turtlemechanic

I was wondering the same since it's not finished, just thought it was obvious that the "step" would be gone after they pour, and then the hitch will be 5 inches higher

I hope that helps to see normal adjustments

The passenger wiper blade was over riding the windsheild and molding, that will kill a blade, so it was time to adjust them notice the two nuts on wiper base/ small one on the "follower arm" holds the adjustment for blade angle in place The big nut on the wiper arm holds the arm on, while locating it on splines take nuts off and put an alignment mark for the splines remove pcs, clean lightly lube my splines are somewhat booger'd so I will look into another arm in the future I moved the arm 2 splines and it moved it about 3 inches when parked it's near middle of glass out of the way now if you notice her blade is straight up and down or perpendicular to the windsheil, the "follower" works like a suspension part and you can adjust the angle(camber) of the blade thru the travel My blade was at an angle and wouldn't wipe good see these? if you loosen these and change the "length" of the "follower" it changes the angle of your blade as it was all the way in or the "shortest" extreme other way all the way out pulled back in a ways so new blades and they are adjusted...Remember this one thing Make sure to have water availible to spray on windshield...a slick wet glass lets the blades move faster and furthe with no drag.....drive on

Napa has lap belts also 84 inch belts BK 7303051 72 inch belts BK 7303042 I just ordered 3 more sets and will mount them this weekend Pay attention to angle of mount and secure mounting

Maybe it was a good thing they didn't talk to you? You may of "caught" something We ran into someone like that last weekend camping...they actually told campground owners to not park us beside them The entire campground came through our Residential Vehicle over the course of the weekend; except for that one vehicles owners....their loss is how we looked at it

Go-pro mounted on four legged friends headband?

and they asked us for a "picture" so we were turned down...we were too snooty for them

Keep in mind that Bristol,Va/Tn will be packed the week before the race, march 16th weekend and there will not be much availible with out the caos that 150,000 people bring to Bristol

Nope, just saying that after the scratches have been polished out,we just wash and wax them to keep them shiny. If they get rubbed against trees etc, and get scratched again we just polish them out and apply wax to protect the finish

The aluminum wheel polish may be a little harsh for the plastic and may be removing oils from the plastic which causes them to "dry out" and look like crap. Just use a good wax that is UV stable.

That was a great trip you did (even tho' you missed me by half a state :wink: ) A.K.A. Bansil

Got it thanks!

Looking for more info about Veterans Hope Foundation Google is not my friend in this quest Any additional info would be great

A side note: do not use this process on "soft" plastic. If it "feels" soft with your fingernail, it will not work. So no plexiglass or some plastics used in gauge covers. It will be scratch free but hazed over from polish scratches.

part 4 looking good....a few more coats of polish..... so you'll notice the deep scratches from branches etc are now ....gone a light coat of wax...will be next. this was about a 15 min process. so compare before . . . . . and after. . . .

part 3 Next we need: Warm soapy water 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper 400 " " " " 600 " " " " Only need a few small squares,get them wet(dry paper will not work,paper just scratches and clogs up.) so starting with 220 paper,and keep lens and paper wet,do small circles with light pressure,you can feel it "cutting" the surface,when it stops "cutting" wash paper and lightly sand til parts is smooth.(afew min.) 220 if there are still scratches repeat with 220 paper til' they are gone. then it's on to 400 grit...same as 220.....(about a min.) 400 then if surface is smooth and 220 scratches are gone.....move on to the 600 grit paper....and repeat process. 600 now surface has no scratches from the 400 paper and is very smooth,so break out the polishing compound and apply one coat to see how sanding turned out.

part 2 y You can see oxidation difference on the stop lens.... You'll notice bigger scratches :shock: those will addressed next,this first step removes first layer of oxidation and really shows up the flaws in the plastic....and cleans plastic for next step, more tomorrow And the left over polish will come right out of letters etc,with a soft bristle toothbrush under water. OK so we polished the oxidation off, so it doesn't clog the sand paper.

I have seen several threads with mention of foggy and scratched lenses. I offer this simple and easy solution....USE AT OUR RISK I did this writeup on another forum, we scratch a lot of plastic lenses part 1 figured I'd show some folks how easy it is to polish the lenses w/o using a power buffer. First you need...... What else would we use? You can see from pics the difference of just one coat. Wash off dirt and then using old sock or underwear(cotton...not satin or lace :roll: ) apply some polish in a circular pattern,let dry and buff off.

First post...this "sub"forum is the reason I joined after lurking for a long time. First off, thank you to all for your service. I was a third gen. "Tanker" grandfather was on tanks ,my father was a tanker until he hit E-6 and join JAG...he retired as a w4-"P" the the 5 wasn't assigned yet(he had just finished "writing" the class),I was fortunate to be sworn into the service by my father. I don't want to boast....I am just **** proud. I remember Ft Huachuca(home of the buffalo soldiers) I served with 3/3ACR as a driver and gunner(1 time late night on radio watch...T54 at 2000 meters) Sorry for ramble...I just got excited and went back in time Thank you again everyone....out.