RonaldNC

Ron, I'm not sure it's an exact match to what you need, but here is where I bought it in Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trane-45-12-5Mfd-440V-Rnd-Run-Cap-OEM-CPT0688/381974411981?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3Dd100968a6f0e496385b8a2d0ef495102%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D372557506355%26itm%3D381974411981%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2509164&_trksid=p2509164.c100903.m5276 It's a 440 volt, instead of 330 volt... but that's okay. It is physically larger than the original, but I found a spot above the fan to attach it. Just used some really strong two-sided padded tape to hold it there. The other option is to buy two separate capacitors (In my case a 45 Mfd and 12.5 Mfd) and do a little rewiring. I didn't like that option, but it would also work. If you need more help, just email me. Good luck, Ron

I had a similar problem a couple of months ago. Everything looked good... but the compressor wouldn't come on. Per the service manual, I tested the start/run capacitor and it was bad. I bought a new one (hard to find) and now it starts/runs like a champ. Unfortunately, you'll need to get on the roof to check it. If you can't... call a service tech. If you need the service manual and parts manual, I would be happy to email it to you. Just send me your email address. Good luck, Ron

My 2009 Monaco Cayman also has the cage as a stock item (I bought it new). Interestingly, on mine, the two forward nuts are welded to the frame, but the two rear tabs attach with a loose bolt and nut through a hole in the frame. You may consider that option rather than welding to the frame. I love having it back there... but it is a pain when accessing the oil and fuel filter. Good luck! Ron

Keith, This happened to me once after a slide repair. Mechanic came out and discovered that my fluid was low. He put in a half quart of fluid and the jacks retracted perfectly. Sometimes it can be the simple things. If not that, you need to determine if the pump is running. If not, then look for electrical solutions, as suggested by the other posts. If the pump is running, then you have a hydraulic issue. Either way, give Lippert a call. They have been very helpful to me with technical support. Ron

Yes, I bought my coach new. However, it was a show model that had about 8,000 miles on it. When I get some time, I'll pull the wiring diagrams and see if something was rigged "special" for the shows. It doesn't bother me a lot, as I know what it does. Interestingly, I didn't know about this until about two years ago. I got in to start the coach when it was in storage and it wouldn't start. I checked everything around the dash... transmission, park brake, clicked the key on and off, etc. My wife asked it the "orange button" needed to be pushed, as I usually did that upon entering the coach so I could turn the lights on. I told her "no" and that it didn't matter. After a few minutes, I thought "what the heck" and hit the button... of course, the coach fired right up. My wife has never let me live it down ever since. My challenge will be to find where they cross wired it to not let the coach start... Ron

Herman, I hear you.... however, I just tested my coach and it won't start with the salesman switch off. I turn it off... won't start... turn it on... it starts. Not all Monaco models are alike. I think it might be powering/un-powering some other solenoid??? Mike and I have even found some differences between our supposedly identical coaches. I have two high powered breakers in my battery compartment... he has one. I don't always understand why there are differences... but "it is, what it is"! Thanks for all the help! Ron

Thanks Brett! Interestingly, he has no power to the Allison shift selector. According to his manual's trouble shooting diagram, that may mean that a 10 amp "engine fuse" in his rear electric distribution box may be blown. Ron

Brett, You are almost always right... but not in this case. LOL! My model (the Monaco version of the OP's) won't start with the battery cut-off switch (salesman switch) off. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me, but I've confirmed it many times... when I forget to turn it on. I've spoken to the OP (Mike) on the phone and his problem is a bit bewildering. Everything in the coach works and he can start his generator just fine. There is just no power to the chassis/motor/transmission. He's checked the batteries, battery switches, high-powered breakers, solenoid, etc. Everything thing worked fine when he parked it in his storage garage. He's been plugged in the whole time. He hadn't worked on it while in storage. Truly a mystery! Is there some other potential point of failure that is possible between the battery and the chassis? We're stumped. I told him to call Monaco technical support on Monday, as they have been pretty useful to me in figuring out problems. Ron

Yes, that's the one. It turns off all the power, except refrigerator and a couple of other things. Mine won't start without that turned on. You should hear some clicking of the relays in the front left area of the coach when you turn on or off. You can tell if it's on when the internal lights work. If it fails, then it's likely the solenoid in the battery compartment... which has gone bad on me twice since I've owned my coach. Again, if we need to get on the phone to discuss... I'm happy to. Ron

You can start the engine with the jacks down and the slides out... do it all the time. Based on what you've written, I'm feeling it's the salesman switch or the solenoid that it controls in the battery compartment. What you describe is what I experience in mine when that is the problem. Ron

I have the Monaco equivalent of your coach. Make sure that you have the "salesman switch" on left side of the entry door panel turned on. It's the orange one. Also, make sure that you are in neutral. These are mistake that I make every so often. If you need wiring diagrams, manuals, etc... let me know. We can exchange phone numbers if that helps. Ron

Hmmm... I removed the decorative medallions, but it didn't allow me access to the ribbed inserts. I've got it all buttoned up now, so will have to wait for a later occasion. Everything seems to be working good now. Thanks for all your help! Ron

Gramps, I didn't have any trouble removing the two inch strip... it was just attached with two-sided tape. What gave me trouble was accessing the place where the cable attaches to the slide. My is also covered with wood, but I couldn't remove it. How do you access the cable end? Ron

Okay... got good news and bad news. I bought all the tools, replacement cables, etc. I removed the top layer of trim above the slide and could access the motor and cable. However, I couldn't remove the bottom layer of trim that provides easier access to the cables. There are three long screws that attach it to the ceiling... got two out, but not the third. I'll have to wait until I get access to an "easy out" or a cutter wheel. I also can not figure out how to remove the side trim on the slide itself (to provide access to the cable ends). Very frustrating!!! Now the good news. To my surprise, I found that none of the cables are broken!!! They were just so loose that they felt broken on the sides. The cable adjusters were all nearly falling out. I tightened the adjustors (which was difficult without all the trim off) and the slides work great now. When I get better access, I'll put some lock tight on them. I'm going to call around some more to find out how to remove the trim... I know I'll need to do it someday. Thanks for the help! Ron

Gramps, Thanks for the offer! I will probably check in here as I start the effort. I ordered the repair kits and they are scheduled to arrive on Thursday, so will work on it Friday or Saturday. My main issue is finding the proper crimping tool. I'm in West Texas right now and tried a couple of places, but no joy. I'll be in Waco in a couple of days and there is a Home Depot there... will give them a try. I've watched all the videos and download the documentation. I think I'm ready (famous last words). One question... the crimping tools I've seen online have a 1/8" and 3/16" notch, but the cable is 5/32". Do you use the 1/8" notch? I called Monaco today and they said that the trim is put on with pin nails. They recommended removing them slowly and carefully so they can be reused. I plan on reinstalling with Velcro. My guess is that this is not the last time I'll need access to the motor and cables. I really appreciate the help! Ron