jleamont
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Posts posted by jleamont
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I believe this topic has ran its course and it’s time to close it.
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4 hours ago, DickandLois said:Mark, The Fuel lines and some other items in the supply system where used before the introduction of Bio Diesel.
Bio brakes down the fuel lines, seals and the lift pump. the particles wind up in the fuel tank and filters.
The best fix is to replace all the fuel line with B-20 grade, the fuel return lines,the lift pump if it is older and a Cummins and any seals that have not been replaced in the supply and return system while the conversion was is progress.
Rich.
This happened to me. I had deteriorated rubber that broke down, reminded me of chunky blackberry jelly with stainless steel chards in it. When I found it at the primary fuel filter check valve I knew I found the culprit.
At first it looked like algae, the metal and chunks in it were the clue.
Our coach fuel system was plumbed with Hydraulic hose from the factory. I replaced all of the fuel supply hoses with a much higher quality of hydraulic hose that was rated for bio diesel also.
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Kay brought up a good point question.
Fresh water hose maintenance.
1, Do you keep it full of water and connect the ends together?
2, empty it and leave it air out?
3, empty it and connect the ends together?
I have also watched a camper blow compressed air through one and connect the ends together.
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4 hours ago, cbdeajr said:Looking to replace the tires on my 33 MH. Was thinking about Hankook as I only put 3500-5000 miles per year on them, But I have seen a lot of negative reviews fo Hankook tires on car but not seeing much on RV tires. Any suggestion?
Thanks
cbdeajr, I have them on our toad and I ran them commercially on a truck fleet a few years back. I cannot say anything bad about them. They did what they were supposed to on the commercial fleet to and were cost effective.
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We base the water level off of the trip;
- Short trip to the beach (3 hours) 1/4 tank for toilet flushing.
- Day trip to another destination with no showers involved around 1/2 tank.
- If we plan on boondocking along the way somewhere for the night, full water tank. Any excess water remaining we use at the destination then switch over to camp ground water. Any residual water, I open the tank drain to get it all out.
I really don't feel any difference with the fresh tank full or not in the performance or handling of the coach. I'm sure it makes some difference but as to how much I do not know.
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29 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:Joe, the way DD described is the best way, use the 15 gallons with 1 pint, flush the system, then finish filling with fresh water. I usually try to deplete as much of the 15 as possible before filling the tank.
That seemed too simple to work effectively. I was always under the impression you had to fill the fresh tank with the proper ratio of HP and run it all out through the system.
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I think one thing we need to keep in mind is the amount of product they produce vs the amount of complaints. They are the number one in the industry due to their marketing tactics. You cannot open any RV related Magazine and not see a Blue Ox add, which is impressive!
Said another way; If a company sells a million widgets and had 10 problems that could be considered a good ratio vs the company that sells 10,000 widgets and has 5 problems. Of those 5 problems how many took to the web to broadcast it, the company with 10 problems was 50% more likely to have 1 person complain on a forum.
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DD, whats the procedure with 100 gallons of fresh water capacity to get the entire system flushed with HP?
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9 hours ago, Timnjulie said:Put toothbrush in my coach toolbag
Try not to get it mixed up with the one near the sink
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42 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:(it's one of the better shots of me
)
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2 hours ago, 14Fleetwood said:What should I look for when I get in there?
I would place myself in a position for observation and ease of grasping the dash. While in that position try and push up on it and look off in the corners to see where the part moves and where other items don’t move. Then make my way deeper into it so I could see just where it’s loose at.
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I second Herman’s recommendation, this way you will know for sure and you can get the correct oil back into the engine.
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32 minutes ago, RSBILLEDWARDS said:I always have 2 primary 30 micron fuel filters in the coach spare parts box.
Great recommendation for a DIY person. At the very least carry the filters, should you need a filter change you can always pay a road side mechanic to install your filters. 95% of the battle would be locating the proper filters on the side of the road.
I had to replace our secondary filter at a rest stop on the way home from Tennessee in Virginia. I noticed the fuel pressure gauge dropping dramatically when pulling a hill.
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Puff, glad to hear! I am sure that took a load off of your shoulders.
Running the wire, I know on our construction it wouldn't be a simple task. Perhaps a small wire fish tape and see if it will go down the inside of wall to the basement ceiling, might take a helper to see if they can hear it knocking on the basement ceiling.
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11 hours ago, Navigator1 said:They were pretty bad, I just ordered some Biobor treatment and some more filters, in hopes that it will help getting rid of that nasty stuff, time will tell.
