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rayin

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Posts posted by rayin


  1. First, this dash air system is nothing special, any automotive A/C shop can work on it, but the sheer size of a MH might intimidate some techs. Without knowing the brand of your A/C system all I can do it speculate.

    The first thing to do is determine if the water valve to the heater core is operating as designed. When you have the heater running the hose on both sides of the water valve should feel hot/warm. When the A/C is running the outlet side of the water valve hose should not feel warm. It is does the water valve is defective. If it does not feel warm, the next step is to determine if the compressor is running.

    When the compressor is running both the belt pulley and the inside of the pulley will be spinning. If the inside is not spinning the refrigerant level must be checked. Instead of writing a book, I'll now refer you to this very complete  Heavy Duty Air Conditioning Service Manual,  which does address long refrigerant hoses found on MH's.

    If your A/C system is an Evans TempCon,(ProAirlic.com)) they filed bankruptcy a few months ago. As a result their website is down, but parts are available from other suppliers.

    This is all my bookmarks for a 12V A/C system, including all brands I have found on the internet:

     12V air conditioning
    https://www.btrac.com/documents/svc-manual-revision-i-feb-2011.pdf
    https://coldhose.com/
    https://www.nwrvsupply.com/category/05-03.html
    https://www.proairllc.com/design-engineering/evans-tempcon-guides/
    http://www.cdr-roc.com/RSF/RV-CAR/Travel Supreme/Spartan & chassis info/EVANS Dash HVAC_System_Service_Manual.pdf
    https://www.comfortairgr.com/product-category/evans-tempcon-motorome-rv-parts/
    https://www.comfortairgr.com/product-category/evans-tempcon-motorome-rv-parts/
    https://newpar.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env99NEWMAR/html/images/SS2013EVEQUILTRAIN.pdf
    https://www.rvtechmag.com/tech/51_r134.php
    https://rvcoolingunit.com/Default.aspx
    https://www.comfortairgr.com/product-category/scs-victory-climate-systems/
    https://library.densoassets.com/m/155322b79fcb708a/original/RV-HVAC-Service-Manual.pdf
    http://soldbyrichard.com/rvacheaterparts.php
    http://acmeairparts.com/rvacheaterparts.html
    https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-96110515-Klima-Cleaner-Conditioner-Cleaner/dp/B0002Z2MKO
    https://www.winnebago.com/Files/Files/Winnebago/Resources/Service/2016-01 Evans Tempcon Auto Air Conditioning.pdf
    https://www.comfortairgr.com/rv-hvac-downloads/


  2. 2 hours ago, wayne77590 said:

    You don't need the foil if you also have a wire surrounding the white phonelic insulator that caries the center copper conductor. The purpose of the aluminum shield is to reduce radio frequency interference, RFI. (electromagnetic interference) Strip it back and cut it off then use the wire shield and center conductor.

     

    what he said right there jpg.jpg


  3. 44 minutes ago, raypesek said:

    Perhaps in your state and that only stops honest scrapyards from accepting stolen goods. In Ohio the law limits sellers to one catalytic converter per scrapyard per day. But the law does not apply to commercial sellers. So one enterprising thief got an LLC through State of Ohio and sold several every day.

    Indiana is my state. The salvage yard manager with whom I do business said the state police regularly check his records. You are right, nothing will stop a determined thief, as your pictures prove.


  4. First do some homework. Go to bryantrv.com or MyRVwork.com and download the installation manual for your  make/model refrigerator. Then closely inspect the installation in  your trailer, measuring distances and angles.

    This is a fairly common problem with RV mfgrs. they appear to do what is quicker and easier vs exactly what the manual states. This results in poor cooling.

     In the meantime, consider adding a small 12V blower-type fan on the condensing coils pointing up the poorly installed chimney.


  5. On 1/7/2023 at 9:26 AM, jwj4769@gmail.com said:

    Since it did not blow the fuse, it was not an overload condition.  Your description sounds like an overheated problem.

    It sounds as if there is a high-resistance-contact (loose connection) at one side of the fuse holder.  Where there is resistance on an electrical line, there is heat.

    Since the circuit started working when you touched the fuse, you caused a temporary reconnect.

    I agree.


