tireman9

Be careful with "beads". Some tire companies may VOID the warranty if they learn you have used something inside the tire.

Visual of the inside of a tire may reveal something you do not see on the outside of a tire when mounted B U T you are still not seeing the critical location of a tire which for radials is inside the structure at the outer ends of the steel belts. Unless you have specialized inspection equipment ($$$$$$$$$) you can't "see" the location of interest. Based on years of experience 10 years is the MAX for tire use as the odds are against you.

You will find that with a few exceptions from Michelin almost all tires (LT and commercial) have the same load capacity when inflated to the same inflation.

The "Fix" makes sense now that I have more info. The grey tank has direct connection to shower but there is a Hepvo "valve" horizontal and maybe the "nose down" of the RV prevents water to flow as that would put the exit not level which the HepVo wants. I think the sink drains into a different horizontal line which when tilted must block the flow into the tank and air flow out of the grey tank to the black tank vertical vent as it connects with a T fitting. Bit complex but as soon as I got close to level the sink and shower both drained quickly. So it looks like I will get to Gillette after all. Ain't RV life fun?

GREAT NEWS. IT"S FIXED. Forest River returned my call! After some conversation and discussion with a couple people at FR they asked how level was the coach. I said nose low 4" to 6" as that was where I park it in front of my shop when servicing the coach. They said to move it to level spot. I did and the sink immediately drained!!!!!! Am calling them back to thank them for the observation and suggestion.

Problem with using a plunger when you have a Hepvo it turns the rubber valve inside out. Had to remove the Hepvo and get the valve back in proper position. The fact that the shower also does not drain untill I open the grey dump valve points to there being no venting of the grey tank.

Yes not backward. Has worked for 5 years then stopped working last week. Only thing I did was rebuild the two gate valves.

I sent email to Service director at Coachmen asking about the venting of the grey tank. Right now it looks like I would need to remove the bathroom walls to find the T connection. Not gonna happen. I would leave a day early and park in front of Forest River in IL first and demand they tell me how to fix their poor design.

2016 22QB Class-C Coachmen coach. Have used it many times with no problems. Getting ready for 2021 season I re-built the 2 gate valves (Black and Grey water). Now I am having problems with the sink not draining. I have the HepVO waterless trap as OE. Have pulled it out and confirmed it is not blocked. With the grey tank dump valve open, I can pour a gal of water in the sink and it drains out. If I close the dump valve, I can fill the sink with water, and it does not drain. As soon as I open the grey tank dump valve the sink drains. There is only a single roof vent in this model MH. Sounds like a blocked grey tank vent but have no idea how or where FR ran the vent pipe. I assume they connected black and grey tanks to a single vent stack. The sink is not usable and we are leaving next week for a 3-1/2 week tour out west. Ideas appreciated. Have confirmed the shower also does not drain unless grey tank dump valve is open. Bath sink drains just fine. I thnk it drains to the black tank. Used hose in the roof vent and heard water hitting water but since the roof vent is directly above the black tank I am guessing the grey vent used a T to vent it. Can't get to the vent pipe without removing bathroom from the RV. Have contacted FR but am not holding my breath. This situation makes using the RV almost impossible and I'm supposed to go to Gillette July 1

Thanks. Do you ever have a problem of grease coming out the seal and getting on the brakes?

Thanks for the suggestion. As I prep for the drive to Gillette I will do a test of some different cleaning methods over on passenger side of windshield. If there are some different results I will try and post the comparison here.

Thanks have sent question to Dicor. Will post their answer.

Naw, I don't spit. I swallow.

Single axle box trailer with a Harley trike inside. 1. How often should the wheel bearings be lubed? XX miles? YY Months? 2. Have a recommendation for the best grease? Synthetic or just any name brand? 3. Is there a mileage for replacing the bearings assuming I follow the mileage in #1. above?

Most of the time my 2016 Class-C is under roof BUT the nose and front of the roof can get wet. If The RV is out of the "shed" the rain seems to be leaving whitish drip marks on the windshield where the water runs off the rubber roof. I can clean this stain off but it seems to take a lot of scrubbing. I have used Windex and other cleaners but I never seem to be able to get crystal clear windshield. Anyone have a solution. It's like a deposit from the rubber roof as the roof material ages. I have used the appropriate roof cleaner and protectent at least once a year.

Heavy Truck Rig with 18 wheels braking is two football fields at 65 mph. Just think of how many people you would be driving right over when they do something stupid like hard braking. You could easily drive right over three families before you stopped. But hey you got $20MIllion Liability insurance don't you.

We need to be careful when looking at tire speed, load, and inflation ratings. The information for one size or line (design) of tires does not apply to others. For RV application I would defer to the information found in the RV Information booklet.

After Gillette we are headed to Denver to sight see. I see they have an electronic toll ring road where they will mail you a bill. Back East if you do not have EZPass they will also mail you a bill but the "surcharge is a lot more then the toll is in many cases. Suggestions on what to do in Denver. I think I can just avoid the toll roads all together.

Can you find the reference for 81? According to the Michelin RV tire guide 75 is the max operation speed for RV application.

Many ? Most? TPMS have factory High Temp set to 158F (70C) I'm good with that and it should stop your false alarms, even in TX. No idea who set your TPM High Temp to 135F range. Too cool especially for TX. Tire Pressure changed about 2% for each change of 10F You can see the math HERE. https://www.rvtiresafety.net/2014/03/why-does-my-tire-loose-pressure-simple.html I did a POST on my blog just on the topic of how I set my TPMS ( Low & High) relative to my "cold set" pressure

Well in this case I have two off the wheels and they look fine. Will do the next two this fall so the RV is ready to head out in Feb. If I find any problems this fall I can just get the other 2. The intent of the post was to get the message across that I follow what I suggested in my post on doing a rolling change.

Where can you make even 1% APR on a savings account.? Not sure why you feel that my 6 year age is longer than "Acceptable time" Especially since I run with about 25% Reserve load as my coach is really light weight. Only driving down south is 2 trips OH to Perry in March. All other travel has been North of Mason Dixon line (OH, IN, IL, IA, SD, MT, NY and MA) so generally cooler than most others. I figure I can get a good price on the current tires that are less than 1/2 worn. My "Professional" inspection and my actual personal experience found the tires in good condition. I jsut felt that spreading purchase over 3 years and having newer tires on the front was a reasonable practice.

I think that you will find that the OC of the fromt pair will measure withing the 3/4" OC which is the spec for matching a pair of tires for dual position. So we consider the fronts a "pair" the Right duals a pair and the Left rear duals a pair. My suggestion to get 2 new tires a year over a 3 year period keeps each "pair" together. Just an idea that I believe in and am practicing on my RV.

If you read my blog you will see that I will change tires on one side one year. The other side the next year. FYI I also have a post on how to "match" duals if you ever need to replace one tire that is in a dual position. A bit of work but it avoids other problems.

Your times are correct for people in "Southern Tier" AZ, NM, TX, AL, LA, FL but us Yankees can get a bit more if we are not overloading. The point of my post was not to start a debate on max tire life but to point out that with some planning you can avoid the $$$$ hit of replacing all tires at the same day.