casuall454

I would be more concerned with "fluid surge" and condensation. As the fuel tank isn't baffled the tank 1/2 filled will allow for fluid surge during heavy braking and turning. This could become a factor during rain or roads that are poorly maintained. Secondary concern is 1/2 filled tank allows for condensation to accumulate inside the tank. Safe travels.

Over a couple of months, I watched PU truck owners filling their DEF with 2.5 gallon jugs, after they threw them away. I recycled them in my possession. Filled them using bulk dispenser and then placed into milk crates that I carry in my basement. I always have 5 extra gallons for myself and the other guy in the campground who is low. As to other(s) not reading the entire posts, some use the forums to post idle chat and catch up on old friendships, with out adding anything to the content of the thread.

Been with USAA for 30+ they use Foremost, Farmers, Geico & Progressive for other outside policy writing. I will still use them for banking and investment, however they lost me as insured. Due to Foremost not addressing outstanding questions on my RV policy under my USAA account, I provided feedback to USAA Senior Systems Policy Administrator, he was a pleasant person although I had no choice but to RFP my insurance policies. I was able to save just over $1100 annually transferring to Auto Owners Insurance. (Auto Owners underwrites RV policies, they don't sub them out) For those who own a house, store your coach on your residential property and tow your car. It becomes very beneficial to have all your policies with one company. If you have an incident file the claim and let the insurance company figure out which division to subjugate the claim under. If you however have several separate companies holding policies, you may spend some time "working thru" which company has responsibility to settle the claim.

The question on retirement and financing from the first question, you have several good responses in the beginning IMHO. It seems prudent to obtain financing if possible prior to you entering retirement and fixed income. In beginning my process of financial review (loan request amount +interest+ time) I used a calculator from vertex42. Although this is supposed to be used for "snow ball" debt reduction. It allows for principal payments, bi-weekly payments, and other one time payments. It simply shows you how you can cut time and interest costs from your loan. Just because I have a twenty year loan doesn't imply I don't want to pay it off in seven. This calculator shows me how to achieve that goal. http://www.vertex42.com/Calculators/debt-reduction-calculator.html Although several lending intuitions will desire your business, best wishes on locating the over all loan package that meets your needs.

Magne Shade is producing my exterior windshield cover. I was looking at their wheel covers, however while attending the Tampa RV Supershow I saw coaches leaving the grassy area that was a muddy soupy mess. I saw tire covers caked in mud, so I really am looking for some thing like my old MCD that snapped on my coach body and didn't touch the ground. My thought is rather then "snap" covers into place, or use bungee cords. I would take a page from the boating marine folks and use awning track and welt insert to attach the screen material to. Thanks all for vendor recommendations, once I get this project in production I will update images in my gallery.

While at FMCA rally in January I was going to order new MCD tire covers. In speaking with MCD they don't make tire covers any more. I am looking for a vendor who can I can purchase bulk MCD outside shade material from ? I have found several other vendors of sun shade material, although the quality doesn't seem as high as MCD.

Largest RV Salvage yard in US. Used them several times assisting friends with projects. http://colawrvsalvage.com/ Best of luck with your repairs.

2015 unit. Warranty maybe? Otherwise the units are fairly simple in operation, however trouble shooting your problem has several possible causes: 1) Fuel filter restriction 2) Fuel pump low flow 3) Injector nozzle is 0.35 @ 60 degree spray plugged / restricted flow. (please don't try to clean a nozzle, just replace it) 4) Photo cell cracked (lens is glass), can be soot build up on lens. Unit doesn't receive flame code and shuts down. 5) Initiator out of adjustment, not igniting diesel. 6) Air filter dirty, low CFM flow again causing unit to burn rich = dirty. Aqua hot in 2013 changed the burn chamber from 18gu sheet metal to 0.125 steel. Any person who is servicing their older unit can upgrade to the new steel burn chamber, be sure when you reinstall to place hole to bottom as that is exhaust port. Additional information http://www.aquahot.com/esource/ecom/esource/staticpages/documents/450-DE2%20Service%20Manual%20Rev%20C.pdf

Last week was travel North I-75 from Perry back to Ohio. I drove straight thru downtown. If you travel with co-pilot? Have them check road conditions for delays as you approach the out belt and make your best decision then. GL on your travels.

Although I prefer to drive and "slosh" the tank to break up settlement of solids and then use my black and grey tank flushing systems. I do find watching some videos informative.

Test voltage of outlet on inverter power and then on shoreline lower. GFIC - Outlets can fail over time, you could have a "bad" unit although purchasing a new outlet to test that theory can get very expensive. Last thought; obtain make and model of outlet and preform internet search for documented recall from UL, FTC, NFPA-70 or the manufacturer. Best of luck on this, I rather have a failed part then trouble shooting 25 possible causes.

Be sure to fully "extend" the hose, at the connector end. "Trim" back extra plastic hose material, to the spring steel support. At the "higbee" cut line. Then bend the spring steel in about 1/16" Screw the hose into the coupling till snug, take care to not over tighten, then tighten the lock collar in the coupling. I use Rhino hose, as well a few of my friends. The main reason for leaks appears to be when we don't fully extend the hose prior to "seating" the coupling and then locking the collar. Later today I will be working on a couple of Rhino hoses, check out my photo gallery for pictures that should show you better what I am attempting to explain.

Obtaining the gas / filled cylinders is the easiest part. If that is all you want create a Airgas account and be prepared to present your Rx (prespriction) for Medical Grade O2. Be sure your private tanks are with in hydro service date, or they will not fill them. https://www.airgas.com/product/Gases/Medical-Gases/Oxygen---Medical/p/OX%20USPE It's the disposable and reusable supplies that Airgas doesn't supply as theY aren't licensed as "end user distributor" of regulated supplies "on or by the order of licensed physician" that could be a concern, you will have to evaluate your needs. If you desire access to filling of your O2 cylinders, medical supplies and maintenance supplies a medical supply company might better serve your requirements. A couple of the major companies in US for respiratory supplies and breathing support are: https://www.lincare.com/ https://www.apria.com/

Both South lanes open by March 17, appears returning home will be a bit easier then the drive down. Report states South bound traffic is only +40 minutes on average. Read the attached report and make our own decision. http://www.11alive.com/story/news/traffic/2016/03/05/southbound--75-reopen-st-patricks-day/81389248/

By your posting of "adequate power" I gather your using a concentration unit. Some use cartage filters, some use sand filters. Be sure to carry enough basic maintenance supplies with you. Suggest you obtain your medical providers contact information, so "filling" of compressed cylinders can be done quickly and efficiently. Each states board of medicine and board of pharmacy will regulate dispensing of regulated medical supplies, in Ohio this includes medical grade oxygen (O2) Best wishes on your safe and enjoyable travels.