rhinderber

Thank you for the info I installed sway bushings not poly will do that will be under for shocks anyway.

The bags are at 90psi-tires 85psi- shocks may be original unit one owner have paperwork from day1 no shock replacement indicated they are bilstein

I have a 1998 Safari Trek with a p-30 chassis. The body moves back and forth side to side like a boat, I installed sway bar bushings did not seem to make a difference. Could shocks be the problem? air bags? What is the difference between sway and body roll? Same condition different terms?

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/202979/Whirlpool-Andnbsp-Ygmh6185xvb.html?page=5#manual

I am missing part of the window seal/guide on one of the sliding windows, I don't know what this part is called or where to buy some of this material. Included a picture

This product or similar may be what you are looking for. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014LR5PA2?psc=1

Unit is small 30' runs 19.5

You are the tire expert is it considered good practice to travel at 70 mph for long periods on "L" rated tires

Tires on my SRT-6 were Z rated 149 mph rarely over 130 MH slow 55-62.3 if you run high 70s you need P or Q rating

Is the letter designation a speed rating my tires are 123/125 weight m rated 81 mph J 62 mph am I mistaken

Thanks bud that is very productive

I have a 1998 TREK by Safari and as with older units I looked at before buying this one toilets and showers yellow with time. Toilets can be changed easily. Showers are a more difficult problem. Does anyone know how to restore the shower surround?

How do I check power pedestal with multimeter?

Do you have a switch that will change to house batteries for starting? I don't want to sound snide but you know there are 2 sets of batteries. I am also on our first RV these motor homes are set up in ways I was not familiar with. is there power to the red feed to the fuse panel.

Do any of these programs have clearance indicators I drove a truck for 3 yrs "(05/08)none of the GPS had clearance markers I had a map book with a list of all low clearance spots in the US and CAD the routes had bridge max weights. My TREK 12' and 16000lb so not a big problem for me. Some bus conversions and custom RVs' could get capped on clearance under 13'6" i

blew a heater hose and over heated

The damage was caused by my inattention, so even if the dealer would cover the cost I would not ask them to. I read somewhere that when operating an RV AC I should run the exhaust fans to remove hot air from the ceiling.I was thinking about this last night. the AC is a recirculating system,by operating the exhaust fans I am simply adding hot air to the area being conditioned by the air conditioner. When the TREK is back I will run the ac unit without the fans running and the vents closed before I upgrade to a 15000 BTU heat pump. A lot is a relative term, I am soon to be 71 I bought my first home a 1200 sqf 3br job for $10,094 at 19 yrs old, gas was $0.22 a gal so anything over $1.00 seems like a lot to me. LOL

The Trek is smaller 28', inside they are similar. Yours is more on the high end. Although Safari is a high quality unit. We have had this one for about 6 weeks It is at the shop now I managed to bend a push rod driving it home from the dealer don't know if I will decide on a new ac before it is finished I bought this one because it is shorter and has a large bath room and a table and chairs I don't like the booth setup.

will do

Thank you,I will look into a replacement of 15000 BTU. Is there a brand that you would recommend?

Air in at return inlet 80 deg air out over the evaporator coil at the nearest outlet 65 deg

I cleaned the condenser the evap coil both fans oiled motor on both ends replaced the foam seals and did a general clean inside the unit, including the return filter that is a kind of useless foam piece. As far as the CFM my MH is approx 1600 cf a 1000 CFM fan will circulate the area every 1.6 min.200 CFM every 8 min.this unit had 80 deg. in and 65 deg. out temp inside averaged 85 DEG after 3 hr.+/- When I said CFM seem low, what I meant was the CFM did not seem to be sufficient to over come the heat loss. I am thinking to over come this problem a larger single unit or two units. I have no experience with RV climate control,a mechanic once told me that my 1986 Cadillac had the equivalent cooling of a 3 ton home AC.I don't know if this is true or not but it makes sense when considering how fast a car will reach 150 DEG. inside. I am thinking 2.5/3 ton is about what is needed. I have found 15000 BTU is the largest available.Another problem is the lack of a powered vent in front I am thinking that would make installing a second unit in front more difficult.

I serviced it a short time ago. I don't believe the unit moves enough air, I haven't located the cfm on the fans on this ac. It should circulate space every 10 min or so.This is our first RV right now it is at the shop I some how managed to bend a push rod on #3 cylinder.

It is 50A with a 4000W generator

I have a 1998 Safari Trek 2830. It is my understanding that they are well insulated and they also have dbl pane windows and the storage areas under the unit are insulated and heated. I was doing some work on the inside the other day the temp outside was 93. the inside was 102 when I started never got below 80. Question is would It be better to go from 13500 BTU to 15000 BTU or add a second 13500 BTU unit, no vent in front of unit.