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Posts posted by rayin
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I wish everyone health and happiness for the coming year!
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23 hours ago, jleamont said:IMHO, it would be more cost effective to pay for routine tire inspections and replace the steer tires every 5 years regardless of miles.
I totally agree! Not to mention the effects of additional un-sprung weight.
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I agree with Carl, 13.6VDC float is normal. Exide states my particular batteries should float charge at 13.8 VDC.
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I have an electric "suitcase" washer from Home Depot, yes it came in a plastic suitcase, it is 1,200 psi, which is enough for me. It is very handy to carry/store in a bay. I took it along on our Alaska trip, by the time we returned to Sumas WA, nearly everyone in the caravan had borrowed it.
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3 hours ago, AndyShane said:Both house and chassis batteries show normally charged mere seconds after this action
To me this, if accurate, indicates the batteries are not actually depleted/run down. Have you independently tested them by disconnecting each one and testing voltage level with a load tester? Have you measured for phantom amp draw? This would eliminate the batteries from the equation and narrow the possibilities to a faulty inverter/charger or the "device" Brett suggested; I would expect that "device" to be a BIRD unit+ solenoid in a high-end MH.
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3 hours ago, manholt said:I forgot one!
KISS=Keep it Simple Stupid
probably the most relevant acronym of all.
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35 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:My mantra.
Probably the most important acronym of all.
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I have experienced this situation with all three RV types. It's my considered opinion a well-matched 5th wheel trailer and 1T dually truck handles best in the situations you describe. One type MH not addressed is one with a tag-axle, I have not driven one yet, so that is unknown to me.
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9 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:If you can run the generator in storage why don't you just run the generator to charge your batteries? You should be running the generator any way.
Bill
I agree Bill; it's double-duty, keep both battery banks charged while adhering to the Onan recommendation to run the genset for 2 hr/month under at least 1/2 load. Furthermore, chassis batteries doe not run down like house batteries-from phantom loads.
OTOH, if the genset starts from coach/house batteries, which are the batteries usually connected to phantom loads, this would not work out well.
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Saw plenty in the states too. FUBAR -Flubbed Up Beyond All Recognition.
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The down-side of increased security measures_. I hope your CC company can fix this issue for you. If I incorrectly enter my zip, my card is rejected.
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The BIRD in the lower left of jleamont's picture is what controls charging both battery banks. That maintainer may work in conjunction with the BIRD.
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On 12/13/2019 at 9:56 PM, manholt said:Ray, I would never put that on my steering wheel
I did until Linda lost interest, still have them underneath my driver seat JIC she inquires. Happy wife, great life.
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The anode rod (Atwood brand does not use an anode rod) should be replaced when it is 1/2 gone/eaten away. That normally happens at least once a year, especially if you leave water in the tank during storage. When you remove both drain plug and over-pressure / relief valve, use an water heater flushing rod to clean out the bottom of the tank, you may add more water via the pressure relief valve opening too for additional aid in flushing.
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Welcome to the discussion forums!
I'm too late, the horse is out of the barn already; you now know the reason to never lift the rear wheels off the ground. The rear wheels keep coach from moving when parked and jacks are down.
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When our TriMark remote system died, Camping World replace it with the newer version. The new key fobs have the basement door button, however we have no electric compartment locks.
Wayne, after losing the TV antenna to tree limbs one time, DW bought me these steering wheel reminder slappers from rvminders.com. I think she also reminded me I'm old.
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Back at you Carl, and everyone! Happy Christmas and Merry New Year!
My mechanical shop got a pretty good Christmas present from me last week $2,183 for installing a new primary fuel pump and new air dryer system. Guess what I'm going to get , the CC statement. The extra labor was because the only access to the pump was to remove the starter first.
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When the Michelin dealer removed the failed tire, did he offer any explanation as to cause? When replacing just one dual tire, they must be within 1/4" in diameter: pg 73 of, https://commercial.bridgestone.com/content/dam/bcs-sites/bridgestone-ex/products/Databooks/Bridgestone-TBR-DataBook-v17.1-06-13-2017.pdf
As to service life: https://www.michelintruck.com/assets/pdf/bulletins/TB_Service_Life_RV_Tires.pdf
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1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:Not shure what "I will pull it out and check it" will do for you? The only checks are done with it installed. Is it leaking? if not it is good. Does it open when you activate the preshure release lever? if it does it is good. Does it seal up and not leak when closed again? Then it is good.
Bill
What Bill said, X2! If your valve is leaking, when you remove it, soak it in vinegar for a few hrs. Re-install and see if that corrects the leaking. If not, you only wasted a few minutes of time and 1C vinegar, then you may spend money for a new valve.
FWIW, they usually leak when the air pocket/pressure cushion that is supposed to be in the top of the tank is absorbed by the water. Your valve removal, or simply opening the valve handle, plus draining about 1G of water, restores the air pocket.
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4 hours ago, hermanmullins said:As said Particle Board wont hold too long. I can't remember who mentioned it but If it were me , I would take off the old top, go to a Granite, Marble or Corian shop and have one made from some sort of hard surface material. It may cost a bit more but I am willing to bet the DW would love it.
Most shops have lots of drops that they would like to dispose of. They have cutouts from sinks that the customer paid for and I am sure they would like to sell material that is already paid for.
Herman
Excellent point!
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4 hours ago, RLS7201 said:After you take the counter top off, look closely on the bottom side. You will see very small staples going up holding the tongue in the groove. Real bear to get out. You may want to purchase a cheap air stapler for the new trim. I had to replace all the trim in my 95 Bounder.
Richard
What richard linked-to is a press-fit, IF the groove is cut to width properly.
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3 hours ago, sgtjoe said:If I raised the PSI from 100 to 110 would this affect the 20 psi increase on the road?
Read my reply to richard, I think I explained it correctly. The pressure difference would be small IMO. FWIW, my tires have such a pressure increase, IMO it is due to the tire shops air compressor "water trap" efficiency and level of maintenance.
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3 hours ago, richard5933 said:If you changed tire size, then it's going to be really difficult to determine the cause here. Different tire geometry is certainly going to make a difference in how the tires react going down the road.
If the cold tire pressure is set properly for your weight according to the tire chart, then I wouldn't spend too much time trying to figure this out unless things suddenly change from the new baseline.
Can you explain what you mean by 'profound' effect? Could there be enough moisture in an ounce or so of water to make the pressure increase 12-14psi over the other tires? Of course, the different tire size will make this comparison difficult as well.
My apologies, profound was the wrong word, significant would be more suitable to the sentence and subject matter.
As to the size of the container, in this instance a truck tire, it is immaterial, as all ideal gas's have the same size molecules and occupy the same space when at the same pressure. ref: Avogadro's Law
Normal pressure change is (where is tireman9)2% for every 10° tire temperature change-using dry air/nitrogen. You may calculate that for your specific tires, then factor in Dalton's law. (I'm not up to doing the calculations at my age)
Using SgtJoe'''s tires for the example, tires set at 100psi; 2% = 2psi for a 10° temperature change. Now assume his cold tires are at 60° before he begins a trip, an hour into that drive/trip his tire temperature is 120°, a 60° temperature change = 18° when hot- with dry air/nitrogen; then Dalton's law (water into vapor expansion rate) comes into effect to further change pressure.
I forgot, each brand of tire has different characteristics due to construction materials and methods, which is an un-calculable variable to this subject.
Who, What, When, Where or Just Lets Talk
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I agree, road oil will not spray off.