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jleamont

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Posts posted by jleamont


  1. Wow!!

    Ours is a Samsung LED, it’s very light weight. I mounted the brackets so the tv and sound bar actually rest on the rubber feet under the sound bar against the bottom of the cabinet. I purposely did this so they are not suspended in the air to avoid TV damage. I’m sure the tv by itself would be ok but the sound bar mounted to the tv was a concern. When you press the TV back it also sits on the old wood on the sides. I cut them specifically for that tv on the last installation so it would sit flush with the cabinet. As long is it doesn’t squeak I’ll be ok.

    I also bought the mount that is designed for a tv up to 70 lbs. I figured that was a good idea since it’s going into a RV. 

    I’ll have more photos today, I’m waiting for the stain to dry on the wood trim.


  2. If it were me I’d take Richard’s advice on the chassis and house batteries, how old, are they clean, terminals maintained and no crud buildup on top? If original they need to be pulled and tested. This should give you a good baseline at the beginning of the circuit.

    Still have a draw, I have always gone to route Brett recommended above. For the starter unhook the battery cable, Alternator UN hook all connnections, do them one at a time, same with the fuses and watch the ammeter. If you can employ a helper, it will be easier on you and faster.


  3. Richard, we are feeling it here in PA also! Got the roads washed over the last two days with heavy rain, no salt or sodium chloride to be seen anywhere. Hopefully it stays that way. 50 degrees today supposed to hit 60 next week.

    Adding the sound bar to the front tv in the coach tomorrow and probably gonna service the generator. That ought to really trigger the itch! Too bad I have no trips planned until the middle of June :wacko:

    Brett great idea :lol:, DW wants a baby goat, need to add you and Diane to the list of people to keep away from my wife or I’m liable to end up with a goat :lol:


  4. 2 hours ago, huffypuff said:

    DW to be gentle on these slides or the proper procedures

    Ahh, you have the same issue as me! Mine holds the button in until the clutch slips rather than letting off of it when you hear it bog down. 


  5. 2 hours ago, manholt said:

    I depend more on the rear camera, than side cameras.  

    Ditto! I use the rear camera to change lanes after I see i'm clear in the mirror, I can make sure the toad is clear (if traffic is gaining on me). Its easier to use the camera for that than trying to see that distance in my pathetic mirrors.


  6. Puff, if it were me id consider a Grade 5 or a shear bolt (like a snow blower drive bolt). Grade 8 could potentially be too strong and in the event of a binding you would want that to be the point of failure, not the gear box.


  7. Puff, I feel your pain!

    Shortly after we bought our HR the bedroom slide wouldn't close properly, I thought it was a clutch adjustment, turned out the bed frame was broken causing the rollers to hop off of the stainless steel plates they ride on which made the slide close crooked. I still have no idea how the frame broke, but I got a first hand experience with the track system and motor. I remember thinking how happy I was that it was still operational to open for access. I was impressed at how robust the drive unit was, looked like everything was made from Billet Aluminum, not what I had expected to see. 


  8. I have often thought of adding side cameras to ours, I thought it might be helpful with lane changes at night. My concern was removing my eyes off the road to check the monitor would be more of a hazard than analyzing the mirror situation as I can still see whats ahead while scanning mirrors, cant do that while looking into the monitor. 

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