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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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Cummins Engine location pdf However, if your engine is the ISB 6.7L engine, it is not shown. When you do not supply the needed information, we can only guess.
wildbill, there are no videos of a Cummings engine.
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Do you have more that 2 slide rooms? This will help identify your model of HWH leveling system and room extension. Once we know the HWH model #, and the make/model of your MH, we can proceed.
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10 hours ago, jimnorm said:All, I am wondering if anyone knows where one can acquire a plate like FMCA, but with the ELKS logo and ideally your lodge number.
That might be a good project for a lodge member to support.
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F150 tires
in Tires
DO NOT buy or use "P" (passenger car) rated tires on your pickup, buy "LT" (light truck) tires. "P" rated tires have soft flexible sidewalls for rider comfort, but are a poor choice for towing a trailer or hauling a load.
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Supposedly RV tires are made with more additives to protect them from ozone and sun rays, but only when they are in use. During long-term storage MIchelin says those chemicals are not being released from the tire compound; which is why they crack.
Personally I'm running Sailun truck tires, before them I ran Goodyear truck/RV tires, and I've never noted any difference in ride, handling or wear.
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Thanks Don! i'll do that Monday, the website seems designed by and for a expert to use.
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23 hours ago, C-616153 said:We have a 2021 Venture Stratus SR261VRL and our slide quit working this morning. We're on a trip and today when we tried to retract our slide it ran for a few seconds and then stopped. Nothing happens when you push the slide switch in either direction - it's like it has no power. I checked the 15 amp fuse for the slide and it was okay.
We were able to retract the slide manually so mechanically it's functional. I was told that there might be another type of fuse or circuit up near the 12-volt power disconnect switch on the trailer tongue area. I've attached a photo of an area next to the disconnect switch with a plastic cover over it that I had to remove to access it. As you can see, several wires attach to an electrical device but I'm not sure what it does. Maybe it's a fusible link of some type that has tripped or blown.
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated. We are already several states away from home and heading outbound. Hopefully, we can take care of this without having to cancel our trip and head back home to get it repaired.
Those are automatic-reset circuit breakers, if you have 12V on both terminals of both circuit breakers they are OK.
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I think I found it; it doesn't say anything about the hard copy it asks a question. "do you want a digital edition?" I selected "no". And I do not, I cannot read online magazines with such tiny print or scroll a page to read a sentence.
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I can't return to that webpage today. It listed different pricing for digital and paperback editions. I may have been on something about advertising fees, I don't know.
I still haven't found where to request paperback magazines on the website. It seems at 80 my internet skills are declining along with my health.
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Surprise, Surprise! Now I've got to pay extra to read the magazine digital, and much more to get the print version. Apparently all the advertising in the magazine isn't close enough to pay expenses.
If I must buy it, then it should be free of advertising.
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I was trying to log directly in to the magazine website from a separate tab instead of from the main website. I'm good, thanks Pamela and Don. Now to find out why I'm not getting my snail mail edition as I'm signed for. My eyes are not good enough to read my monitor screen without special glasses,(not a priority) I'm borderline glacoma and use eyedrops to keep it in check.
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I anticipate my Norcold 1200LRIM to fail any day, but it's 24 years old so who knows it may last forever if I continue to follow the operating instructions.
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That only leaves one thing, new element is faulty.
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I haven't been able to sign into the magazine website since renewing my membership even though I can sign in everywhere else; why?
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RVLife.com is of course designed for RV specific use. Another app is TruckerPath, which is for commercial OTR truck, with vehicle specific height,weight, length settings like rvlife.com, but it hasn't the RV RV parks and other such information.
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The 120VAC heating element is nothing special, the same overall length element from any hardware store is the same item. I think your old one had a gasket, did you scrape the mating surface before installing that new one? I think mine had a fiber gasket instead of rubber/neoprene. That would have to be a special compound if made of rubber, because the water reachs a temperature of 140°F.
The thermostat is a snap disc t-stat. Opens at 140*F and Closes at 110*F for heating cycle. (ECO -HI Temp Opens at 180*F/Closes at 150*F)
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One thing not addressed is operating conditions. Norcold has limits on how level the unit must be to prevent the cooling unit from overheating and self-destroying.
That limit is 3° side-to side and 6°front to back, as looking at the refrigerator door. Operating outside those limits the boiler temperature can easily exceed 700°F within a matter of minutes.
To read all about how and why this happens, go to https://www.arprv.com/
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I would suspect the first compressor failed sending metal fragments throughout the closed system. When the second compressor was installed, if they did not also flush the system and replace the dryer unit, it could have allowed said metal fragments to destroy the new compressor.
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It is actually wired in series/parallel.2, 6V in series makes 1 12V battery connected in parallel to a second set, which in turn is connected the same way to the 3rd set of 6V batteries. This is the correct routing, however you will have a 2nd set of pos. and neg. cables leading to the inverter.
What makes it confusing is, one battery in each group of 3 must be wired together to make 1, 12V battery, then the remaining 2 in each group are wired together to make another 12V battery. After washing away some dirt, I'd identify those 2, 6V batteries making 1, 12V battery. That will make it easy to identify the 3rd battery in each group.
I would use a continuity tester to identify the series cables that go from neg. to pos.., marking them as I identified each one. Those cables that do not have continuity when tested at both ends are likely cables the other 3rd battery or to ground or inverter, positive cables with no continuity either go to engine or inverter and those can be identified with a continuity tester or a tone generator if the other end is not evident..
That's as much as I can see in your pictures It is a good thing you are approaching it this way, if you just began unhooking cables it would be a real puzzle to get all the cables correct.
I hope this reads better than I suspect it does.
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I would decline for the above stated reasons. Then after the factory warranty expires, re-visit the subject. If you roll that ESC into your vehicle loan you will be paying interest on that $5,500 for the entire term on the loan. That will make the ESC very expensive indeed.
Dealers finance dept. tries to sell several different products that add to the loan amount, NONE imo are worth the expense.
After the factory warranty expires, and if you decide to purchase an ESC, contact wholesalewarranties.com and Good Sam ESC to obtain pricing. I had a good experience with GS ESC during the 6 yr. term of the contract; however the MH we bought had been stored in a barn for 8 years untouched so we thought it prudent to purchase an ESC, but not through an RV dealer.
Speaking of which, it is a contract with terms and conditions that must be met when a claim is filed, or the claim is denied. By law it is not a warranty, but rather a contract for services.
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Yes Ross that's why it is important to adhere to the specific owners manual for the system installed. There is a link to the specifics within that HWH FAQ webpage.
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Ross is right. HWH specifies their oil or the type ATF specified in your owners manual. Different years specify a different ATF, for instance newer units call in Dextron III or IV, but my 1999 HWH leveling system calls in type A ATF (Ford). Do not use hydraulic jack oil! Reference: HWH FAQ page
Other brands of leveling systems have their own specifications.
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9 hours ago, dons2346 said:I just sent him an email to the address I have for him as a test. If you are in contact with Carl, have him try an different browser to log in here. He hasn't been banned that I know of and there is no reason that I can see that would keep him from logging in.
Going to be traveling today but will check in later
That almost sounds like his browser settings are too strict to allow the Invision software access to his browser. Yes a different browser might get different results. I have FF latest update with default settings.
My opinion of the forums is, yes they have been really slow since Herman passed.
Parts Availability
in Electrical
Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply
Jim doesn't one of our members have a bus conversion? I remember a conversation about the 24VDC part.
Here is the online bus conversion magazine. https://www.busconversionmagazine.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=ql5ttiaen34fq7lgrcf613tqne&board=1.0