dbelanger

Just put bleach into my fresh water system. Many years ago I had a procedure that added a step: after draining the bleach solution out add fresh water with X amount of baking soda to the fresh water system, leave it in there for X hours then replace the tankfull with clean water. This was supposed to eliminate the residual taste. Does anyone have info to fill in the X's

I have a 2007 Fleetwood Pace Arrow on a Ford Chasis. All I get is an average 6.8 (all fuel used since I bought it new) But I tow a Ford Focus that weighs only 2500 lbs. Your coach's combined vehicle weight is somewhere in the neighborhood of 26,000 lbs. The Jeep takes you close or over that. I had a 2000 Holiday Rambler on a Ford Chasis that could get 10.5 with no tow.

Have a friend who had a Montana LLC. He could not get an extended warranty company to sell him a warranty. Wouldn't sell to a corporation. You may have better luck.

This may be of interest to all: Recently installed an inverter and one thing I did was use the same ground connection, to the RV frame, that the house batteries use. Everything worked fine on the day of install. After parking the coach for about a month with the battery disconnect operated we fired everything up and went on a trip. After parking for a week at a RV park we disconnected from shore power and had no 12 volt power to the house. Voltmeter would drop to zero as soon as anything was turned on. Dead batteries, right? Wrong. Somehow that ground connection had an impedance of infinity. Removed ground, applied sandpaper and a couple of star lock washers to bite into the metal all is again OK.

We have a KVH Satellite dish on our rig. It is not an in motion unit. I have to shut off the unit once we acquire a signal as the Class A gas chasis even when jacked up and leveled moves enough when we walk around or move in bed to start the dish searching for signal. It may not be the inverter

I couldn't find the fuse for the 12 volt outlets in my 07 Pace Arrow. Called Fleetwood and they sent an electrical diagram of my coach by email and suggested I look in the area near my 110 volt panel for a coach 12 volt fuse panel. With that advice and the diagram in hand I found it in the bathroom cupboard just below the circuit breakers. They had put a 10 amp fuse into the circuit instead of the 15 amp required and my 12 volt tool took it out as soon as I tried to use it.

Got a modified sine wave inverter I bought at Harbor Freight. My digital volt meter reads 90 volts. My camping world volt meter (plugs into an outlet and is analog) reads 125 volts. Everything works fine and I am and will remain happy with whatever the thing produces for a waveform. Was cheap works fine.

Stay awhile is the best way to go as, Tbutler says. My Pace Arrow came with a device like stay awhile but minus the external tank feature. I could use the grille but had to depend on the built in propane tank for the coach. Added the stay awhile anyway as we stay in one location all winter and moving the coach to refil it is not an option.

Home from Florida and after 1800 plus miles everything still working. Guess the glue did the trick (for the time being). We shouldn' have to go to these extremes to enjoy the things we paid for and expect to work out of the box

My Holiday Rambler (2000) had a printed decal on the roof just behind the front cap "Cut here for satellite dish cables." That cable may also go to one of the compartments to allow connection of a tripod mounted or some other portable satellite antenna.

Purchased a 2007 Pace Arrow in February of 2008 from Lazydays RV in Seffner Florida. During the delivery process we noticed that the DVD player was not supplying video or audio to the front TV. Lazydays tech's removed the TV from the overhead console and found that the 3 RCA plugs, from the distribution switch, were not connected to the TV. Plugs were reinserted, problem solved. After a 500 mile trip to Miami, and back, to our winter home in our new rig, we found that we again could not watch DVD's. A quick removal of the 4 screws holding a panel beneath the TV, Watched the Lazydays guys do it, I could see the cables were again disconnected. I guessed that insufficient slack was left in them, removed the TV, pulled a bit of slack toward the TV, reinserted the plugs, put t all back together again, fixed. Got back to Maine in April and installed a spare Satellite TV box in the rig and while running the cables behind the TV, to the distribution switch, noticed the plugs on the back of the TV had again fallen off. Got a cable clamp out of my junk box and secured those cables and everything else going to theTV so this would never happen again! After a few short trips to local campgrounds over Maine's excellent roads I had no satellite or DVD signals going to the front TV. Decided that this was an entirely different problem than just a cable tugging on the TV when rough roads were encountered. TV came out of the overhead again, mounts checked, vibration snubbers adjusted (2 threaded rods with rubber pads on the end that can be adjusted against the rear of the TV), cable slack re adjusted Etc.. Another road trip cables off again. When the set was removed again I discovered that the holes in the back of the TV (Samsung flat screen 29") were about the same diameter as the vinyl plastic covers (red, white, and yellow) on the RCA plugs. When normal road vibrations occurred the inner jacks move or don't move at a different rate/distance as the plastic back panel of the TV and cause the plugs to work loose and fall off the jacks. A quick fix was to cut the plastic off the plugs with a utility knife allowing more clearance for them through the TV back panel. While I was at it I installed another cable from the Video and Audio out of the TV over to a spare input on the receiver to allow the home entertainment system high quality audio to be enjoyed when watching the off air and satellite programing. Something I can't understand why Fleedtood didn't think of. Cut the vinyl sheathing off those plugs too. When I got back to Florida this winter everything was OK but the right channel of my TV to receiver cable (several others were loose). When I removed the TV this time I put a light adhesive on all the plugs. Stay tuned for the outcome. After all this I called Fleetwood and inquired if they had encountered other customers with this problem. According to them, none had. I requested mechanical drawings of the 07, 08, and 09 Pace Arrow front TV mountings hoping to find an engineering change that I could do or have done to remedy this problem short of buying a different TV. They are all identical to my setup. No help there. Has anyone out there had this problem with a Samsung TV or Fleetwood RV? Has anyone been able to find a solution? I'd be very interested if you have.

Own a 2007 Pace Arrow 36' with the V10. Had a 2000 HR Vacationer 36', it also had a V10 with less Horsepower and better mileage. Tow vehicle for the HR and at the beginning with the Pace Arrow was a 4000 Lb Suzuki XL-7 and I could get 10 MPG with the HR if I drove the speed limit and avoided hills. Did the math on the Banks System and decided I could live with the long slow hill climbs. After trading for my new coach I had it weighed with me, a full water, gas, and Propane tanks and the Suzuki in tow. The combined vehicle weight limit for my Pace Arrow is 26,000 Lbs. My weight was 25,500 Lbs. and that was without the usual cargo we carry to our winter home. I traded my wife's old Pontiac for a Ford Focus 2500 Lbs. curb weight. Mileage with or without the Focus in tow is 8 Mpg with much better hill climbing speed available. Anyone towing a large SUV with a large gas motorhome is overweight right out of the dealers lot. I also save lots of greenbacks at 36 Mpg highway with the Focus (Stick Shift). I think buying the small car, which is usefull every day, is a better investment than the performance exhaust system and, buy the way, the 07 Ford exhaust sounds great compared to the older 2000 chasis system.

Had that problem on my old coach, 2000 HR Vacationer. Removed unit from the wall and found that over time moisture entering the coach through the small hole in the wall behind the controller had rotted the printed circuit board in a very small area near whe RJ-11 socket on the board. Soldered a small section of #22 wire across the rotted area and I had a brand new controller

Seems to me that an Autoformer added to a circuit that was low in voltage due to current limiting wire size, dirty contacts, or any other fault would only force the circuit to supply more current to help the transformer produce a higher voltage than that supplied by the line. You might get away with that and solve your problem but you probably would be reducing the power available to everyone else on your leg of the campground circuit. Not a very neighborly thing to do.