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rayin

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Posts posted by rayin


  1. On 12/23/2019 at 10:40 AM, wayne77590 said:

    I have a 2500 psi gas one here at the S&B I used it only once on the coach and a few times on the TOAD.  Most all come with different nozzles. Mine has two tanks for solutions and in order for the solution to come out of the nozzle it has to be the "black" one which is the lowest pressure one.  Even then I kept the nozzle end 4-5 feet away from the coach or TOAD.  Worked fine - but I was not comfortble using it.

    Most mobile RV wash people use one for cleaning and I have had mine done several times over the years with no problems.  The key is, keep your distance, even with a water hose. Not a lot of pressure is needed to rinse a vehicle. Even with a pressure washer some time of cloth or brush is needed on the RV to get the dirt off.

    Just pressure alone will not do it and considering that I prefer "Wash Wax All" water-less wash. Does a great job.

    I agree, road oil will not spray off.


  2. 3 hours ago, AndyShane said:

    Both house and chassis batteries show normally charged mere seconds after this action

    To me this, if accurate, indicates the batteries are not actually depleted/run down. Have you independently tested them  by disconnecting each one and testing voltage level with a load tester? Have you measured for phantom amp draw? This would eliminate the batteries from the equation and narrow the possibilities to a faulty inverter/charger or the "device" Brett suggested; I would expect that "device" to be a BIRD unit+ solenoid in a high-end MH.


  3. 9 hours ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    If you can run the generator in storage why don't you just run the generator to charge your batteries? You should be running the generator any way.

    Bill

    I agree Bill; it's double-duty, keep both battery banks charged while adhering to the Onan recommendation to run the genset for 2 hr/month under at least 1/2 load. Furthermore, chassis batteries doe not run down like house batteries-from phantom loads.

    OTOH, if the genset starts from coach/house batteries, which are the batteries usually connected to phantom loads, this would not work out well.


  4. The anode rod (Atwood brand does not use an anode rod) should be replaced when it is 1/2 gone/eaten away. That normally happens at least once a year, especially if you leave water in the tank during storage. When you remove both drain plug and over-pressure / relief valve,  use  an water heater flushing rod to clean out the bottom of the tank, you may add more water via the pressure relief valve opening too for additional aid in flushing.


  5. When our TriMark remote system died, Camping World replace it with the newer version. The new key fobs have the basement door button, however we have no electric compartment locks.

     

    Wayne, after losing the TV antenna to tree limbs one time, DW bought me these steering wheel reminder slappers from rvminders.com. I think she also reminded me I'm old.

    image.png.1d4f3f6540c508cc3ed66f456a7fe92c.png


  6. Back at you Carl, and everyone!  Happy Christmas and Merry New Year!

    My mechanical shop got a pretty good Christmas present from me last week $2,183 for installing a new primary fuel pump and new air dryer system. Guess what I'm going to get , the CC statement. The extra labor was because the only access to the pump was to remove the starter first.


  7. When the Michelin dealer removed the failed tire, did he offer any explanation as to cause? When replacing just one dual tire, they must be within 1/4" in diameter: pg 73 of, https://commercial.bridgestone.com/content/dam/bcs-sites/bridgestone-ex/products/Databooks/Bridgestone-TBR-DataBook-v17.1-06-13-2017.pdf

    As to service life: https://www.michelintruck.com/assets/pdf/bulletins/TB_Service_Life_RV_Tires.pdf


  8. 1 hour ago, WILDEBILL308 said:

    Not shure what "I will pull it out and check it" will do for you? The only checks are done with it installed. Is it leaking? if not it  is good. Does it open when you activate the preshure release lever? if it does it is good. Does it seal up and not leak when closed again? Then it is good.

    Bill

    What Bill said, X2! If your valve is leaking, when you remove it, soak it in vinegar for a few hrs. Re-install and see if that corrects the leaking. If not, you only wasted a few minutes of time and 1C vinegar, then you may spend money for a new valve.

    FWIW, they usually leak when the air pocket/pressure cushion  that is supposed to be in the top of the tank is absorbed by the water. Your valve removal, or simply opening the valve handle, plus draining about 1G of water, restores the air pocket.


  9. 4 hours ago, hermanmullins said:

    As said Particle Board wont hold too long. I can't remember who mentioned it but If it were me , I would take off the old top, go to a Granite, Marble or Corian shop and have one made from some sort of hard surface material. It may cost a bit more but I am willing to bet the DW would love it.

    Most  shops have lots of drops that they would like to dispose of. They have cutouts from sinks that the customer paid for and I am sure they would like to sell material that is already paid for.

    Herman

    Excellent point!


  10. image.png.9471abf2d894204240eccb66d058b3c4.png

    4 hours ago, RLS7201 said:

    After you take the counter top off, look closely on the bottom side. You will see very small staples going up holding the tongue in the groove. Real bear to get out. You may want to purchase a cheap air stapler for the new trim. I had to replace all the trim in my 95 Bounder.

    Richard

    What richard linked-to is a press-fit, IF the groove is cut to width properly.


  11. 3 hours ago, sgtjoe said:

    If I raised the PSI from 100 to 110 would this affect the 20 psi increase on the road?

    Read my reply to richard, I think I explained it correctly. The pressure difference would be small IMO. FWIW, my tires have such a pressure increase, IMO it is due to the tire shops air compressor "water trap" efficiency and level of  maintenance.


  12.  

     

    3 hours ago, richard5933 said:

    If you changed tire size, then it's going to be really difficult to determine the cause here. Different tire geometry is certainly going to make a difference in how the tires react going down the road.

    If the cold tire pressure is set properly for your weight according to the tire chart, then I wouldn't spend too much time trying to figure this out unless things suddenly change from the new baseline.

    Can you explain what you mean by 'profound' effect? Could there be enough moisture in an ounce or so of water to make the pressure increase 12-14psi over the other tires? Of course, the different tire size will make this comparison difficult as well.

    My apologies, profound was the wrong word, significant would be more suitable to the sentence and subject matter.

    As to the size of the container, in this instance a truck tire, it is immaterial, as all ideal gas's have the same size molecules and occupy  the same space when at the same pressure. ref: Avogadro's Law

    Normal pressure change is (where is tireman9)2% for every 10° tire temperature change-using dry air/nitrogen. You may calculate that for your specific tires, then factor in Dalton's law. (I'm not up to doing the calculations at my age)

    Using SgtJoe'''s tires for the example, tires set at 100psi; 2% = 2psi for a 10° temperature change. Now assume his cold tires are at 60° before he begins a trip, an hour into that drive/trip his tire temperature is 120°, a 60° temperature change = 18° when hot- with dry air/nitrogen; then Dalton's law (water into vapor expansion rate) comes into effect to further change pressure.

    I forgot, each brand of tire has different characteristics due to construction materials and methods, which is an un-calculable  variable to this subject.

     

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