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rayin

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Posts posted by rayin

  2. Posted · Report reply

    On 8/13/2023 at 9:31 PM, wildebill308 said:

    Well where is everyone? I hope you are up in cooler climates.

    Bill

    S. Indiana, where it was 79 today. Supposed to be in low 80's this week. The coming weekend will be mid 90's with high humidity in the 80's. Isn't this weekend the last NASCAR race?   DW just bought be a new leather recliner with all the options, I'll  have to stay inside this weekend and do some serious testing while the race is on TV.

     

  3. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    4 hours ago, wildebill308 said:

    I agree ray but 2022New Aire! hasn't been back. He is talking about a New 2024 MA. I still think having it inspected would be a good thing.

    How are you doing and have you made any progress getting back on the road?

    Bill

     I failed to notice his post was from Dec. 2022, my bad.

    No progress; still waiting on the arbitration process to play out; meanwhile I'm fixing other things in the MH, new batteries, next is new inverter/charger. I''m not looking forward to working with the OEM 4/0 battery cables.

  4. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    On 1/31/2023 at 7:45 PM, wildebill308 said:

    Great at least you are where it is warmer. We are in Fort Worth and having a freezing rain/sleet event till at least Thursday.

    Bill

    Careful what you wish for___ sometimes they come true.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Ice makers in refrigerators are generic in design.  This PDF shows details of the water solenoid and how to test the ice maker.  It sounds like lack of incoming water pressure is the problem. https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/icemaker.pdf

      Under the kitchen sink is where most drinking water filters are installed,  On the filter housing there should be a lever that shuts off the water supply exiting the filter, make sure that is open, as it also feeds the ice-maker.

     

  6. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    On 12/6/2022 at 6:49 PM, Greg Haag said:

    I am purchasing a NEWMAR NEW AIRE subject to inspection, does anyone have recommendations on the most important items to inspect?  It is a used 2022 if that matters.

    Thank you in advance,

    Greg

    The single most important item IMO, is the power-train, then chassis, then for water leak damage. Most RV appliances come with a 2yr warranty. The absorption refrigerator used to have a standard 2yr warranty, extendable with annual inspections and cleaning by a professional to 3 yrs.

     A 2022 model engine will not even be broken-in yet, it requires 50K to 80K miles  to be completely broken-in. Fluids analysis should be performed on all fluids to determine the condition though.

    IMO it is a good use of money (about $750) to hire a professional RV inspector to protect your purchase money.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    On 7/23/2023 at 8:08 PM, five said:

    My pet peeve with CGs is that now some charge the full amount when you make the reservation.  Plus, if you want to be able to cancel, at any time, there is a  higher rate, other wise you can't cancel at all.  I made a reservation at Catherine's Landing, a very nice CG in Hot Springs, AR, for mid October.  My CC was charged the full amount, nearly $500, when I made the reservation.  I recently made a trip out west in the toad and made several motel/hotel reservations.  I could cancel all if I called 24 hours prior to the day of check in.

     I just read their reservation page, quote: "Best Available Rate – If your vacation plans are firm, lock in the best-priced rate available when you book your reservation for your desired accommodation type within a specific timeframe. The entire stay must be prepaid with a credit card when the reservation is made and will be non-refundable.

    Peace of Mind Rate – Our Peace of Mind rate is fully refundable less a 10% cancellation fee except during holiday periods. You may make ONE date change or cancel the reservation but this change must be made by 3:00 pm CST, 72-hours prior to arrival. "

  11. Posted · Report reply

    After I joined FMCA, their tire page used to have a statment something like: " before using the Michelin discount ask the local dealer, they may be able to sell Michelin tire for less than the program".

    When I asked about using the discount program my local dealer said I do not participate in the program.  IMO HQ should be actively monitoring their tire program offerings for cost/benefit and usefulness to members. Then again, I have no say because I do not pay to be a chapter member, mainly due to DW's condition.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    17 hours ago, elkhartjim said:

    My takeaway was the million dollars a year FMCA is losing, the number of chapters disappearing, and the average age of the membership is getting older. 