On your coach do you have full access to the fuel tank? Our our HR I can remove our fuel tank with little effort (after its emptied). It pulls right out of the compartment it resides in after removing 4 bolts, a few fuel lines and unplug the sending unit. That would give you an opportunity to clean it or take it somewhere for a good cleaning.
I'd even consider pressure washing the inside with it turned up on its end if its the same design as we have. You can see inside of ours easily through one of the fills, a small camera and it would be even easier. Just let it dry out for a few days on end, blow it out with compressed air and reinstall it.
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5 minutes ago, HeatherRourke said:Have i done damage using the 20 instead of the 30?
I doubt there has been any damage created by this so soon. If it were being operated in a cold climate I would let it be, if operated in a warm/hot climate I would correct it.
I had the same year V10 in our old coach. I ran full synthetic 5W30 and a Motorcraft oil filter (you can get them at Walmart).
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That is the correct dip stick for an F53.
1 hour ago, HeatherRourke said:Is that just where it slides along the inside of the tube? Or is that the actual oil level mark?
Are you certain that the oil isn't so clean you just cannot see it? You could be seeing where its touching the tube. It might be best to let it sit overnight and pull the stick in the morning, that will give you the easiest reading and use the reading on the first pull. Make sure to rotate the stick over and see if the side without the writing reads, sometimes it can make it easier to actually see the level.
Your engine is a 6 quart system with the filter per Ford; Super Premium SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil XO-5W30-QSP
Later years went to 5W20 weight oil and 7 quarts.
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8 hours ago, HeatherRourke said:I am not positive how to tell if it is the correct or original dip Stick.
Can you photo the handle and the lower portion of the stick and attach them?
7 hours ago, HeatherRourke said:i can’t imagine that I went through the 6 quarts and 2 more
When there is nothing on the stick it doesn't mean there is no oil in the engine, it just means there is not enough to register on the stick.
How many quarts were put in the engine when the oil was changed?
7 hours ago, HeatherRourke said:Why do people change dipsticks?
On a large diesel engine there were many instances where the coach builder altered the dip stick on the engine and the readings were never verified. On a F53 its highly unlikely, or shall I say all of the coaches I worked on (more than I can count over a 20 year period) over the years it they were always straight from Ford as the F53 came with the dip stick in the perfect location.
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8 hours ago, Navigator1 said:If I do have to replace the turbo unit, any special one better than others, any good upgrades, how much will it set me back?
Well, I am sure there is something for more performance but probably a lot more money than the original. In my experience with engines of this era, turbo chargers don't normally fail, they become damaged from operator error.
Those filters look terrible. It begs the question on what the remaining fluids look like in the engine? How old is the coolant and transmission fluid?
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If you saw oil on the stock after shutdown it’s safe to say there is oil in the pan. I and also assuming you had oil pressure on the gauge?
It sounds to me it’s just that low on oil or the stick is t fully seated. I personally would verify the stick is fully seated and if so add another 1/2 quart and check the dip stick. If there is oil present keep adding until close to full.
Don’t start the engine during all of this. It will just confuse the situation with the oil splashing around and really only proves there is some oil in the oil pan.
There is no way to check it without draining the pan and measuring it out.
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The reason for an inspection of both sides, when the exhaust side fails often the bearings will fail from being out of balance and the compressor turbine will make contact with the housing. This will send metal down into the engine intake.
I have seen many engine failures from this and equally scratched my head wondering on others than had no symptoms of engine failure and ran many years and miles afterwards. I’d say the ratio has been 50/50.
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I would remove the air intake and exhaust pipe and take a look to see if you can identify where that shrapnel came from. With those open you should be able to see the compressor turbine on one side and exhaust turbine on the other.
If possible take some pictures and post them on here.
Did the engine smoke? I wouldn’t start it at this point until after you verify where those pieces of metal came from.
Replacing the turbocharger doesn’t usually require special tools, just some patience as bolts might not be cooperative.
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1 hour ago, RayIN said:These days I will not use 200G of diesel in 6 months, since DW cannot travel much since the wreck.
So sorry to hear that!
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22 minutes ago, wayne77590 said:Sent in Application.
Wayne, is this the card you are referring to?
one leveling jack does not fully extend
in Leveling
Posted · Report reply
A typical hydraulic ram only needs pressure on the correct side to extend. I am not familiar with you system, a sensor that controls a solenoid to open that hydraulic valve for a particular jack would certainly make sense.
You definitely want to speak to the manufacturer. Testing hydraulic pressure is not typically something a DIY’er can perform. They might have a way to test the electronics and rule those out first.
Let us know how you make out.