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Everything posted by johntelling

  1. Thanks to all who responded about the possible glazed brakes. I tried the 'hard stop method', and the brakes feel a lot better. I am now not using my Pacbrake around town, and am getting more confident with the chassis brakes. JT
  2. Thanks, Rick. I am, going to try the firm braking method first, once the weather here in Sacramento clears up a bit. JT
  3. I will try the hard stop method, but I think I will leave the wife at home and replace any broken dishes before returning! JT
  4. Thanks, Brett, I will give that a try. I am quite sure that I have overused the PakBrake to the detriment of the service brakes. I will have to have a shop take off the wheels and sand the parts if that is needed, and I bet that won't be cheap! JT
  5. I have been told by an RV service place that the brakes on my coach (2005 Fleetwood Excursion, Spartan chassis, 350 Cat) are glazed. It seems to take a while to stop, and needs quite a bit of foot pressure to hold it at a stop light, but I don't have much to compare it with. What is the best way to deglaze them? I have heard that repeated hard stops from about 45 mph works, but it sounds a bit brutal. Do I need to have the discs and drums turned? Thanks, JT
  6. Rich, I finally found someone to look at my coach, and he just called and told me that it 'lost' the neutral. Not sure how or where -but thanks for all your tips and suggestions. I know a lot more about the switch and the EMS system than I did before, but still just enough to be dangerous, as my dad used to say! JT
  7. Rich,It is a Model 900 50 amp system, although I seldom find a 50 amp supply when I camp. JT
  8. Rich, thanks for the info. I am getting 123 VAC out of the switch either from the gen or shore line. I talked to Intellitec, they told me that if I am getting poser out of the switch in both conditions, it must be the EMS. The puzzler is that the display (and everything else) works with the gen, but not with shore power. Intellitec say the EMS can tell the difference between 110 from the gen and 110 from the shore line. I don't have the EMS manual, but I will check the 3 amp fuse on the board. JT
  9. Thanks for all the replies, but still confused: no breakers off, no switches off, inverter producing 120 VAC, The coach is a 2005 Fleetwood Excursion. If the switch is at fault, don't understand why I am getting 123 VAC from the switch, either with the generator ON with no shore power connected, or the generator OFF with shore power connected. The current flows out of the switch to the main breaker, then to a 20 amp breaker prior to going to the inverter. When I turn on the generator, the two relays in the switch both close. When I turn the generator off, they both open. Why I add shore power nothing happens. Should they stay open with shore power, and should both relays be doing the same thing? Thanks again for all the suggestions - I am quite baffled, and afraid that a repair guy will happily replace the switch and not fix the problem. My issue is finding someone local who can look at with within the next 3 weeks. JT
  10. No power from shore line: My Fleetwood Excursion has an Intellitec 00-00803-300 switch, and a Xantrex 458 Inverter/Charger. There is an Intellitec Load Meter EMS which displays the incoming power. When the generator is running, everything works normally. When the generator is off, and I am plugged in to a 30 amp (or 15 amp) shore line, the EMS does not display anything. The TV and other small appliances work, but the air won’t run – it does with the generator running. I checked the Intellitec switch, and it seems to be working normally, in that power is going to the main breaker. This is the case either from shore power or running the generator. The voltage coming out of the switch is about the same with shore power and the generator. The problem just started after I left the coach unplugged for a few days, then plugged it back in to the same 30 amp outlet. What am I missing? JT
  11. Thanks for the advice - I contacted Fleetwood and they told me exactly where the fuse is located. JT
  12. I have a 2005 Fleetwood Excursion 39L, and cleverly managed to blow a fuse while replacing the porch light, which was full of water... The front half of the interior lights are now not working, and although the fuses under the dash are all labeled, I can't find a blown one. Could there be another location with fuses for the interior and the porch light? Thanks, JT
  13. Thanks, everyone, for the great suggestions and information! JT
  14. What is the typical life expectancy of a propane/electric water heater? The Atwood in my 2005 Excursion works, but I wonder for how long. Do newer water propane/electric water heaters have any advantages over the old ones, other than age? Thanks! JT
  15. Ironically, the RV Comfort LCD display on my coach doesn't display properly when it is cold, so it it almost impossible to set the temperature. I tried warming up the display with a hair drier, and that works, so I know that ambient temperature is the issue. By the way, I live in Sacramento, so 40 degrees is cold for us! Does anyone know if the display can be changed, or do I have to replace the entire thermostat? And if I did, would that solve the problem? Thanks! JT
  16. We once had a gas engined 30ft Winnie with no slides. I could not get over the noise level, especially going up hills, but that is, of course, a very subjective issue. We now have a 40' DP with four slides. It has a 350 hp Cat engine, and I would like a little more power. But then. I would also like a 45 ft coach! I am going out on a limb here, and guessing that the creaks and groans from the body of the gasser you tested are as a result of a less than perfect chassis, Perhaps DP's are put on a better chassis, typically, than gassers? There will be many, much more qualified, responses than mine, but my feeling is that there is less to worry about with a diesel - until something goes wrong! Most RV gas engines are just pickup truck engines. Most DP's have very serious engines which are going to last longer than most people what to drive them in an RV. Having owned our DP for about 5 years now, I would never go back. JT
  17. Well, I performed minor surgery, and there is, in fact, a UJoint under the rubber boot. Even if I put up with looking at the UJoint, there is also a large hole so I would be able to see the road between my feet as I drive. Since I was weaned on early English Morris's and Fords that doesn't bother me too much, but I think I will cover it back up and maybe tape over the whole issue to try to smooth out the corrugations. Thanks for the suggestions, though!
  18. Carl, Thanks for your response. My experience with talking to Fleetwood has not instilled me with confidence in them, so I think I will cut it off and see what is underneath. I suppose I can always put it back on. I wonder if there is a universal joint under the boot? JT
  19. I have wide feet, but I can't believe that I am the only one who had had this issue: on our Fleetwood Excursion's steering column, there is a corrugated boot at the bottom. Occasionally, when braking, my foot catches on this boot, which is a little disconcerting. Has anyone else experienced this, and does anyone have a solution? I wonder if it is possible to replace the boot with something without the corrugations? JT
  20. I am a bit late to this string, but I took the Splendide unit out of my coach single handed. I replaced it with a wine rack and shelves. The unit had a large stabilizing weight, which I removed. Once it was out, it was not that big a deal to get the unit out of the coach. I put it back together and sold it through an ad which I posted at Camping World - not sure if they still let you do that. JT
  21. Thanks, Rich. The problem I am having (maybe I should have started with this) is that it sometimes takes several minutes (as much as ten) for the air bags to start filling. It sounds as if there is an air leak, but that eventually goes away. As soon as the air stops hissing, the rig starts to rise, and then stays up without any issues. My puppy Leonberger is a lot better looking that I am, hence the picture! JT
  22. Rich, It is a 2005 Fleetwood Excursion on a Spartan chassis. JT
  23. Sorry if this has been asked before. When starting up, I am wondering if it is best to wait until full air pressure is reached before switching the air suspension to 'automatic', or just flip the level over as soon as I start the engine? Thanks, JT
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