If refrigerator, the most common issue is a bad heating element. It could be nothing more than a mud dabber nest that is partically grounding the heating element to the flue. To diagnose: Disconnect the refrigerator 120 VAC. Remove the two leads from the heat element (part way up the flue). Use an ohm meter to check for any continuity between either wire and the metal of the flue. This should have no continuity.

    Brett Wolfe

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I am in the market for a new vehicle and it seems they order them only with household refrigerators. I only have experience with propane/electric models. We do a fair amount of dry camping usually less than a week but how long will batteries last without running the generator?

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    No secret recipes here.

    While dry camping, it is common (best economic use of generator without materially shortening battery life) to discharge a battery bank down to 50% and recharge to 85%. Repeat... Charge to 100% at least every 10 days.

    You will need to look at the electrical demand of the residential refrigerator along with all the other items you plan to run along with battery bank size (in amp-hrs) and see if it will work for you.

    WATTS is the easiest way to calculate this, as you don't have to convert from 12 VDC to 120 VAC. You do need to know that power you have to "invert" from 12 VDC to 120 VAC is only about 92% efficient.

    For most, an all-electric coach is great for being plugged in with occasional dry camping. For extended dry camping, a less electrically demanding option may be better. You have to determine what is best FOR YOUR USE.

    Brett Wolfe

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Good advice from Wolfe. My rig has 2x12 volt plus 12v engine batteries. We seldom, very seldom, dry camp. Perhaps a single overnight with a group, but then most time is spend outside and food is prepared outside, so little power is required. During our Tracks experience in Mexico we went 5 days without hookup, but, the batteries were purchased just before the trip, and we ran the generator for a couple of hours every day, and again we judiciously conserved electric power. Last year we did not do a day without shore power, even when staying at a friends ranch we had 15amps available. Therefore, for us, the cheap deep cell from Costco or Walmart works just fine. I am now 30 months into the 36 month batteries, and it is time for new one. So this spring, before our next trip, I will probably purchase 2 cheap batteries, hopefully less that $100 each, and they will last a couple of years again.

    This works for me.

    Happy Trails.

    And before buying two more 12VDC batteries (VERY hard and expensive to find deep cycle 12 VDC batteries) look into two 6 VDC golf cart batteries that you would install in SERIES instead of PARALLEL-- well under $100 each and true deep cycle batteries. Around 220 amp-hrs @ 12 VDC. Cosco, Sams, Golf cart shops, etc stock them.

    Brett Wolfe

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Is it possible as I have been told by RV dealer to replace my 4-6v house batteries with 2-12v batteries? he said if I didn't boondock for more than a week at a time the 12v batteries would do fine as we would be drawing the same amps as 4-6v? we don't boondock more than a week at a time anyway so its a way to go.we are fultimers and usually are in a park with full hookups.

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    I would question the advice you have received. There is NO battery bank of 4 6VDC or 2 12 VDC batteries that will last a week while dry camping unless you are EXTREMELY frugal.

    The least expensive quality deep cycle batteries (the proper battery for the house battery bank) are 6 VDC golf cart batteries.

    Yes 12 VDC deep cycle batteries are available, but are quite a lot more expensive per amp-hr as they are relatively unique compared with golf cart batteries. And 12`VDC deep cycle batteries come in a wide range of sizes (in amp-hrs), so, depending on what 12 VDC battery was recommended, you may or may not be stepping down in capacity. Marine or combination start/deep cycle batteries are a BIG step down for deep cycle use from true deep cycle batteries. Avoid them.

    Most define their battery bank size as "proper" if they can go overnight without discharging the batteries below 50% (1/2 their rated amp-hr capacity). If dry camping very often, the equation becomes overnight while discharging the batteries from 85% to 50%. That is because it is a lot less efficient to top off the last 15% than to run them from 50% to 85%. And discharge below 50% materially shortens battery life.

    Check with your local Sams and Cosco as well as golf shops. I will pay a little more for Trojan T105's than "standard" GC batteries.

    If you don't plan to run much on an inverter or run the furnace (the furnace fan is a 12 VDC power hog), you may be able to get away with a single pair of GC batteries (around 220 amp-hr capacity @ 12 VDC).

    To give you a good starting point for comparing, most 6 VDC golf cart batteries are around 220 amp-hrs. So you currently have about 440 amp hrs @ 12 VDC. If you discharge to 50% that gives you a max of 220 amp hrs @ 12 VDC available. Add up your electrical needs and see if you can do with less.

