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rayin

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Posts posted by rayin

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Our first 5er was a 1992, I covered it with a cheap farm tarpaulin from  Harbor Freight until we traded for a 2005, we covered it with the same item. Each tarp lasted 3-4 years, sun rot was the destroyer, I added grommets and used elastic bungee cords to hold it in place. From the first tarp use I never spotted any wear/rub marks on the 5er, due to the bungee cords holding the tarp continually taut. The air conditioners held the tarp off the roof enough to promote water run-off and allow air circulation.

    Every time I washed the RV I added 2 oz bleach to a 5 G bucket of auto soap and water mixture. This removed any surface mold/mildew, even from the plastic trim and awnings.

    Those tarps, back then, cost about $40 for a 50' X 30' size. The last one I bought was 60' X 40' and cost $60; never got to use it, we built a 60' X 40' pole barn first, then traded for this MH.

  3. Posted · Report reply

    55 minutes ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    Here is a video that should be promoted better for new people.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0hFvu73q08

    Bill

     

    I never knew FMCA had videos, as you said it appears to be a secret. The basic tenet of selling/promoting something is to advertise widely.

    At the risk of having my hands slapped; SMART members leave membership applications at military campgrounds they visit; just another form of advertising.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, manholt said:

    Ray, I finally found the Link in iRV2...Seems that 80% of comments are pre Minot.  Other 20% has to do with RoLo & an app!  My FMCA membership is not due until 2024, but as I have said in another post..."Bill  me for the difference & I'll pay it"!  Even without FMCAssits the $75 is worth my membership!

    I agree Carl. I'm just  trying to find out the facts, as I'd never seen that thread until yesterday.  I failed to notice the begin date of that thread, perhaps that is what derailed my thoughts.(or being old)

  8. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, kaypsmith said:

    Not knowing what type of refrigerator you have, but if you have an RV style fridge may give some clue. When running an RV (absorption type) most commonly they will remain on LP gas while running the generator, but when going to AC power sometimes will cause a GFCI to trip. So, check the fridge while the GFCI is tripped to make sure that its AC wiring is not on that GFCI circuit. Remember if it is an absorption type, the fridge will still work just not on AC if it is set to automatic changeover.

    My Norcold 1200LRIM automatically switches to 120VAC when I start the genset, then back to LP when I stop the genset.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    8 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

    tworootless,

    Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

    See if your basement GFI powers an outside outlet.  If so, it is common for water or corrosion in the exposed outlet to trip the GFI.

    X2, I had that headache the first year we owned our MH, the GFCI that was tripping is in behind a "garage door" in a corner of the kitchen countertop, behind the sink. The problem turned out to be non-use of that outside receptacle, once I began using it the GFCI never tripped again. I now plug in my power tools there while working in the garage just to keep the  contacts clean.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

    Or if no ladder, double sided tape from any hardware  or box store to put in the back of your RV.

    That's how mine is mounted to the top port-side of the rear cap, didn't put one on the  top front port-side of the MH, there's too much on the front already. I don't know how long the tape will stick, it's only been on there since I joined in 2015-I think.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    12 hours ago, manholt said:

    DB, where you live, I would invest in a power washer!  I live 160 miles south of Dallas and we have 2.  Just put it on low PSI for coach.

    Ernie, who's on Third? 

    Herman.  See. :D

    I don't know; and I carry a small suitcase electric  power( can't in all conscience call it pressure)  washer in the basement on every winter trip. Even took it along on our Alaska trip.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    On 11/12/2019 at 12:38 PM, jimbobslick said:

    I am still trying to get this resolved with SafeRide.   THey DO NOT MOVE YOU TO A SAFE LOCATION.   Beware, if you go to a location that is not a repair center (ie:  a campground), they will not reimburse you for your expenses.   In our case, we moved to a safe location (campground) where we could explore service centers for a 4 tire changeover for the specific tires we needed.  That took a couple of days to get the tires and do the changeover.   They would not reimburse for the camping..... whoopee a whole $36.00.    

    The tire change prior to our move got denied also.   They claim they can't read the receipt and are not obligated to call the wrecker service that provided the changeover to the spare tire.  Been dealing with this since Oct 6.  All kinds of excuses and indications of not receiving our information via email.  Faxes are illegible.

     

    Again, I say don't DEAL WITH THIS SERVICE.

     

     

    This FMCA pdf explains how to call for Saferide ERS help: https://www.fmca.com/pdfs/roadside/roadside_checklist.pdf

    , however, it is quite confusing to me. Mr. Ball told me on Nov. 4 he was going to call his contact at Saferide and get back to me ASAP. I'll let you know the results after he gets time to answer my concerns about that document. I realize this is not his only focus, he's a busy man.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Virtually any HDT repair shop can work on the chassis portion of a MH. If they will or not is another matter, you must talk to them. I had my engine worked on at a local HDT repair shop, also a total alignment, they did excellent work.

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