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Everything posted by johntelling

  1. Rich, that would be great! It is a 2005 Excursion 39L on a Spartan chassis. Thanks, JT
  2. No, actually I have not heard the pump coming on, and it drips with the pump off. The black and gray water tanks are on the side next to the drain, and there is nothing under them. There may be more than one fresh water tank, but, after crawling around underneath, the only logical place appears to be over the fuel tank. Thanks for the idea, though! JT
  3. Actually, I put a container underneath so I could catch and measure the amount leaking. No air on, no leak at the pump or any connection I can find. It appears that the water tank is over the fuel tank (between the fuel tank and the floor), and since the water is coming down over the fuel tank, that is probably where the leak is. I probably should have mentioned that it is a Spartan chassis. No way to get to the tank through the floor, so I am guessing that the fuel tank has to come out to get to it. Wonderful planning and design, don't you think? JT
  4. I have had my Fleetwood Excursion 39L for 10 years, and never bothered to find out where the fresh water tank is. Now I have a leak - actually, a slow drip - which I assume is coming from the tank.It drips when the pump is on or off, and loses about a quart in 24 hours. Does anyone know how I can get to the tank on this vehicle? Thanks,
  5. The issue is not the TV's themselves, but the switch box (which allows you to select the input source for each TV) and the cabling from it to the TV's. It is coax in and out. JT
  6. I am planning to switch from DirecTv to Dish, which requires that I purchase a receiver. The recommended one is the VIP 211z. However, it does not have a coax out to TV, and my coach is wired with coax. I have heard that the VIP 211Z output can be converted to coax, but I am not sure what this requires, or how well it will work. Any TV experts out there who can help me? Thanks, JT
  7. Thanks to all who responded about the possible glazed brakes. I tried the 'hard stop method', and the brakes feel a lot better. I am now not using my Pacbrake around town, and am getting more confident with the chassis brakes. JT
  8. Thanks, Rick. I am, going to try the firm braking method first, once the weather here in Sacramento clears up a bit. JT
  9. I will try the hard stop method, but I think I will leave the wife at home and replace any broken dishes before returning! JT
  10. Thanks, Brett, I will give that a try. I am quite sure that I have overused the PakBrake to the detriment of the service brakes. I will have to have a shop take off the wheels and sand the parts if that is needed, and I bet that won't be cheap! JT
  11. I have been told by an RV service place that the brakes on my coach (2005 Fleetwood Excursion, Spartan chassis, 350 Cat) are glazed. It seems to take a while to stop, and needs quite a bit of foot pressure to hold it at a stop light, but I don't have much to compare it with. What is the best way to deglaze them? I have heard that repeated hard stops from about 45 mph works, but it sounds a bit brutal. Do I need to have the discs and drums turned? Thanks, JT
  12. Rich, I finally found someone to look at my coach, and he just called and told me that it 'lost' the neutral. Not sure how or where -but thanks for all your tips and suggestions. I know a lot more about the switch and the EMS system than I did before, but still just enough to be dangerous, as my dad used to say! JT
  13. Rich,It is a Model 900 50 amp system, although I seldom find a 50 amp supply when I camp. JT
  14. Rich, thanks for the info. I am getting 123 VAC out of the switch either from the gen or shore line. I talked to Intellitec, they told me that if I am getting poser out of the switch in both conditions, it must be the EMS. The puzzler is that the display (and everything else) works with the gen, but not with shore power. Intellitec say the EMS can tell the difference between 110 from the gen and 110 from the shore line. I don't have the EMS manual, but I will check the 3 amp fuse on the board. JT
  15. Thanks for all the replies, but still confused: no breakers off, no switches off, inverter producing 120 VAC, The coach is a 2005 Fleetwood Excursion. If the switch is at fault, don't understand why I am getting 123 VAC from the switch, either with the generator ON with no shore power connected, or the generator OFF with shore power connected. The current flows out of the switch to the main breaker, then to a 20 amp breaker prior to going to the inverter. When I turn on the generator, the two relays in the switch both close. When I turn the generator off, they both open. Why I add shore power nothing happens. Should they stay open with shore power, and should both relays be doing the same thing? Thanks again for all the suggestions - I am quite baffled, and afraid that a repair guy will happily replace the switch and not fix the problem. My issue is finding someone local who can look at with within the next 3 weeks. JT
  16. No power from shore line: My Fleetwood Excursion has an Intellitec 00-00803-300 switch, and a Xantrex 458 Inverter/Charger. There is an Intellitec Load Meter EMS which displays the incoming power. When the generator is running, everything works normally. When the generator is off, and I am plugged in to a 30 amp (or 15 amp) shore line, the EMS does not display anything. The TV and other small appliances work, but the air won’t run – it does with the generator running. I checked the Intellitec switch, and it seems to be working normally, in that power is going to the main breaker. This is the case either from shore power or running the generator. The voltage coming out of the switch is about the same with shore power and the generator. The problem just started after I left the coach unplugged for a few days, then plugged it back in to the same 30 amp outlet. What am I missing? JT
  17. Thanks for the advice - I contacted Fleetwood and they told me exactly where the fuse is located. JT
  18. I have a 2005 Fleetwood Excursion 39L, and cleverly managed to blow a fuse while replacing the porch light, which was full of water... The front half of the interior lights are now not working, and although the fuses under the dash are all labeled, I can't find a blown one. Could there be another location with fuses for the interior and the porch light? Thanks, JT
  19. Thanks, everyone, for the great suggestions and information! JT
  20. What is the typical life expectancy of a propane/electric water heater? The Atwood in my 2005 Excursion works, but I wonder for how long. Do newer water propane/electric water heaters have any advantages over the old ones, other than age? Thanks! JT
  21. Ironically, the RV Comfort LCD display on my coach doesn't display properly when it is cold, so it it almost impossible to set the temperature. I tried warming up the display with a hair drier, and that works, so I know that ambient temperature is the issue. By the way, I live in Sacramento, so 40 degrees is cold for us! Does anyone know if the display can be changed, or do I have to replace the entire thermostat? And if I did, would that solve the problem? Thanks! JT
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