brocki

No we haven't lost our minds. As we had a few more days before we were to get the gas cooling unit, we tried on last time for balance. We turned the cooling unit up to 5 and let it go. All of a sudden it started to defrost on a every 2 day basis and did all other cooling functions fine. Lots of ice making and plenty cold in the back of the freezer for ice cream. The defrost was the critical issue here as it was doing all cooling functions anyway. We're going to keep it. I can't say that everyone else will have our experience, good and bad. He has other units out there and they can't all else be problematic. The amp draw seems low enough that when we off the grid, it didn't cause excessive generator running. The end (hopefully).

OK. We give up. We can't get this unit to work in a satisfactory manner. Though it is cooling well, it isn't getting the freezer section cold enough so the ice maker works efficiently. We are going to get it exchanged for a gas absorption unit next Tuesday on our way through. I still think if you can't reasonably switch to a residential unit, this is the way to go. It just doesn't seem to be working as we want it in ours. We have journaled our temps and findings as we have gone along and will give them to JR and hope it helps him to further refine this unit. We pretty well ruled out the air leak as that was the first thought. I hope no one thinks I am saying anything negative about JC Refrigeration. Nothing could be further from the truth. Their gas unit that we had before worked great on a much lower settings than the Norcold and none of the dangers applied. This pretty much puts this issue to bed for us.

Just my personal opinion. We attempt to route to use their fuel stops. The have good fuel, decent fuel islands, usually enough room and enough sites for my MH and towed. With my GS fuel card, and if I subtract the few remaining cents difference from the cheaper guy, my overnite rent is pretty cheap. But it's a good thing we don't all think alike. Half of these companies would be out of business.

Sorry I'm a day late in reporting back. Yesterday we left Shipshewana with the understanding that we would go on our way and use the compressor unit for a week and if not satisfactory, we will replace it with gas. As of this time, it is not successful in our install. We either have not enough cold for the freezer compartment or frost building up on the fins. I'll keep you updated. Safariowner, I was told that he has sold 6 or 8 of the revised unit and "and have not had any feedback of frost problems." Some frost problems were reported earlier on though. I'll report back in 2 more days. We really want this to work if we can.

It's 2 PM and the "boys" at JC have finished the new install and we are parked outside. As said before, we plan on being here for about 3 days to find out for sure if this will work as we want, (no continuous frost). Starting out with the temp setting on 5 and will go from there. Progress reports as we go along.

SURPRISE!!!.. I am sitting in JC Refrigeration's parking lot at this very moment. I am here to get a second iteration of the compressor powered unit installed in my Norcold 1200 series box. We got the first one June 17th of this year. It has had some problems with frosting up in the refer box, (not the freezer). We have tried everything we can think of to find a temp setting that will do the job but stay defrosted. That is the reason I'm here, to get a new modified unit installed. It seems to run on about 1 amp or a little less. We have made no modifications to accommodate this unit They have stood by us all the way. One of the benefits of dealing with people of this caliber is you are never left out in the cold with your product. I can't say enough good about them. In about 3 days I will report back on the success of the new install.

And you two guys have got it dialed in correctly. That is exactly what I have. But since we posted last, the slide has almost quit going out but does retract successfully. Kinda'. With the help of Veurink RV in Grand Rapids MI, we have determined that it appears that by the controller loosing the current limit on extension and the gearmotor being original sin, when the safety clutch ratcheted a few times, it was the kiss of death for the gearmotor. Stripped gears. So we have a new gearmotor on order, and they have a controller in stock. Should be up and running in a couple days. All ya' have to do is throw money at it.

Wayne, this is a standard rack and pinion setup. Same as I used to sell industrially. D & L, thanks for that info. Armed with this information, I'm not so sure that I have limit switches controlling the slide. I will start by calling Tiffin Monday and find out just what system I have and if it is this servo control type, hopefully they can tell me where to look for it.

Thanks for the reply. Don't think they can help me. This is on the street side and is the gear and rack device not the hydraulic. But I will start looking for a small reed switch around the edges of the slide. General RV in Wayland MI tried to tell me that there is not any switches to stop the gearmotor's progress in and out and one just keeps your finger on the "button" until you hear the clutch sound and then quit. I'm not buying that. We have had this MH for 6 years and the gearmotor has always stopped at the end of the slide travel. I'll continue to look and I'll call Tiffin Monday.

All of a sudden, the front street side slideout on my '07 Phaeton 40 QDH is not stopping the gearmotor at the end of its extension. Fortunately there is a safety clutch (I think) in the gearmotor housing that prevents destruction. But boy is it noisy. My best guess is that there is a limit switch somewhere that is supposed to "break" the circuit when the slideout is fully extended, and I'm also guessing that it has failed or come loose from its mounting. Does anyone know where said limit switch is located? I'm guessing I can replace it if I can find it.

Or just replace the faulty valve. It lived for over 10 years so no complaints here.

Not really. In my case, the water came not through the pump but from the other direction, through the 3 way valve even though it was in the other position. It did not feed back through the pump. The pump's check valve did not leak.