  6. That is an unanswerable question without knowing the inverter/charger bulk and  absorption rates of charge, exact depth of discharge, condition of battery  cables, battery temperatures, and how many 12VDC amps are being used that detract from  the charging rates.

    A ball park EWAG is 4 hours with a 3-stage charger.

     


  7. Exactly what do you want/expect a security camera to do for you, and for what area? Does it need to work independent of WiFi or dependent on WiFi?

    I have a motion detector-activated porch light, which is also wired into my step-well light, both are a bright LED light so I know if anyone approaches the MH at night. Other than that, if I'm going to lose sleep worrying about a prowler around the MH, it has wheels to move DW and me to a safer location.


  8. My prayers go  for Bobbie, to keep her strong and healthy, both physically and mentally.  Herman is well-cared for, but Bobbie is faced with the harsh realities of future decisions, while remaining healthy and strong to withstand the tremendous stress of daily life. Then she must prepare for the possibility of being Herman's caregiver in the future.

     


  9. With the new requirement placed on salvage yards I suspect CAT thefts will drop dramatically. Now all legal scrap/salvage yards are required to obtain a picture ID of the seller for their permanent records,. Sellers are required to obtain a license from the state to sell a CAT, plus have proof of the vehicle it came from (VIN)' OR be selling the entire vehicle as scrap.

    What you did was basically make your own catstrap.net


  10. Welcome! I don't know anything about Monaco, but I'll pass along information about my Spartan chassis Cummins ISC engine in my Winnebago.  It has 2 different fuse locations, one is all the chassis relays, solenoids and fuses, the other location is near the ECM and contains fuses for the engine and transmission.

    When my engine would not start Cummins Great Plains found the transient suppressor had failed, which caused the 12V fuel distributor module on the main pump to fail, and  had blown 2 fuses protecting the ECM.

    They found that after 2 days trying to retrieve data from the obsolete programming in the ECM. They finally had to remove the ECM, take it to an old computer they had it storage that could read the old program. Then the ECM was wiped clean and the most-current programming installed.

    Ten days and $5,000 later we were repaired and running again, that was July 2020 when all their suppliers were shut down and parts difficult to locate and get shipped.

    I apologize for the rambling, but once I got started, had to tell the whole story.


  11. re: that cost differential. The ins. co. should pay all but deductible. In my MH policy there is a clause permitting the policy holder to invoke a 3rd party appraisal. This is very similar to arbitration, you hire an independent appraiser, the ins. co. is required to do the same. If your independent appraisal amount and the ins. co. independent appraisal amount cannot be agreed upon by them, then it goes to an independent umpire who has the final say in the matter.

    This takes the appraisal out of the hands of the ins. co. entirely. There is a downside, each party must pay their own expenses during this, with the umpire cost split evenly.

    I saw a post on a different RVing forum about a new theft prevention device for CAT protection.https://www.catstrap.net/

    If a determined thief wants something they will get it. Our best protection is to make the theft consume so much time the thief will move along to an easier target with less chance of getting caught.


  12. 14 hours ago, dons2346 said:

    Welcome to the forum.

    If you can, remove the old seal and visit your local auto parts house and say "I need one of these". You might even go to a heavy truck supply house as there is really nothing different between a motorhome and a heavy truck

    Exactly! If a MH mfgr. had every part special-made  the MH would be outrageously expensive. Even Prevost is a bus chassis. Joe, you just need to know who made your chassis, but the numbers on the seal is the correct ID for any parts store.


  13. On 12/2/2022 at 10:32 PM, dons2346 said:

    OK, I have to ask. What is the VDC? This might help in getting you an answer

    Welcome to the "I don't know either" group. Everyone/everything has an acronym today and I can't keep up with them.

    Reminds me of Army acronyms; COB = Close of Business. One time a new private in our computer division  got a paper from the General saying reply by COB. Well, be didn't get it done in time that day, so he wrote on the top of the paper, I will reply at SOB tomorrow.

    He thought it meant Start of Business, the general was not happy.😀


  14. It was stored inside until last month when they got in a new class C that had been broadsided and had a big hole in the starboard side. The shop owner said he had to pull mine outside so he could store the class C inside.

    Yep, winterized it 2 weeks ago. I had forgotten how, since this is the first time I've had to winterize in in about 8 years. After I got started it came back to me though.

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