casuall454

Ohio requires plates. As many above have said, a check of your states motor vehicle regulations would be well served. If you have a friend in law enforcement a "friendly" chat with them may serve you well.

Bedroom, to bathroom, to brewing morning coffee to driving first leg in my PJ's priceless. Watching that same process from anyone pulling a trailer, just further reminds me why I really enjoy the benefits of motor coaching.

Still another week to evaluate what DOT has in place for detour. My thought is if the detour is suitable for Class A and B commercial, then my lil motorcoach will be just fine. Looking forward to seeing everyone in eight days, with travel stories I'm sure.

If your looking at room / storage consider Magma nesting set, I bought one extra handle. http://www.magmaproducts.com/Products/Cookware/cookware.html My favorite, longest lasting hands down easy to maintain Lodge cast iron. https://www.lodgemfg.com/ Both sets work great on my induction top unit. GL on your selection process

As most know I-75 is shut down due to land slide near the KY/TN border. By time we leave March 14 for Perry, the detours will have been operational for two (2+) weeks. I expect State DOT to have logistical issues of the detours working smoothly. As we are traveling from Ohio for Perry, I am still traveling I-75 and following detour. http://www.wlwt.com/news/landslide-closes-i75-south-of-tnky-border-for-weeks/38250110

Last month we attended the Tampa RV Super show and spent four days camping at Lazy Days. We truly expected to buy from them due to size, volume and all the other hype. We traveled to Ft. Meyers, Orlando, Gainesville and Jacksonville in addition to our time at Seffner. When it was all over we didn't purchase from Lazy Days. Lazy Days inventory is second maybe to MHRVS, however the saturation of dealers in Florida did make for very strong negotiations in our favor. The internet has empowered you the buyer to "locate" the best pricing on motorcoaches. Use that knowledge to negotiate your best price. Best wishes on your upcoming purchase.

Motorhome = Non Commercial That is why Motorcoach's drivers don't stop at commercial weigh scales, or are subject to motor carrier stops / enforcement. This is why you see Truck Conversions, usually on Volvo and Freightliner chassis, clearly labeled on the door "Private use only" or "Non-Commercial Driver / Use" Clarification from your State Bureau of Motor Vehicles, may assist you if you still have additional questions.

We attended Tampa RV "Super Show" last month and found the pricing to be equal to what could be located using the internet. We viewed attending the Tampa show as a great way to view several manufacturers floor plans, and was a great excuse to escape the Northern January winter in Ohio, for the frost advisory's of Florida. With the use of internet and other on-line information, most dealers will match pricing even when from out of state. What I desire most is my dealer to have the trained and certified technicians to preform warranty and then non-warranty covered repairs.

Reviewing coaches on the internet and "looking" at floor plans, got us a basic idea of 2016's offerings. Our thought was each and every coach manufacturer that survived 2008 - 2011 had pros and cons that appeal to their customer base and allowed them to remain in operation, although as we know a few had to seek additional assistance thru the courts. Last month we spent two (2) long full days at Tampa RV Super show, after reviewing all of 2016's offerings we elected not to upgrade to any of this years makes or models. In summery as so many others have already stated, every coach and floor plan has its pros and cons. So the question is really yours. What best meets your travel needs and life style ? What keeps her happy? As so many of us already know..... Happy wife happy life, upset wife miserable life.

Hitch "pull capacity" have you looked at DMI hitches ? We use them for pulling gravity wagons = no tongue weight how ever the units with bin extensions can weigh 6 to 13 tons. So now back to your question on "certified hitch" for weight pulled, with no tongue weight. Here is the base unit, you would have to work with DMI on flange adapters. Or consider a local custom vehicle fabrication shop, they can fab adapters to your coach frame rails. Hope this is of assistance. http://www.reese-hitches.com/products/DMI_Quic_n_Easy_Trailer_Hitch_Receiver_,47070007

1.) Can it run on 50 amp electric service regardless of outside temperature? Yes, although diesel heats much faster, then electric element does well keeping room temperature. 2.) If I run it in diesel mode, how much fuel does it use per hour? I have AquaHot 450D and use about 1.5 gallons thru the night, with out use of 12.5Kw generator, much quieter and substantially less fuel used. 3.) My new coach also has 3 air conditioners with heat pumps, to what temperature are they effective? Each heat pump is slightly different, age, humidity, etc. although most will function to low 40's 4.) Will I have on demand hot water regardless of which system I use? Yes although if you want high volume usage (shower) diesel will provide unlimited HOT water, where electric element will deliver hot water to begin with, dropping to warm. Enjoy your new unit as I went from 2003 Winnebago with 10 gallon electric propane heater, to 2014 Entegra AquaHot. Believe me when I say you won't regret the change. You will need to preform proper annual maintenance.

