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eric@babin.com

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Posts posted by eric@babin.com

  3. Posted · Report reply

    It's a bad day for the Radio Trop Rock bus.... changed the capacitors and we have the exact same issues.

    I've got a quote from Texas Custom Coach to replace with a new A/C for $1,605.  I may have to bite the bullet and just do it. Will keep old A/C for parts.

    I am getting a quote to see how much extra it would be to go to 15,000 BTU vice the 13,500 BTU.....  Any advice on if that is worth it?

  4. Posted · Report reply

    12 minutes ago, richard5933 said:

    Have you checked all the neutral and ground lines to be sure that they are all tight? Almost sounds like the washer/dryer breaker is acting as the conductor for the neutral or ground. Shut those breakers off and the remaining lines are faulting out.

    If you have a loose neutral terminal somewhere this kind of thing can occur.

    I'll check that out tomorrow. I have to shut everything down to work on an A/C anyway.... so that may be a good time to do a visual inside the breaker box. 

     

  5. Posted · Report reply

    6 minutes ago, kaypsmith said:

    My next test would to unplug the washer and dryer and test the breakers in off and on positions. Something is going awry in either washer or dryer if the EMS shows normal, if not, then disconnect wire from the breakers and test, if problem still there, then replace the breakers.

    Good idea.... Dryer unplugged and when I shut off the breaker it showed "brown out" error with one line going down to 7 volts.... 

  6. Posted · Report reply

    yep... another day, another issue.

    2014 Itasca Ellipse 42qd - Class A - 50amp

    I use a Progressive Industries EMS-PT50x

    Pedestal breaker tripped.

    Reset breaker.

    Progressive Industries protector shows no errors and both lines in the 120v range.

    Once the protector's time delay allowed power to RV everything is working fine... A/C units, stove etc.... (those don't run on inverter so I know power is restored)

    Problem...… my panels Powerline Energy Management System thinks we have no power?  What?  

    A little playing around and I remember my lovely wife turns off the washing machine and the dryer breakers when there is a storm. (washer broken 2x during storm... and it's very expensive to fix because of the labor to get in and out).

    So, wife turns breakers back on to make sure those still work.... 

    Guess what.... when she hits the dryer breaker to "on" EMS works fine..... 

    Why in the world would the dryer breaker affect the EMS panel?

     

    Pictures below of when the dryer breaker is in the "off" position:

     

     

    IMG_1876.jpg

    IMG_1875.jpg

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  8. Posted · Report reply

    15 hours ago, manholt said:

    Eric, if you freeze up, take it off Auto and use High cool.  I'm currently doing that on both of my working AC's due to high humidity!  My welcome back to USA from 2 months in Eastern Canada present !!!

    That is the problem... when I say the thermostat "freezes up" I don't mean cold freeze... I mean no buttons work... can't change it off anything... it's stuck!

  9. Posted · Report reply

    We needed a spot between two events we were attending for work between Lake of the Ozarks and Tulsa OK. We came across Whispering Woods RV Park at the Indigo Sky Casino in Wyandotte OK just off Hwy 60 on the border of OK and MO.

    At first research I saw the nightly rate at $15! It was $10 a night not to far in the distant past.... well, NOW it's $25 / night during peak season (until Nov1 I think?).  It's a little different park than I have ever experienced.  The majority of the spots are just parking places, like the truck section at a rest area, except each spot has 30/50 amp electric and water, no sewer. 7 or 8 of the spots are on their own with 30/50 and water, no sewer.  There is a dump station on site.  NOTE: Spot #4 has no water, no electric, no sewer. It's just a parking spot I guess?

    Also different than I have experienced, as you drive in, you pick your own spot, park, make  camp, then go to the front desk to register. 

    We got one of the basic spots (like at the rest areas mentioned above).  C/O is noon so as folks were filing out (and taking turns at the dump station) I moved over to a "stand alone" spot (spot #3) and then went tell the front desk we moved.  They were good with it. 

    It has a bath house and laundry that looks clean from the outside, we didn't go in....

    Security drives by often, it's well lit at night, and there is a shuttle service if you don't want to walk the 1 block to the casino. 