    Brett Wolfe

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Just a reminder: If you have "low silicate coolant for diesels with SCA's" (we can call this "regular" coolant for your engine) as opposed to a long-life coolant like Caterpillar ELC, YOU MUST TEST AND REPLENISH THE SCA AS IT IS USED UP. This is the coolant that came from the chassis/coach maker in all but a handful of cases.

    Failure to keep SCA's at proper level hampers cooling and on larger engines with replaceable cylinder liners, can lead to cylinder wall erosion.

    Test strips are available in small quantities: Fleetguard CC2604-A 4 pack. NAPA FIL4105. NAPA and other parts houses that cater to the OTR truck trade stock them. Go into a suburban NAPA and they might stare you like a deer caught in the headlights or ask you to buy a whole box of the individually wrapped strips.

    They are date sensitive, so MAKE SURE THEY HAVE NOT EXPIRED. Expired strips can give false results. They are easy to use-- just follow the directions-- dip in coolant, wait, read.

    Do NOT just use a set amount of SCA additive (it comes as a liquid and for coaches fit with a coolant filter, in different quantities in filters).

    Overdosing is almost as bad as under-dosing.

    If you do have a coolant filter, they come with different number of "units" of SCA. When adding SCA's it is always safer to slightly UNDER dose the system and re-check it with the test strips after a few hundred miles and re-dose if necessary.

    The test strips also test for freeze point and pH. If either is way out, it is time to drain, flush and change coolant.

    And even if everything tests OK, coolant still needs to be changed every three/four years (per coolant manufacturer's recommendations). Said another

    way, the strips do NOT test for all the anti-corrosion additives that are important to your engine.

    If, as many of us have done, you switch to a long life coolant such as Caterpillar ELC at your next coolant change, there is no SCA testing. After 3 years a "booster" is added. The ELC is then good for another 3 years.

    Your cooling system is important. If the simple testing and additive steps required of ALL diesels (Caterpillar, Cummins, Detroit Diesel, etc) are

    followed, the "inside" of your cooling system will give you many years of trouble-free service.

    And while you are there, particularly if a rear radiator, access the engine from the top and shine a strong flashlight inside the fan shroud/between the fan blades. Make sure the perimeter of the after-cooler (that is what you are looking at) is as clean as the center. The blades "sling" the dirt to the perimeter.

    Brett Wolfe

  9. Posted · Report reply

    I have a 2003 Holiday Rambler Admiral with a Norcold refrigerator and ice maker. While on the road in May I lost AC power in the front part of the coach only. The bedroom AC power was OK. When I unplugged the ice maker, model #N843IM, serial #1172594L, the front AC power returned. So, I left the ice maker unplugged.

    In September I lost the same power, once again in the front part of the coach, so I unplugged the refrigerator and power returned. Last month, just before our 1,000-mile trip home, the AC power went off again while both units were unplugged. Upon my return I took our motorome to our RV dealer service department and they plugged in both units and the power was restored. They have spent five hours @ $120 an hour testing everthing and cannot find the cause because as now there is no problem.

    Can you be of any assistance? Or has any other owner had the same problem?

    Bill,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Most refrigerator 120 VAC outlets (heating element and ice maker) are GFI protected. With the outlet for the refrigerator in a semi-exposed area (outside refrigerator door), moisture can get in there and trip the GFI. And the GFI itself can be located anywhere, with the bathroom and basement being two common locations.

    BUT, from your post it sounds like the power comes back on without you having to reset a GFI or breaker when the ice maker is unplugged. THAT IS PUZZLING.

    Are any other circuits affected by this?

    And anytime you have an issue like this, spend the 10 minutes it takes to re-torque all the connections in the 120 VAC breaker box (with power off of course).

    If you can think of anything else that will help us identify the culprit, let us know.

    Brett Wolfe

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Do you know if any particular RV is effected more than others. I have an 03 36' Alfa, I have noticed when going to one of the sites you had on you post it seems most of the people who like them have Alfas. Is there something different relative to the height. I am new to the RV thing so bear with me if I ask something totally out of left field.

    Eva,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    Yes, the effect of side winds, passing trucks, etc is in direct relation to the amount of "sail area" the side of the coach offers. Particularly, that portion behind the rear wheels (think of the wind vane on the barn roof-- that little bit of surface area in the tail of the wind vane points the whole vane toward the wind).

    Alfas are very tall, so products like the Airtabs would have more positive effect on your rig than shorter ones.

    Brett Wolfe

  12. Posted · Report reply

    I have 1999 33-foot Allegro Bus with a Cummins engine and an Allison 3000 transmission. Should I be able to tow a 1999 350 Ford standard cab, standard transmission? I do have all the safety items -- tow bar, auxiliary brake etc.

