abyrd

Use a good penetrating oil and try drilling with a let hand drill bit, with a little luck the bit will grab and will assist in the removal of the broken bolt. Jim

I have changed the cables on previous owned Motorhomes. Pretty straight forward job make sure you keep track on how the cables are wound on the winch drums. Also inspect the bushings/bearing on the cable rollers and clean/ lubricate them, as well as the slide rollers.

Just had some rock chips repaired and painted on lower right front quarter in an are that had repairs by previous owner. The 3M clear bra was never replaces after the previous repairs. Being a do it yourself person I was thinking about installing the clear bra material myself. The body shop wants $300 (actual material cost is less that $50) to install an area approximately 18" high X 50" long, the area warps from the front of the door to the pull out for the generator on the front. The 3M clear bra sure has done a good job protecting the paint all other areas across the front of the coach. The body shop as recommended to all the paint and clear coat to cure for at least 90 days before install the clear bra. Has anyone have any comments to offer for a do it yourselfer or should leave it up to a professional. Thanks, Jim

My wife and I upgraded to a 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor about four years ago and thoroughly enjoy the unit, we previously had owned several class A and C motorhomes over a 30 year period previous to our upgrade. The only means to charge the coach batteries on the Endeavor is with the charger/converter which require shore power or running the generator, all previous owned motorhomes had an isolation relay that was energized when the main engine was running and the chassis alternator provided a means to charge the coach batteries when underway. I have a full set of electrical schematics and owner manuals for the Endeavor and system design only allows the paralleling the coach and chassis battery banks via of a momentary contact switch located on the dash. This provide a means to "jump start" your main engine from the chassis battery bank. I am considering installing a BLUESEA ACR that will all the coach battery bank and the chassis battery bank paralleled at all time but will automatically isolated the two battery banks should the battery voltage drop to a predetermined minimum voltage that would still allow starting of the chassis engine.. You find the BLUESEA ACR used in many marine applications. I have a twin engine boat that has three battery banks, one for each engine and one for the cabin and there are all connected with ACR's. This design has served me well and I have never had any issued with system. Is anyone aware of a similar design used in motorhomes. Thanks, Jim

I have owned a couple of motorhomes with the P30 chassis, The hydraulic unit is self-contained and will start and establish pressure with the ignition switch in the run position, once you shift out of PARK the brake will release. The brake is fail safe meaning that the hydraulic pressure hold the brake in the released position, the down side if you loose pressure when driving down the road the brake will engage..

When changing the fuel filters is there any preferred order that the filters are changed. I normally change the water separator (filter with water detector /drain) first and the smaller filter last. I leave the water separator filter empty and have no problem starting engine, however if I don't fill the secondary filter engine won't start even with turning ignition sw. to run position several time and letting fuel pump cycle. Starts immediately if I remove secondary filter and fill with clean fuel. The filter has a label on it warning not precharge filters on ISC engines.