garyreed

The adjustment is usually on the pulley side of the ear that it bolts to. Unless the bottom mount ( the hole might be egg shaped) and bolt is worn out, I am not sure the adjuster arm can pull the alternator out of line. Is the A/C compressor mounting solid? Can you take a picture from the top looking down towards the crank? The reason I question the idler is that in most cases the leading pulley will push the belt to the next. one. In this case engine rotation would be crank, idler, A/C, atl. if it does not climb the alt then it has to be in the idler or A/C. Gary

Looking at this picture, you replaced the #6 tensioner at the same time? Were they exactly the same with the alignment tit in the same spot? I know it is a pain, but have you put the old one back one to see if that helps the alignment? that is the only thing besides the belt that is different. Gary

Is the A/C pump above the alternator or below it? If below I would ckeck the idler pulley under the A/C this may cause the belt to ride up on the A/C. Also is the A/C straight, and not tilted down a hair? if the belt is riding up the pulley while being turned by hand, there is a major mis-alignment. Is the belt routing correct and not trying to run over a bolt or bracket. I have found quite a few different mountings and roures, not sure what you have. Gary

If the pulley was not removed, then if I understand correctly, only the rear housing would be removed to replace the brushes. That would leave the front mounts unchanged. Is this a 4 bolt pad mount or a 2 bolt mount ( long bolt as the hinge with short bolt on the adjustment slide)? Is it possible to have the alternator on the wrong side of the mount? Is it possible that the pulley may have not lined up when you pulled it apart? You sound as though you are fairly handy in the repair arena, But if you are not looking for that issue than it may have been hard to see and the last guy may have been lucky. Can that pulley be turned around or shimmed as another poster mentioned? Just some thoughts. Gary

Bill, I think you hit the nail on the head they may be trying to pass the buck. There are a lot of independent shops that can do the right work but they are hard to find. Gary

Phil, You might be getting a snow job. It is true that in some cases synthetic oils will leak when used with old seals but with new seals there should not be an issue. That seal may have been damaged during instalation, It does take a special installer. Gary

Sorry Bill. I was going to reply to you're post earlier and forgot. The DDEC 1 did have fewer diagnostic options but were incredibly bullet proof. Thinking back I worked on a NEOPLAN bus and it had a 6V92 silver and was one of the very first DDEC. If my memory serves me correctly had a similar issue , no check engine and some power loss, turned out to be a ruptured hose between the air intake on the motor and the intake on the air compressor. Very hard to find as it was blown next to the head and the hose that was visable looked perfect. Most of those hoses were plumbed into the air cleaner side of the intake and not the pressure side. Most truck shops probably do not have a clue on those since no trucks had them. Stewart Stevenson here in Colorado has an exellent generator division and were able to help with any issues I had mostly with the older ones. I will check my notes and see if I jotted down anything else. Gary

Don, What was repaired three years ago? Did it involve the steering? Could be u-joints in the steering shaft binding. Do you have a tilt column? Is it tight with no wobble side to side? Check for something rubbing the shaft. When it will not turn left, Does that mean the steering wheel will not turn left at all from center but will turn right? has it been in a front wreck of any kind? Very scary issue. Gary

You are right Bill, piece of mind carries a lot of weight. We do not let ours set much over a month if that at any given time. My piece of mind will come when these tires reach about 5 years old and I replace them and sell the old ones to a local company to run out on dirt trailers. Gary

Thanks bill, I have never given much thought to chemical migration. So the only product mentioned through out this post might be teflon, but if I remember science class teflon also comes from oil. That would leave only raw wood, nothing treated including plywood. As far as tire set, we were schooled many years that the manufaturing proccess and materials used produced little to no set at full inflation unlike their predecessors the bias ply. I might be able to see lifting some weight of with the jacks, but that might put undo hardship on the hydrualic system. Just wondering. Gary

Just curious, What are the benefits of elavating the tires on rubber or wood? Gary

Are you sure it is the motor? I read in a recall notice that the relay or something was an issue on some models. Do you have it out? if so please post a picture if possible. It may be possible to interchange with one similar. If you are handy and have auto experience get on the web and try sites like Bill suggested and see if you can match it up. I have found on my RV that once I can describe it, the local CarQuest of Napa can find it. One example is my 98 alegro Bus has a headlight switch the same as a early 90's ford pickup. Gary