    Thanks for any input.

    Gerry

    Gerry,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    The weakest link dictates your coach's towing capacity. It may be the hitch, the hitch attachment (particularly if mounted on a frame extension vs the frame itself), brakes, etc.

    The safe answer is to confirm GCWR (to be compared with your actual coach plus toad weight) and towing capacity with both your chassis maker (Freightliner I suspect) and Tiffin.

    Brett Wolfe

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I have a 29 foot Class B+ and am towing a Chevy Colorado, which is causing some sway. I am thinking of installing anti-sway bars on my motorhome. Would the bars help to eliminate some, if not all, of the sway.

    What does your toad weigh?

    Is your coach rated to tow that much?

    What chassis?

    Is the hitch attached to the frame or a frame extension built by the coach maker?

    What is the wheelbase of your coach -- the amount of rear overhang is an important factor in how that heavy toad affects coach handling?

    Have you made any suspension upgrades to the coach to this point?

    How many miles on the coach?

    What year model?

    Brett Wolfe

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Ron,

    FMCA recognizes more than 500 chapters across the United States and Canada, and new chapters are always welcome. The FMCA Chapter Services Department (chapters@fmca.com) can provide a chapter formation kit that includes guidelines for starting a new chapter.

    "Coach-make" chapters are popular with FMCA members. These chapters may be local, regional, national or international.

    The International Area consists of chapters not bound by geographic area, such as those dedicated to a motorhome brand, a hobby or a special interest. They are called "International" chapters because coach ownership is not restricted to a particular geographic area.

    You might want to take a look at how most of the other "brand" chapters are set up. To view a list of chapters by area, use FMCA.com's Chapter Search. On the Search page, from the Area drop-down menu, select the area and then click the Search button.

    Brett Wolfe

  15. Posted · Report reply

    We have used small house-type dehumidifiers on our motorhomes and boats for many years WHILE IN STORAGE . Basically, they are small A/C's with both condenser and evaporator (where the water condenses) in the room. Not familiar with a quiet one.

    I would question that enough moisture would buildup while living in the coach (with proper ventilation) to keep any area wet (other than glass areas and other areas that remain cold-- below the dew point of the inside air.

    Have you searched for water leaks from potable water system or sink drains?

    Brett Wolfe

  16. Posted · Report reply

    And as you gain knowledge, ask SPECIFIC QUESTIONS here. There are literally millions of miles of motorhome experience here.

    The more specific your questions, the more factual/less opinion-based the answers.

    For example, a general question such as "what is a good 40' DP" will generate mostly "opinion" answers that will likely do you little good in determining what is the best coach for YOU.

    But ask a question such as what coaches come with XYZ layout-- we really like that floorplan or what kind of performance can we expect from XYZ engine in an XYZ weight coach will give you more meaningful answers.

    Brett Wolfe

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Hi All:

    Thank you for your concern. I crawled under the coach and you'll never guess No numbers on the inside tire either.so both tires are with the dot date of manf. on the inside of the tires

    but your right they are the same tires

    Grab a flashlight and mirror. You can usually see "between the duals" well enough to read the date code.

    Brett Wolfe

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all:

    I have 2004 Goegia boy Landua. (24.5 CLASS A) After all this talk and info about tires I went an checked the date of manufacture and to look for side wall cracks.

    I have mich 270rv 19.5 tires, the front tires dates are 3602 and 4202 -so this means the tires where made in the last weeks of 02-

    the back tires on the out side( cn't see the inside) have had the dot dates remove with a grinder/sander.

    I guess the date where removed to hide when they where made. Is this legal?

    I halso noticed that the tire tread on the back tires are like mud tires and the front tires are smooth straight line like a steering tire, is this normal?

    i have had my tire/mechanic look at the tires, he said for me to keep an eye on them and check often.

    I think the manufacture of my unit cut corners on my unit. Do I have any recourse with the seller (dealer)of my second hand unit? Or am I just screwed over.

    Jim Moore

    Catawba, nc

    Jim,

    The chassis builder chooses and installs the tires. I have not seen different trear design tires fit on a particular chassis as OE equipment by either Ford or Workhorse. Sounds like someone may have replaced the rear tires. Tell us exactly what tires you have-- if all Michelin XRV's, they should all have the same tread pattern.

    Be aware that the complete DOT number (with molded in date code) is only on one side of each tire sidewall. Have you verified that it is not facing inward on the rear tires? With your concerned, I would crawl under and verify what tires and build dates you have on all tires.

