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rayin
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Posts posted by rayin
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You may find this webpage interesting reading: https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/electrical/sinewave.php
Keep in mind, there have been improvements in the 13 years since that was written.
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Dometic Elite, model number ???
You may download the service manual from bryantrv.com
Sounds like a dead short; one solution to that is - begin tracing wires. 12V is used to power the controls and door seal heaters.
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What Carl said is right! Well, the meaning anyway.
Some doctors licensed in the U.S. near the border, have an office in MX too. For folks without insurance they advise them to contact the MX office. Doctors in MX are not required to carry the very expensive insurances required in the U.S.
Friends of ours took their adult daughter to MX for dental implants, cost for full-mouth implants was $10k.
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On 11/19/2019 at 9:35 AM, wolfe10 said:Or if no ladder, double sided tape from any hardware or box store to put in the back of your RV.
That's what I did, my egg is at top port of rear cap.
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That belt-line is how my Winnebago MH is made, one of the negative traits is the mounting screws work loose. I have re-tightened mine twice, some were OK, some were loose, each time i use lok-tite. However, my MH is 20 now.
The genset is a non-slide mount best I can decypher. The plastic tank beside the genset would be my windshield washer fluid tank, that one is larger. Winnebago mounted air horns above driver seat. I agree with Carl due to locations of items, number of bay doors, LP tank location, DP- 36-38' max.
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You might run a search for "diesel engine theory" to start your learning adventure. One example result.
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9 hours ago, jleamont said:Do you spend time boondocking where you would need the extra reserve?
No, not usually. DW is getting better and talks about traveling again. I'm preparing for dry camping, if required by her medical needs that has been preventing her from traveling. I can always run the genset all night when necessary.
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3 hours ago, manholt said:When was the last time you cleaned the burner unit? Should be every year at minimum.
Yup, LP is a dirty-burning fuel.
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1 hour ago, RLS7201 said:We handled the terrain in our 95 Bounder gasser in 2013. Your newer coach should be just fine. The roads in Canada and alaska are no different the the roads in the lower 48.
Richard
Well, not exactly. We don't have frost heaves in the 48. Once you get to YT the Alaska highway is gravel in places where frost heaves have been repaired.
For suecando, just lower your speed in YT compared to usual traffic speed in the provinces adjoining the U.S.A. A tip to spot frost heaves, watch the white line on blacktop, if it appears wavy drop your speed. A frost heave is a misnomer, it is actually a depression after the ground thaws, sometimes it can be a foot deep and 3'wide. After it is repaired, that section will be loose gravel.
All the MH's in our caravan returned to the U.S. without any damage, trailers had the problems, most due to driver error.
In preparation, buy a Milepost book, doesn't have to be the latest edition as the roads are the same as last decade. Teach yourself how to read and use it well before departure, as it skips around depending on the route you choose. Always drive off the top 1/2 of your fuel tank.
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Well, I was misled by the Exide advertising, the FBA_XMC 31 AGM battery is actually 100AH, not 200, according to this marine battery review website.
This put me back into the decision making mode. Now I must decide between that Exide and the U.S. Battery 232AH 6V battery.
So, I'll spend time recalculating the money angle again.
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Central Florida would be near Sebring IMO. You might begin looking on the internet for RV parks in that area with vacancies in March.
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For the gas part, remove(turn off heater first) the control board plug-in, I think it has 5 wires, anyway, remove the control board/module, polish the contacts with a pencil eraser. The very low voltage (~4 milliamps) is very sensitive to loss of contact.
Rather that explaining all the possibilities, download the Atwood service manual and follow the troubleshooting section.
Here is a private version of the Atwood service manual that may be easier to read.
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Decision has been made; we are staying with the 3 12V battery setup. Again, thank you all for your insight and advice. Kaypsmith's calculations made perfect sense to me, and my financial manager, especially since the price of having the cables made-to-order was not included.
Plus, I'm not going to have so much work to do to replace the battery bank; when retired, work is a 4-letter word ya'know.
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OK, thanks for that. The new pricing figures threw my old stuff out the window. I'm off tonight, I spent an hour on the phone with my cellular provider customer service-after a 20 minute on hold ordeal. The conversation wound up with me educating the rep on how my cell phone works, or rather is supposed to work. He closed by advising me to visit a local retail store and have them fix my problem. I'm gonna get off here and go have a conversation with Evan Williams from KY for a while.
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I looked further into the IMpact battery made my U.S. Battery. Searching for the same battery ID number US2200XC2,
I found a much better price (on that website) $139.18. The U.S. Battery battery specs appear to be great.
I answered my own question, that IMpact brand IS NOT a good buy.
Kaysmith, this throws my money angle figures out the window, I'll re-figure tomorrow.
Thanks to everyone who offered their opinion and experience! I'm getting closer to being able to make an intelligent decision.
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8 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:What am I missing in this thread? Three 200 ah 12 volt batteries (same as original) = 600 ah. Four 6 volt at 231 = 464 ah (correct). I always thought that 600 ah is better than 464 ah, of course you haven't told us how much the 12 volt Exides will cost for an adequate comparison. And we already know that the 3 Exides will fit.
