sfroese

Yes, only at high temperatures, but still worth mentioning . Note that absorption fridges shed heat to the environment, and therefore lose efficiency as the ambient temperature increases. But as aztec points out, this only generally begins to be noticeable at temperatures around 100 deg. F.

whoa, that's a rusty bus

I'm not going to comment on the specific name, but the change was made in order to include owners of travel trailers and fivers. Trailer sales tend to be much higher than motorized sales, and as you have likely observed in your travels, many, if not most, RV families use trailers. The intent was never to alienate motorhome owners, but rather to welcome trailer owners into the fold. Your original suggestion here is good, but consider the excessively high cost of rebranding

I definitely recommend a TPMS system for all tires on the RV and toad (and tow dolly if you use one). Our Tire Minder system has saved me from what likely would have been a tire fire on my dolly. Since I tow my Prius on a dolly with a Diesel pusher, I likely would never have noticed the dolly blowout had not my TPMS immediately alerted me. There are several brands on the market of course, but Minder Research is, in my opinion, the most well known and is of high quality.

Hi, a 12 cubic ft. fridge is the standard 4-door propane models you would see in larger units such as your Class A. In terms of temperature variants, that depends on many factors, not the least of which is the ambient outside temperature. But cooling can also be affected by the cleanliness of the cooling unit fins, flame quality, etc. We have a 2006 Newmar and until my cooling unit leaked and I had to replace it, we had no issues keeping our fridge loaded with food cool and the freezer food frozen. The same can be said for the 12cu. ft. fridges I have had in all my Class A units. As you do your shopping, you may find an RV that does not have a propane fridge, but rather a residential model. This is a personal choice, but I am not a fan of these and have always found the absorption fridges work great if they are properly maintained. As I mentioned though, extremely high ambient temperatures tend to affect cooling, but in this case, additional cooling fans inside and outside the fridge can do wonders.

Hi Bill et al, I apologize for the long delay in this response, but it points to an issue I have been trying to address with the forum. I am not notified of new postings, and I do not receive notifications when people directly try to contact the moderator. Also, when they set me as moderator, I actually lose moderator privileges, IT does not seem to know why. I believe they have set me as a regular member with moderator access. Definitely not ideal, and this is why I have to manually search through the many postings to find requests I can assist with. This is a labor intensive process. Also, moderator and admin are different roles, and I only have moderator access..... sort of. So, my apologies to any member who has been frustrated with trying to get a response or feedback from the moderator. We are working on addressing this issue, including why I do not receive emails for the moderator. thanks

Hi, this is your friendly neighborhood moderator here... There are many benefits to being an FMCA member, and I would urge you to carefully review the website to get an idea of what they are. Here is a summary, but note this list is not all-inclusive: technical and consumer articles, Tech Connect, FMCA University, Tire Rebate program, Roadside assistance, camping discounts, FMCA magazine, many discount offers, and so much more.

Not likely to be an inline fuse, but I have seen these fuses reside in both the chassis fuse block, as well as the house fuse block. I agree with Bill in that they are most likely to be in the firewall fuse block.

Hi, this is the FMCA moderator. When you state that you can "start it by jumping from the starter", do you mean it will start if you jump the solenoid or what? If that is the case, you have a bad solenoid. Otherwise, please clarify your statement. thanks.

Of course I do. Just because it's old doesn't mean it's not relevant.

I think the author is stating the plug is RATED for 240V, not that it's actually putting that voltage out. As my friend Bill stated, these adaptors do not change the voltage. If it is 3-prong receptacle, it is 120V.

it was likely a fault with the LV board.

It depends how many amps you are pulling out and putting in during charging. If you have a trailer, 2 or 4 is sufficient, but if you have a motorhome with a large alternator and/or inverter/charger, you might consider as large as 1/0. In the case of a motorhome, I definitely wouldn't go smaller than 2, but you may notice the cabling from the chassis and inverter may be as large as 1/0.

This is the FMCA forum moderator. Let me see if I can dig up more information regarding better access to the roadside assistance number.

Just a note, although a DC-DC charger is the best option, you don't need one. You can also use a Li-BIM isolator. Much easier to wire up. Also, the cost of ownership of LiOn over the cost of their lifetime is much lower than the alternatives, and the power vs. weight is much more favorable, as LiOn are roughly half the weight per Ah as lead-acid. Lots of advantages vs. a few disadvantages. I just upgraded to LiOn while camping last week. Took me about an hour, although it could take longer, depending on what charging and isolating technology you use. your friendly neighborhood moderator

Could be a short in the RJ-11 or in the RCU (remote unit) itself. Also, make sure the power switch on the inverter is turned off (to allow the RCU to control the unit). Did you try leaving the RJ-11 unplugged to see if the inverter turns on? Try that, and if the problem goes away, the issue is with the remote cable or remote control unit. Doubt unplugging the negative will work - electrons flow from negative to positive, but they won't flow at all if you disconnect either one. Although in all my years as an aerospace engineer, I have seen stranger things

As BIll mentioned, most inverters automatically pass-through the incoming AC voltage automatically with no user intervention. A select few need to have this feature manually activated, but most don't. You should ensure that both the inverter breaker in the main panel, as well as all the inverter branch circuits in the sub-panel are not tripped. If you have a multimeter and are comfortable using it, you should measure the AC voltage at the inverter with the Inverter turned OFF, because you have to make sure the 120VAC is coming from the shore power, not the inverter output. Alternately, you may disconnect the inverter from the battery bank and make sure you still have AC voltage at the inverter. That is the first thing to verify. It is possible, but hopefully not likely, that your bypass circuit in the inverter has failed.

LOL

I get it, methinks its out of date

Yes, I was able to help him. Note there is only one moderator for the forum as far as I'm aware. Administrators are different things, as they keep the IT infrastructure and websites running. Not sure if you were simply mixing up the terms or not.

Ok, I'll try to reach out...

Hi, it's Steve the moderator.... How may I be of assistance?

If you're going to leave your RV plugged in over the winter, the following is very important: in the case of non-maintenance-free batteries, check them frequently to make sure the electrolyte isn't boiling off. Be sure to top up the cells regularly if you don't have a 3-stage charger, you risk overcharging the battery. The charger must have a float stage Keep the terminal connections clean. Clean off any acid that forms and use baking soda solution to help keep it clean

I currently run a Newmar Diesel pusher with 4x Costco 6V batteries. They work great, are inexpensive, and easy to source. Of course Interstate batteries are also great. As others here have pointed out, if you rarely dry camp, it's largely a moot point. Just be sure to maintain the electrolyte level and keep the terminals clean.

Better late than never, but I wanted to point this out. LP gas IS heavier than air and will therefore sink, hence the floor-level location of the LP detector. However, CO will MIX with air and DOES NOT RISE. Therefore, CO detectors are ideally mounted knee-height or lower. That is why combination LP/CO detectors are effective, since CO detectors work just as well at floor level than higher.