Wolfe, you nailed it. I took the screen assembly off of the suction side of the pump leaving both fittings open, made sure the selector valve was in the "city water" position and turned on the city water. It was either going to leak BACK through the pump/check valve assembly or bleed down the suction hose which is the same line to the tank. Bingo! After a little while, I got a trickle of water coming out of that open fitting on the suction line. Will have to replace that valve. Not sure I want to tackle that project. Getting to that valve is going to mean taking the whole plumbing bay face panel off. Just may farm that out. Thanks all for the good advise. I still am thinking about adding an additional check valve down stream of the pump. Later Gators.

Let me try to answer some of your observations. I have a regulator but as this house that is my water source is only about 40 psi, I'm not using it. I do have a whole house filter up-stream of the pump and tank. I change the element twice a year just on GP. As it took a while for me to get to this little project, we were filling the tank and operating off of our tank in both cases, old and new pump. In both cases, the pump continued to run with no outside source attached. This is the first time that the OEM piping has had to be disturbed so I can't verify if any scale got lose but beside a new pump, I also installed a new screen. Admittedly that only gets the large chunks, but nothing is visible. Though I have made sure the valve is turned all the way, I will try swinging the valve handle a few times and see if that corrects the problem. Sounds to me like I need to upgrade the quality of replacement parts we purchase, but that additional check valve is a good suggestion. I will update in coupe of days when I can get a check valve and some PEX fittings. That should settle it one way or the other.

Was having classic symptoms of water pump check valve failure with original water pump. Symptoms were pump running intermittently with no water being used and when on city water, fresh water tank GAINING about 50 % water overnight. So I went to my trusty parts store and bought a Shurflo model 4008-101-E65 replacement. Hooked it up, no problem. Now the problem. I am still getting some intermittent running of the pump with no water used and when on city water it still filled the fresh tank about 1/4 tank overnight. So let me ask all of you: 1 Have any of you gotten faulty pumps out of the box of this model 2 The only other possible cause of this leakage might be through the manual selection valve that directs city water to the tank. But I know of no way to test that theory and I admit it is a stretch. Collective knowledge please.

OK, to those of you who have expressed a preference for the Michilins. In one word, what is the reason? Price? Ride? I will be buying rear tires this summer and am interested in your opinions from those who have them.

Full disclosure here. We are escapees members and are headed there ourselves. FROM OTHER ESCAPEES, it seems to be well liked. Only caveat to this is that it is on a flood plane and if a corker happens to hit, you may have to leave. We made reservations a week ago and they were pretty full then. Would suggest you call soon.

Thanks tireman9, that is a great start for me. I used the "bus and coach" for the type selection. But interesting, the only brand that I could find a chart that listed dimensions, Firestone, those lines were all blanked out. I guess I will give up on figuring that out. I also noticed something else. I''m sure I knew this at one time but have forgotten, the OEM requirements for the tire size is a G rated tire. All the ones that re currently on here are H rated. So I am certainly not slighting my load capability. At this point, I will probably lean toward Good Year Marathon in 11R22.5. The 2 I have in front ride and handle wonderfully. That way dimensions are not a factor. Another thing in their favor is the fact that a tire inflation chart is right up front. Something I insist on for any tire I buy. Thanks again to all who responded.

When we purchased our '07 Tiffin Phaeton in '12, it came with a 1 year old set of Roadmaster 11R22.5 sized tires. The placard in the coach calls for 275/80R22.5 size. The current tires have performed well without problems until a year ago when due to a blister in one of the fronts, I had to buy a new pair of tires for the steer axle. I could get Good Year Marathon brand in the 11R size and have been very satisfied with the handling and ride. My question is this: We are due to replace the rear 4 tires this year. I have had very good service from the 11R22.5 sized tires but would like to know the actual size difference between before I would make up my mind which tire size to pursue. Does anyone know of any tire size charts that give actual physical dimensions? This coach tends to sit a little nose down and if the 11Rs are slightly bigger than the 275s, I might mix the sizes to level the coach out.

Wolfe 10. Thank you.

Or, you could join some of us of the fringe of society and try Linux. And then most of the other problems go away. But the FMCA website is as slow a molasses.

Though I don't always, I agree with you for the most part Herman. I am one of those non chapter members, always have been and perhaps will remain so. As a wandering fulltimer, I don't often land at a repeatable place to participate. That means I do need to depend on others who stand still long enough to become involved. I'm OK with that most of the time and accept that position.

Good heavens, I thought we were the only ones to use the "bathroom door" method. When the bathroom door is happy, moma's happy. And when moma's happy, everyones happy.

Regarding mattresses, if you like memory foam mattresses, try this website. foambymail.com. The price and quality are both very attractive. Keeping all things in consideration, we have had a 9 inch thick, medium density queen size that they had to cut down to RV length. They only charged about $30.00 to cut it. We have had it over three years, absolutely love it, but have started to notice that it is starting to soften. However, given the price, I can buy a new one every 5 years and be money well ahead. One caveat here. They come crunched and wrapped up tight. DON'T unwrap it in the living room area. Take out the old mattress, put this thing on the bed frame and then open it. You'll understand why when you cut the last string.

Bill, do you use it on your phone, tablet, or laptop?