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campcop

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Posts posted by campcop


  1. I think this is a simple discussion. Diesel motor homes cost, on average, 100% more than gas. You would have to drive to the moon to get the initial cost back in fuel savings.

    However, there are many advantages to diesel which have been noted. Never try to justify the RV lifestyle on the basis of cost, it is a losing proposition!

    Having just switched from gasser to diesel, I can certainly attest to that ... actually 100% might be a little low. :(


  2. Wow, I am grateful for all the thoughtful responses.

    We spent the day visiting a few more dealers and have probably ruled out the Class Cs because the chassis seems a bit petite if the manufacturer makers it into a 33' so we have probably narrowed it to the A Class and Super C Class. A salesman at a dealership that sells the Super Cs built on the Chevrolet 6500 chassis made an interesting offer--He will buy steak dinner for 4 if we can find any motorhome other than a Class A that a manufacturer has had to buy back because of lemon laws--He claims that the Chevrolet portion of the motorhome he's selling is identical to millions of other medium duty Chevrolet trucks in use and that a breakdown is extremely rare, and a breakdown that the Chevrolet mechanics can't repair is unheard of.

    If anyone can refute his claims the steak dinners are all yours.

    In most states, Lemon Laws are for automobiles and not MotorHomes.....check your particular state for those details.....and Chevrolet has had to buy back many vehicles over the years so no one is perfect...I would stay away from that dealer.

    We have owned small pop ups, two travel trailers and one 33' Fifth wheel...all had problems and the most were on the 5th wheel and this was a very good brand...We then went up to a Class A but stayed with a Gas chassis, a Vista with Ford V-10,,,this MH has performed flawlessly for the time we have owned it but it did have a few problems that were remedied by the Manufacturer....After owning just about all the types of MHs except the C's (too small for the price) we would never go back from a class A, in fact we just ordered a new Class A, a little bigger etc.

    Have your parents take a look at the gasser Class A, less $ and in shorter sizes, sounds like a 32' would suit them ... good luck on your search..


  3. Before you take measures to eleminate the odor, first find and stop the leak. To get to the top joint/ seal on the slide you will have to remove the topper. Chances are this is where the water is coming in. I had a simlilar leak on a slide and finally ended up putting a 4" piece of eternabond the whole length of the joint on top of the slide and this ended the problem. I also had to remove an inner wall in a bedroom slide. Don't now about yours but on the slide I had to repair, the wall board was glued and nailed and was quite a job.

    You might also want to check the seam if you have one on the outside wall as well, this one is usually covered with a removable strip, these too can leak and allow water into the slide...hope this helps


  4. First check to see what material it is.....then check with local kitchen counter dealer about polishing it. Different materials call for different polishing if it can be done......on corian I used a 3m gelcoat polish with very good results, it comes in varying grits. I used the finest for polishing.


  5. I don't imagine there are any problems towing the Cherokee but just check the owners manual at the dealer, don't trust a salesman....

    The newer jeeps don't have a locking steering wheel so you can lock the doors after you put the transfer case in neutral and trans in park. I used a blue ox wiring kit that has seperate tail/ brake/signal lights installed in the rear taillight assemblies...there are others that tap into the vehicle lights but I preferred seperate lights, now when I apply the brakes with the Patriot brake system in the jeep, I get 2 sets of brake lights,,,,,can't miss that!


  6. I forgot to mention that if you are coming up from FL you might want to jump over to Emerald Isle area. Come in near Jacksonville,NC, Swansboro is a neat little fishing town with campgrounds in the area, and over the bridge fromSwansboro headed towards Morhead city there is a really nice campground right in the beach, can't recall tne name now buts its a resort...we have stayed a few times. From there you can head to Cedar Island which is not too far away and catch the ferry to Ocracoke....don't forget to get a reservation though, its busy in the summer but a nice ride..usually see dolphins running the ferry bow. In fact there is a campground right next to the ferry landing.


  7. Depending on where the leak is. Ours was at the inner seam and not the outer wall but the water would find its way all the way to the outer wall and into a drawer area. I put the tape over the metal bracket that attached the frame to the slide roof...covering the screws etc. the area has to be really clean...I used acetone to clean the membrane etc. I am afraid you will have to remove the topper to do this, either the wall side or the inner side :( Who knows, once you get up there you might find that the membrane itself has a cut in it, eternabond is excellent for this too.


    The slide roof I repaired did not have a topper so it was pretty easy. I would assume the slide would have to in to remove the topper. I helped my brother- inlaw repair a topper once. You can get directions for removal from the website of the manufacturer. Usually have to mess with the springs ....hard to explain but relatively easy if you have directions with pictures!! Takes two people to do safely..
    Good luck.


  8. Ahh, so the leak is in actually in the slide itself and not the MH structure?? If that's the case, i had a leak very similar to yours but the leak came in at the base of the slide and into a drwaer area and then onto the floor. I found that the seam on top of the slide itself had been compromised but had a **** of a time finding it. I finally put a strip of 4" Eternabond along the entire top of the outer seam on the roof of the slide and down the sides about 6". That solved the problem.....Everybody always checks their roof seams but seldom is the slide roof checked which usually has the rubber membrane covering checked, especially if there is a slide topper on them.





  9. As long as you stay on 101 you will be fine. You actually have to leave US101 in Northern CA and take CA 1 to ride the coast down to San Francisco. CA 1 is not a fun highway in a 40 ft caoch towing...

    Hmmm... we are planning a trip this summer that is a little opposite ,planning on heading west from NM to visit some friends in Oxnard and then heading up the coast to Washington. Been told to stay inland and do day trips to the coast with the toad....


  10. I know an owner of a 5th wheel who had someone drop his rig off near a lake on a small grade. The rv was left with the front jacks down and the rear wheels were NOT chocked or locked. When the owner showed up he found his rv had slid down the embankment and was almost in the water...jacks on a MH are very similar, a large flat surface on the pad that WILL slide.....lifting the rear wheels off the ground without chocking and blocking is just asking for trouble.....

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