RVerOnTheMove
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Posts posted by RVerOnTheMove
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Thanks for the note. I just finished setting up the recording to my DVR. I don't see anything particularly "extreme" about a Newell coach as there are many manufacturers that will build you a "seven-figure palace" including Liberty, Marathon and others. There is nothing extreme about this. A full body slide? Ho hum... A "luxury" Sprinter? It's a Sprinter van turned into an RV. Seriously, how extreme can it be!
Don't take this the wrong way, I will be watching. However, if that's what you find to be "extreme" you might want to take a second look.
JMHO and likely does not reflect the opinions of others.
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Not going to happen (currently) with DirecTV. If you want to be able to travel and ensure you will be able to watch your Network programming no matter where you stop, you need to sign up for the DirecTV DNS services.
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I simply have to learn how to make such a great response to posters with a differing (inaccurate) post.
Bill, are you a teacher? If so, I need lessons.
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There are hundreds! You will need to determine what you like/need/want and see if those activities are available. There is clearly something for everyone.
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If you already only need to change the oil every 100,000+ miles, why change anything. Empty, fill, head off to bed and sleep well.
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There are no roads or passes that will cause any issue from any entrance to the interior of Yellowstone. If you are just trying to get in and get to your campground you will have no issues. If you want to tour the park in your RV you will just have to pay attention to the fact that not all SIDE roads are meant for an RV.
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http://www.bajainsider.com/driving-baja/gaspricesmexico.htm
Just be sure that your RV will be able to use the fuel (your '03 will do fine) as I don't believe that there in any ULSD in Mexico.
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Yep, a completely unbiased report from a company whose business is selling CO2!
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In order for someone to answer that question that person would have to have the correct charts for the correct tires and look up the data just as you have. Assuming you have current charts (one for each tire manufacturer) for your current tires you should have the correct information. Some people like to add 5 pounds to the numbers stated as a safety precaution.
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You also stated that it (?) would turn fully to the left but not all the way to the right.He was referring to the wheels (or steering wheel) themselves.
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You use the appropriate weight from the chart for the heaviest tire on the axle and apply the same pressure to both side.
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Yes it will. The older antennas can't receive all 3 satellites (110, 119, 129) but that's not the receivers fault but rather the fault of the antenna the receiver is connected to.
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You would think that, but you would be wrong. If the connection to my coach was not made properly with my external power cord you could (and I did) end up with no neutral (or ground) and the exact situation I described. The cord was properly plugged into the outlet but the connection to my coach was only partially inserted creating this disaster.
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So, we all agree. I have a 25 year old coach and I have learned how to do much more than I was ever interested in learning how to do! I fully understand PM and highly recommend it. However, this is the first I have ever heard that you should be checking your transfer switch connections and I suspect that no manufacturer ever made this a regular maintenance item in any brochure they ever produced.
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Voltage at the power pole at this moment has little to do with the voltage at the power pole when you have an issue. The only thing you could do is get your own meter and check that pole at that time. RV park voltage can vary dramatically at different times of day and under different weather/load conditions.
If it were me (and it is not) I would have moved already. The good news is that your surge guard has kept your coach safe even it has been inconvenient. We recently installed a surge guard after having service done on our coach and the servicing dealer not properly connecting up our coach. We had 240 on one leg and 0 on the other. Lot's of stuff dead or damaged and lots of bad blood caused on both sides. That should never happen again now that we have the protection installed.
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I agree (now). However, up until this moment in time, the last thing I would ever check on my coach was the wiring. Should I pull the breaker box cover and check every connection there? How do I check the connections where the power cord enters the coach? Should I have checked every cable leaving my generator? What about every 12V connection in the engine? Should I be checking for bubbles at my propane tank every few months? Is my steering too loose, did the last guy properly grease all of my zerk fittings? Am I going to crawl under to find out?
I full-time. When am I going to do this and where?
This is not a battle so we may just have to agree to disagree, but if there is something as critical as a transfer switch which requires periodic attention, this should have been brought to the attention of the owner and the transfer case should have a huge warning label that user intervention is required.
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Brett, you know me and you know I should usually keep my mouth shut. You also likely know that I rarely do.
Your post is certainly accurate but it sure makes it sound like you are blaming what is likely a faulty piece of hardware on the victim!
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There's certainly nothing wrong with a KOA. There are just usually better less expensive choices where we travel.
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I have always maintained that "toys" should be purchased with cash. All my boats and motorhomes in the last 38 years have been bought with cash. Sometimes I had to wait until I had enough money.
Due to the low cost of borrowing now available from many sources it can actually cost less to borrow the money compared to the amount of money lost in interest/gains if these funds are in a working savings plan. Additionally, the money in the bank is accessible at any time while any equity in your RV is frozen.
It's just not simply a "one size fits all" situation.
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This is what I installed on my van since our battery would go dead with time as well. Some cars allow you to pull a fuse but I just installed a battery disconnect switch like this one:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/battery-safety-switches/1461
Open the hood and pull the blade and you are good to go. Slide it back in place when you get there and you have a fully charged battery. The suggestion above about running a power cable to the battery is also an excellent workable solution. You just need to ensure that the car does not require power to be towable if you want to use the battery disconnect option.
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I don't know about the batteries you selected but my AGM Lifeline batteries will be 10 years old this coming January.
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Sounds like a bad thermocouple if you have a good flame and that flame is clearly hitting the center of the thermocouple. If the thermocouple never gets hot enough it will assume there is no flame and shuts down the propane flow for safety.
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I stayed there in a 40' Prevost coach. They did not have a lot of large sites, but they do exist.
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That does appear to be the correct dimension to the top of the post. There are 2 post configurations, however, with one being 3/16" taller than the other.
Towing 2004 Chrysler Sebring
in Toads-Towed Behind Motorhome
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If no one comes up with a valid answer you can always install a battery disconnect to solve you dead battery issue. I used a battery disconnect like this one for many years:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/battery-safety-switches/1461
You would just drive the car on, hook it up and pull the disconnect blade. Now you can turn the key to the proper position and when you arrive the battery will be as fresh as new.