For all insurance I use USAA for well 30+ years now, as they don't write RV policies they sent me to Insured By Foremost Insurance Group Manage My Policy 1-800-315-1122 Mon-Fri, 7:30 a.m. - 7:00 p.m. CT Sat-Sun, Closed Although Foremost was $67 more a year, I will stay with USAA for the level of service they offer me.

Oh my good lord !! You receive the patience of saint hood award my friend.

I agree with previous post. Contact company by e-mail "proof of service" give them notice of your intent to file complaint with; State Attorney General Office for Consumer Affairs Better Business Bureau If no reply ( 3-5 ) days, file your complaint(s) and wait for them to contact you. It can take time so be ready for a wait...... I live in Ohio, my Attorney General has a well-documented history of "fighting bad companies" best wishes on your resolve.

National chains have on line booking ( KOA, Jellystone, etc.) the smaller parks have pressure from several outside sources and seem to reply on "word of mouth" or some of the newer online peer review website / apps like "RV Parky" Many of these camp grrounds are family owned 20, 30 and 40+ years they have a very loyal local customer base and just don't require on line registration to "meet" their business model.

I use "Catseyes" no batteries, "quick" visual yet allows for recheck using pressure gauge. They do NOT alert drive to loss of tire pressure "blowout" while driving. http://www.linkmfg.com/products/cats-eye/ The over riding theme is proper inflation and checking of pressure, coupled with proper maintenance of tires. What has the greatest bearing on traction, handling and braking........ tires. Happy motor coaching.

Here is my two cents on this topic and every person has an opinion. Having attended Diesel College and worked on Perkins, Waukesha, CAT 6803 V-8 and Cummins "B" series (that’s the old 5.9 - 12 & 24 valve series) found in Dodge pickups, White & AGCO agricultural equipment. Remember Diesel engines work on the principle of heat of compression (adiabatic combustion) not external ignition (spark plug) that’s why in warmer air diesel engines get higher fuel efficiency. However to increase gasoline engine power you cool the air (cool can) to make the air more dense so more air (oxygen) can be compressed into a cylinder. The way you can increase air (oxygen) in any cylinder you can either use a super charger or turbo. Turbo chargers are more efficient at higher engine RPM’s and much smaller that’s why they are used extensively. The major drawback to turbo use is “turbo lag” the turbo charger has to spool up or increase the engine RPM, which then results in increased “boost” or air pressure being forced into the cylinders. Turbo chargers through the use of waste gates and increased manifold air pressure results in increased fuel economy, acceleration this also results in turbo charged engines not suffering from the effects of “thin air” (decreased TORR / atmospheric pressure) at higher elevations. All combustion engines need air in (oxygen) and air out (exhaust). There are several ways to increase the efficiency of any engine resulting in increased MPG. Below are items for any owner operator to consider for increased efficiency and reliability of their unit. Replace your paper air filter with a cotton / oil filter there are several suppliers including ( K&N, Pro-Guard, Summit and many more ) These filters allow more air to flow through with less restriction. The use of cotton-oil filters can void your warranty, you will have to ask your mechanic or check your state laws. Increase the size of exhaust, larger diameter exhaust decreases engine back pressure resulting in the motor not working as hard to expel the exhaust, this also lowers the engine operating temperature. However the exhaust can’t be so large so as to decrease back pressure or the efficiency of the turbo is effected. Computer Chip, there are several who have well documented increases in MPG (Banks Power, Bullydog, Hyperchip and several others) however they usually require some time to install. Some of these chips will increase HP as well, yet this will result in decreased MPG. (Research, Research and Research your needs and ask others before you buy any of these units) Transmission, shift points, clutch band adjustments, fluid and fluid filter. Maintenance of your transmission will result in a quieter, smoother and higher MPG. Don’t skip the maintenance on your transmission. The current standard from Allison (3000 & 4000 series) is six (6) speed transmissions; expect to see eight (8) speed units in less then 10 years. If your power unit was produced with a catalytic converter installed, don’t remove it (you won’t get a two (2) MPG increase) you do risk a EPA violation citation. Use of motor treatments there are several on the market however they break down into two (2) major groups. Oil Anti-Friction Treatment TFE commonly called Teflon, Graphite and lastly Moly. The major issue with all of these products are they are suspended in a oil. (Remember basic chemistry suspensions are solid matter contained in a liquid) When these products are used they “build-up” or coat the motor there by potentially taking your motor out of operational tolerances. Metal Conditioners ( IXL, ER= Energy Release) These products are typically 3-5 microns in size and “condition” the metal on the surface level, that is supposed to result in decreased friction, increasing MPG. If you decide to use a motor treatment consult with your mechanic or do your own research as both groups have pros and cons. I am hopeful that at least one person takes something away from this post. Happy Motor Coaching everyone.