There's the money angle, the 3 Exide 200AH stats will be 300AH available down to 50% charge, and cost $140 ea. That's $1.42 per AH. The IMpact 232AH @ $199.99 is $1.16 per AH; 26¢ difference per AH, before the additional expenses of new cabling, which is an unknown.
FWIW, the IMpact battery is made by U.S. Battery manufacturing Co. if you hover over the battery it is on the label.
I think you've sank my ship. When I show this to my financial manager she'll decide on staying with the present system.
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1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:Are those deep cycle? I run group 31 start batteries.
Ok, just how much do you dry camp? I went back with Duracell Golf Car Battery - Group Size EGC2 at about $125.00 each because I don't dry camp that much. The price of the Li batteries are coming down maybe they will get cheap enough later on.
Bill
Yes, the present 12V Exide deep-cycle batteries are the 5 yr old version of the hot link in my previous reply. By the time Li-On batteries get cheap enough for me to buy, I'll have to use them on my coffin.
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1 hour ago, jleamont said:You don’t like my internet diagram? It’s on the Internet it must be true and accurate
OK, after I reviewed your wiring diagram, my configuration will look that, 4 batteries in a square formation. The difference will be, both + cables (of same length) will lead to a terminal block, same for - cables, as Brett said. The coach cables will attach to the terminal blocks-if I can find some heavy enough to safely accommodate the maximum amperage of the batteries. If I can't find the blocks, I'll fabricate my own; should be a simple task for an old toolmaker, I already have a length of 1"x3" copper bar stock.
You guys realize this project totally depends upon what my financial manager decides. Her final decision may be to simply replace the 3 12V OEM house battery configuration. If that is the decision I plan to buy 3 Exide 12V Nautilus deep-cyle 200AH batteries.
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1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:Looking at the diagram immediately above, that is NOT how I would wire it. I would wire 12VDC positive from one "pair"-- say upper left battery and the ground from the other pair-- the lower right.
That way the electrons flow through both pairs instead of the upper ones doing the heavy lifting and the lower pair merely helping.
You are right! I am planning to wire the 2 pairs of batteries to a central terminal block,(equal length cables)then wire the coach cables to the same terminal block. I may be over-complicating this though, and do exactly as you state, which is the same as Mark Nemeth's red diagram on The 12V side of life. BTW, that's perhaps the best battery tutorial on the web IMO.
Richard, Trojan does not make a comparable battery for the same money.Their AGM battery for instance is only 205AH @ $300 ea. This one is 232AH @ $200, with 1yr warranty vs T 105 18 mos.
I am considering switching to 6V because 4 of these would offer 464AH and only be down to 1/2 charge-IF all discharged equally. So far they are the best bang-for-the-buck I've found on the web.
The downside is,one must order them delivered, the delivery charge may consume any price savings. This may turn out, buying 6V batteries,even though lesser AH, from the local golf cart sales and repair shop is the best source, plus, they make their own cables, which eliminates my attempts at DIY cables. OH, I must also buy a watering system whichever battery I purchase; if it will fin into the compartment height.
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My present batteries are 5 years old and getting weak. i was looking at switching to 6V batteries and found these: https://www.impactbattery.com/us2200.html
You guys with a 6V bank, what is your considered opinion of those to replace my 3 12V batteries? The only thing is, I only have room for 3 gp 31 12V batteries and don't know if I can fit 4 of these in the same tray.
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Check the many RV parks around Lake Okeechobee, I think the earthen levees around the lake are owned by the state though, so not right on the water's edge. Which might be a good thing with the abundant alligator population.
We stayed at Clewiston one winter, the RV park(now a KOA) has a fish-cleaning station. Nearby are the boat docks.
I do see RV parks adds saying they have a free fishing lake, I assume they are fished-out most of the peak months, or have a catch and release program.
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I just did a quick peruse of the internet for this brand/model. Not much to find. The only conclusion I came away with is the engine; none state the engine model, only the HP. That IMO means it is a Cummins ISB 360 HP. Usually adds state the engine is an ISL, ISM, etc., because they have more torque, even with the same HP as the ISB engine.
UPDATE: Yes it is the Cummins ISB medium-duty engine: https://www.lazydays.com/rvs/tampa-fl/class-a/nexus-bentley-21019093
The general rule-of-thumb for minimum HP is, one HP for each 100# of coach weight. This coach appears to meet that "rule".
The only actual owner experience I read was found here, and was skimpy at best. Comment #11 there seemed to say a lot between the lines.
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An RV MH dealership would have a list of bonded, insured drivers too. IMO getting anyone else to drive your MH is a big gamble.
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FWIW, the most popular FL "winter" reservation period is Jan,Feb, Mar. Next is Dec -Mar 30. Nearly every RV resort is virtually empty by April 30.
Mexico Medical
in Outside the USA
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You reminded me, I forgot to say TRICARE paid all differences Medicare did not cover. I chose distant vision as I was very nearsighted. Now I cannot read without glasses, this with the standard lenses Medicare covers.