     

    FMCA isn't the only such organization in this situation.  That made me remember a saying " All things must end", but with the right person, at the right time, the end can be delayed.

    Before I scrolled down to this thread, I noticed a new thread by a new member.  The thread title was " what did I get for joining? Nothing yet". That is a sad commentary on FMCA management at HQ.; but that's just my opinion.

  16. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    The 120VAC heating element is just a huge resistor actually. Replacements are universal, nothing RV-specific,  2 versions are made, buy the same length. I bought my last one from Menards.

    Which brand and model of WH?  There are 2 brands Atwood and Dometic, each has several different models. One brand uses only one thermostat for both electric and LP,  the other has once for each heating source.  You can download the service manual, and all your appliance service manuals from:: https://myrvworks.com/manuals/

  18. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    Welcome to the FMCA discussion forums!!! Return often and just chat if you want. We even have a forum for chatting.

     

    First, check to insure your coach is receiving shore power. If you have the capability working with electricity, remove the main panel cover and test the main breakers for voltage with a VOM or even a non-contact voltage tester,(not as accurate but safer). If you don't the next check is the ATS=automatic transfer switch, check for power at the ends of the shore power cord.

    If you have power at the main panel main breakers, but no power at any outlets in the RV, check for loose connection screws, both pos. and neutral.

     

  20. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    On 7/4/2023 at 8:26 AM, erniee said:

    Ray, does your cool air come from ceiling ducts or floor registers?

    Ceiling ductwork. It is an RVP (ColemanMach) 24,000btu basement unit. Inside, the only sound was chilled air exiting the ceiling ductwork and my genset running.  RVP now makes and sells a universal unit to fit where their old 5 models were used, the universal unit is a 46515 model. Then if needed they sell the adaptive ducting to match the coach OEM ductwork.

  21. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    On 7/1/2023 at 9:31 AM, ianbullock said:

    Winnebago provides weight limits on attached ladders. Also pretty sure they are attached to more than just fibreglass, likely steel brackets. On my Class A the weight limit is 250 lbs. Pretty sure it could handle a 25 lb stepladder.

    Mine is attached with SST wood screws, there is no metal embedded in the fiberglass rear cap; weight limit 300#. I suspect the weight limit is because the ladder curves over the roof and is mounted to roof. So weight is a straight downward force onto the roof.

  22. Posted · Edited by rayin · Report reply

    I took my time and pulled out my basement heat pump. That involved buying a new hydraulic lift table from Harbor Freight ($299) to support the unit and move it some for better working access.  Hired a mobile RV tech to help me pull it and do the heavy work.

    Then I replaced the PC board and compressor relays and all 6 capacitors. Removed the indoor fan and outdoor fan, oiled the motor bushings, then checked for  wear/play and oiled the pillow-block bushing. Put everything back together and IDFM would not run, just hummed, that turned out to be my fault, mis-wired a cap.

    Started it up successfully yesterday, and it runs better than I've ever noticed, even pull 2A less after running for 30 minutes than it did before I did the work. Total expense was near $1,000,($600 to RV tech) but if it lasts another 23 years I'll not be around to know. FWIW, a new replacement RVP 6515 heat pump costs $4,500- $5,000 today.

    Best part_ I still don't have to listen to noisy roof-top units, I can't hear the basement unit running unless nothing else is running, and that only in the bedroom.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/28/2023 at 9:57 AM, wildebill308 said:

    What class A motorhome? Many of the gas coaches have extended frames. 

    Bill

    I agree. Most gas MH's have an extended frame behind the rear axle. That's how different length coaches can be on the same wheelbase.  While the hitch proper can probably stand up to the extra 800-1,000#, can the frame extension??? That is not something I'd be willing to bet my family's safety on.

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