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jleamont

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Posts posted by jleamont


  1. 14 hours ago, FIVE said:

    and still charge $25 or more per hour

    Yes, I have heard of this before, but it was ALL Motorhomes every place I have worked. It was done due to the complexity of more items being in the engine bay, more difficultly in determining and obtaining parts, different wiring diagrams (often there was no wiring diagram and several systems were tied into the chassis) several manufactures overlapping and dealing with people hanging out while it was being worked on. 


  2. Eric, fuel rail pressure code has nothing to do with a loose fuel cap. Gasoline engines monitor fuel tank pressure for evaporative emissions, diesels do not.

    Most times fuel rail pressure faults are from clogged fuel filters or a sticking fuel return check valve. Other areas could be a faulty fuel injection pump, fuel leak (internal or external) or fuel injectors.

    Could it have been a glitch, absolutely, should it come back on have it looked at ASAP.  

    I agree, that is a handy tool to have!


  3. 41 minutes ago, OldBeaver said:

    Thanks all. The RV is in Ontario OR at Royal's Truck snd Diesel Repair right now. It was recomended as the place to go by the manager and service guy at Love's and it has great internet reviews.

    The thumping did go away after new tires were put on. 

    I am not the one doing the repair but I do appreciate all the opinions. There is a lot of experience on these forums.

    Even though I am not doing the work, having this information is very important. 

    Let us know what they find.


  4. 5 minutes ago, DickandLois said:

    Ditto, Ditto. We are on the same page. LOL

    Rich.

    :lol: great minds think alike! I was thinking that or the tow truck driver dropped it and dented the tube. 

     

    1 hour ago, OldBeaver said:

    After picking up the RV from the mechanic it went to Les Schwab for 6 new tires.

    I am guessing you didn't observe this vibration between the repair shop and tire shop or were the conditions not correct to make it happen? 


  5. 1 hour ago, OldBeaver said:

    The tow truck driver removed the drive shaft before towing.

    Would you happen to know if it was unbolted at each end when removed or slid off of the splines on one end? Sounds like the drive shaft is out of phase. JUST make certain you let the current shop know the full timeline of events. It could speed up their diagnosis which will save you $$


  6. Blue is the power line to the trailer brakes, red is typically the ignition feed. The Green is throwing me off, that's a new one...

    Assuming this is an trailer electric brake controller? 

    Is there a model number associated with the unit? ESSBC and neither is EPCO for a manufacture isn't coming up on a quick web search.


  7. 7 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    Except for the problem of are you going to watch it all the time?

    I have almost the same device (older version, same manufacture) plugged into an outlet inside. It has a very loud annoying alarm if the voltage dips or rises within a specified threshold. Its actually more sensitive than my TRC or Progressive EMS which was a huge benefit. 

    While it will not shut you off, when it alarms you know to dig deeper into the problem before it becomes a bigger problem. Where the EMS comes in hand is when you are not there and it will automatically shut off the coach power or if something ugly happens for the most part you are protected. I believe a true power surge from a storm it wouldn't help much. Voltage would cross it so fast the coach would get whacked. I unplug during those and run off of battery or generator.


  8. These work well for their intended design, which is weight swings of several thousand pounds on a CMV to make certain an axle isn't overloaded.

    On an RV the weight swing would be items packed to bring on a trip which is minimal comparatively speaking. I am not so sure the cost would weigh the benefit. One more thing to go wrong and leak air on a vehicle that most don't understand how to properly check their air system prior to leaving already.

    My experience with similar devices they only provide weights in 50 or 100 lb increments, unless your DW really packs heavy it could always report the same weight, in that case it would work the first time for your base weights and become useless afterwards.


  9. 8 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    The max wheelbase is 176" This is what drives the problem because it is as long of a driveline as they build. If you want a longer RV you have to add to the rear overhang. 

    Bill, my C had 176" in the door jamb (ford decal) but measured 201". Coachmen spliced the frame between the axles. I also had frame extensions after the rear axle which were 8' long. Both caused my tow rating to drop from the original chassis recommendation of 7500 lbs down to 2500 lbs. The cross members after axle were flimsy, I guess to keep the weight down which I believe was the main cause for the towing reduction. I had 11' 5" total length behind the rear axle, it got interesting when turning corners, you really had to pay attention.


  10. Mike, I am going to make your head spin more. I have no idea the "probes" they are speaking of however all of our Freightliner trucks at work with the ISB came from Freightliner with RED Extended life coolant and have for the last 5 years. They were spec'd that way, they also came with this sticker on the coolant reservoir (photo'd below). 

    This goes back to what you have already experienced, if you call back you will most likely get a different answer. I converted out 2002 Cummins over to Nitrate free coolant last year so I didn't have to fuss with checking it. If you ask the Cummins dealer you will most likely have that as an option. 

    IMG_1820.jpg

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