    Brett Wolfe

  20. Posted · Report reply

    My 2004 Monaco Diplomat Cummins/Allison recently began the following: When on level Interstate traveling about 60 or 70, the tranny is in 6th gear. Boost is low. We're rolling nicely. Then I apply the cruise control and the tranny downshifts to 5th gear and STAYS in 5th gear. Canceling or turning-off the cruise control ... and the tranny shifts into 6th gear. Anyone else experience such a problem?

    Welcome to the FMCA forum.

    Best answer is to call Allison on Monday: Allison help line 800 252 5283

    Please verify what engine/transmission you have-- is the the Allison 3000 6 speed?

    And does it do this in both regular and economy modes?

    Brett Wolfe

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Montie,

    I don't have the slightest idea what a macerating toilet is, but I use "Angel Soft," picked up in any grocery store. I figure if it is good enough for the angels, it's good enough for me.

    A macerator toilet uses an electrically driven macerator rather than gravity to move toilet contents to the holding tank.

    They are also used in marine applications and in residential applications where the toilet will be installed below the sewer drain level (like in a basement).

    Here is one manufacturer: http://www.saniflo.com/Default.aspx

    And the best answer is to contact the maker of your toilet and ask their advice.

    Brett Wolfe

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Dianne and I have spent 6 winters in Mexico in our coach and have never had a problem.

    We enjoy experiencing another culture as well as the great food and people.

    As suggested, the violence in the press is focused on those in the drug business.

    Brett Wolfe

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I was a truck driver for 20 years before I became a rancher and rv'er. I've never heard of motorhome specific tires, and that sounds like a sales gimmick to me. Like buying genuine auto parts from the dealer is better than buying generics from the auto part store. If you can get a good tire from a tire store, and get it cheaper than the rv manufacturer recommends, go for it. The only thing that made me bounce around in my truck, was when I was carrying half a load of something liquid. I used all kinds of brands of truck tires, and did not experience any significant difference. I have Kelley tires on my motorhome with a gvwr of 16,500 lbs. I've probably had more like 18,000 lbs on them from time to time, and so far so good.

    YES, there are RV specific tires-- no sales gimmick. That does not mean that non-RV specific tires should not be used, but there are legitimate "RV specific" tires.

    You might want to look at these two Websites for information on the Michelin XRV and Goodyear 670RV:

    http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/...fo.do?tread=XRV

    http://www.goodyear.com/rv/products/g670.html

    Brett Wolfe

  24. Posted · Report reply

    This is interesting indeed. Didn't know about truck tires, never even thought about them. So my questions would be:

    1. Where do you purchase them from locally (truck tire center, sears, etc..)

    2. How significant were the savings?

    3. Do you think it would be easier to find a spare if you needed one with truck tires versus RV tires?

    Thanks

    Actually, with the exception of the Michelin XRV and Goodyear G670RV tires, to my knowledge ALL tires are "dual use" (truck and RV).

    And it is easy enough to compare prices of the RV vs "other series" tires at any tire dealer.

    BTW, we do purchase our tires at a tire dealer specializing in trucks-- simply because they have the equipment and expertise to handle our size rig and it's tires and wheels.

    One other point when buying new tires-- make sure they ARE new. I do not accept any tire whose DOT.... number indicates it is older than 3 months old because you will likely be replacing them based on TIME, not tread wear. The last FOUR DIGITS of the number molded into one sidewall of each tire indicate the WEEK and YEAR of production. So a DOT number of DOT...........2308 were made the 23rd week of 2008.

    Brett Wolfe

  25. Posted · Report reply

    The 12V that feeds the fan was not present. This is Red/black wire that comes all the way from the fuse box and it was open somewhere. I could not find the place. The fan itself was also dead. The motor shaft wouldn't turn. I was able to check all the wiring with a schematic from SCS Frigette. This company sold me a new motor and after installing it remained silent. It wasn't until I fed a new wire from the fuse box with a wire I installed and connected to the original location on Connector C100 (D) when I got the entire system to work the way it is supposed to. (I cut the original wire off). Now the fan changes speeds and the heat will come out of the dash when I move the thermostat control.

    Congratulations on solving your problem. Two problems occurring at the same time (open wire and bad motor) is unusual, but as you did, just approach it logically.

    And glad you replaced the open hot wire from the fuse box-- those always scare me. Sometimes one or two strands of an open bare wire (which can happen if a wire is broken) can contact ground and while still not drawing enough current to blow the fuse turn those few strands red hot and start a fire.

    Brett Wolfe

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