I am sorry MWeiner I did not mean to bruise you're ego with the Chinook similarity. To each his own. The Chinook for it's day had a lot of nice features and the parents traveled all over and had a blast, after all that is what we all strive for in the end right? What are you asking for or trying to get at in the comments above? If it is to be top dog on MPG with 18, I can almost say for certain that among class A's you can be top dog as I personally do not know of any getting close to that. $150000 may be top of the line in the van conversion world but in the RV world it may be at the low end. With conversion vans I do not have a clue. My inlaws had some kind of a Chevy similar looks to the one in you're profile, they said it would get 20-22 but it just had a gasser Mercedes makes some fine commercial and militatry vehicles although I am not a fan of some of the autos they produce. The non conversion vans that I have been around, mostly delivery and service vans, lacked a little power up here in Colorado but I think they had the lower hp 5 cylinder motors and might have weighed more than a conversion. I would bet that the top of the line van conversion would have the more powerful 6 cylinder. What does you're conversion have? Like I said to each his own. I bought my RV to have fun, travel and open the kids eyes to new adventures. Although we have never been turned away for a camp ground or resort we are not the most expensive or the fanciest on the grounds. We have met lots of wonderful people. That is what it is all about. Gary

The Phaeton has air brakes right? It should have a connector to plug an air hose into in one of the compartments. Possibly one of the front ones on the right side. Gary

Wolfe10, I also monitor MPG so I have an idea on where to fuel next. Gary

Bill, Is your 92 a silver? I have worked on those in years past and still love the way they sound today. Wolfe10, My first Rv experience was at seven or eight in the early 70's and involved a 57 Chevy bus convert and our friends had a 50's cadillac front end and some kind of a camper mounted on the back. the other friend had a early 60's GMC pickup with an overhead camper and that humungus V6. And those were some very happy memories and I to would not want to go back. Gary

I agree with you MWeiner, The better the MPG the more cost savings per year or mile how ever you want to look at it. When a person looks at purchasing an RV all the numbers need to be looked at and the right RV must be selected on what you are willing to spend including the purchase price. In the 80's and 90's my parents traveled the country in a Toyota Chinook, similar in size to your's, it also got 15 + MPG and served them well. They also had no kids, pets or toad and when they needed to take their Bronco II my mom drove it which added to the expense. I am not knocking anyone for their preferences on what they want or can spend, or what the choose to drive. My analysis may be simplistic, but works for me. Expences for the year: propane, fuel, oil, insurance, camp grounds etc. compared to expenses for the same number of nights including gas, oil, flights, car rentals hotels etc. I then factor in the comfort I get from sleeping my own bed and using my own toilet, taking the dogs, and the sights that I might otherwise miss. The RV will win out 99% of the time. We are going to travel whether we use an RV or a hotel room so it boils down to want for your money vs what you get for your money. If it was only the money, I would drive a Volt or Leaf or something and sleep in a tent. Gary

7.5 - 10, Coach + Toad on trailer weighs around 37000. MPG is figured fillup to fillup and not adjusted for generator, hiway or intown, mountian or flat, wind or no wind and I usually drive the speed limit or a couple over. It is what it is. There have been thousands of dollars spent to get 1/2 mpg increase and if you want bragging rites then go for it On a year to year figure I believe fuel in most cases will be one of the least expensive costs of ownership. Just my two cents Gary

I can agree with underinflation, also most would be road hazzards such as curbs, rocks, railroad tracks and a number of other debris dropped or somehow ended up on the road or close to it. A lot of damages happen in RV parks, parking lots and other areas while traveling at very low speed and may not show up till hyway speed and many miles later. Gary

If it has a steel resevoir it may have a drain plug. In the mid nineties PACCAR products recomended 15-40 in their units, the feeling we had was that it kept the driver from buying oddball fluids on the road. most carried motor oil. I agree with the OEM, the dipstick may give the recomended fluid. Gary

I forgot to mention, not to many power steering fluids are red, has someone added transmission fluid to the steering. Not the end of the world, but steering fluid is best. Gary

Yes Byron, mine has the same same one that you can see the fluid in and I have never had to add either.My HWH is in the front above the genset. I did have to add a tiny bit to that one. And Brett is right about the filter in the reservoir and with that many miles probably should be changed. dddlin, If you have a dipstick and it is on the top of the resevoir, you should be able to take the top off to get to the filter. Just make sure the new filter has the same sealing sufaces and get the spring and washer back on the top. The outer diameter might be a little bigger or smaller but the length should be the same. Gary

The hydrualic for the power steering or the levelers? Sounds like the power steering. Is the fluid clear or black? If black the pump may be sucking some oil from the motor. If it shows air bubbles it may be the suction line between the res and pump. Gary

The propane thing was very funny, I hope you were just kidding. Since working on diesel engines starting in the early 80's many have tried and failed with that system add on and have tossed lots of money in the can. I was told by some old time mechanics that it was used mainly for more power before turbos and when motors were natuarally asperated and blowers were the only power upgrade available. The diesel then was like oil compared to what we have now. The last customer of mine to try propane was a 2004 C-15 Cat 550hp. After 3 in-frame overhauls in around 100000 miles he finally gave up. He did gain power and mpg but it came at a high cost. just my two cents. Gary

Sounds like it could be the engine idle may not be right, either to slow or to fast. Gary