    You also get full use of the swimming pool which is very nice.

    It's really a nice, clean and quiet park.... especially for only $25!  

    We'll actually be staying here again on our way back from the next event.

    Recommendation- try to show up as close to check in time as possible to get the best spot..... but, even the "rest area type" spots are good.... since it wasn't crowded I think there was at least one empty spot between everyone in the park.  I assume check in is at noon since that is check out time.... I bet if you showed up a little early and grabbed a spot no one would notice. 

    CASINO REVIEW:  Nice new machines, nice selection.... HOWEVER..... I've been in hundreds of casinos coast to coast in the USA, and dozens in other countries.... this is THE smokiest casino I've ever been in! If you are a heavy smoker you'll love it... just inhale, no need to spend money on cigarettes..... I asked if there was a non-smoking section.... "only in the restaurants" was the reply..... guess what, even there the overflow smoke smell makes it impossible to eat for a non-smoker. We toughed it out at the slot machines for about 20 minutes.... we had to leave since we both had headaches from the smoke.... we had to shower when we got back to get the smoke smell out of our hair...… moral to this story.... RV park is great, casino is terrible for non-smokers.

    Here is a link to the website: http://indigoskycasino.com/stay/whispering-woods-rv-park

    Here is a picture of our rig in spot #3 with the casino in the background.

     

    indigo.jpg

  11. Posted · Report reply

    This probably won't work but now I do this for EVERY issue, because it does work about 1/4 of the time.... Unplug, shut down everything.... shut off chassis battery and coach battery banks..... wait 60 seconds and power back up.... I guess this resets / reboots everything and fixes things you never thought it might.... for our a/c when the thermostat freezes up, this is the only way to fix it. 

  12. Posted · Report reply

    On 8/16/2019 at 3:14 PM, desertdeals69 said:

    I changed one of mine.  I hung an electric winch in the rafters and made attachments under each of the 4 mounting screws for the cover.  Unbolted everything on the inside and lifted up, drove out and let the old ac to the floor and hooked up the new one and hoisted it up and drove underneath and lowered it down in place.  Took about 1/2 hour.

    Ye... that is kind of what I was thinking.... we have a large cover we park under at our home base and certainly has room for a winch.

    Hopefully the capacitor replacement fixes it though.... we'll know in a couple of days.

     

  13. Posted · Report reply

    OK... here are some numbers that may be helpful to others in the future:

    for my 2014 Itasca Ellipse 42qd.   

    A/C number 2 is:  Model: 47073A879

    Don't call Coleman unless you are a RV Tech or dealership... they don't want to hand out info... but, use the parts diagram online and you can figure it out.....

    Parts diagram with numbers here: http://old.rvcomfort.com/rvp/pdf_documents/r609c__1015.pdf

    I am ordering run capacitor part number 1499-572 and start capacitor (start device kit) part number 9333-9021both off Amazon for just over $50.

    Links:

    Start Device Kit (capacitor) (9333-9021) : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCR7GM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Run capacitor (1499-5721)r:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCSX3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

  16. Posted · Report reply

    It's always something.... Day 1 of our 4 week trip and our #2 A/C unit is crapping out.

    Symptom: When the compressor tries to kick on amps JUMP big time, compressor shuts down, fan blows fine, but obviously not cold. 

    I'm thinking of just replacing the entire unit rather than spending a crap load of money on troubleshooting etc....

    Two questions.... for a 2014 Itasca (Winnebado) Ellipse (Tour) is this the correct unit? https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/air-conditioner/air-conditioners-coleman-dometic/coleman-mach-8-135-wt_08.0214?gclid=Cj0KCQjwhdTqBRDNARIsABsOl9-h2Zm1_otnKrtJ58e5cNtYCQcI_9YO47UgWV9-YtEfWShofBnnR4UaAjaaEALw_wcB

    Question 2- How difficult would this be to replace myself other than the hassle of getting the 90lb unit to the roof?

  17. Posted · Report reply

    2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD

    I had a small leak which I THINK was coming from where the front cap attaches to the roof. 

    About this same time a friend of mine began having pretty bad issues with his roof on a 2004 Winnebago Vectra. I didn't want to be like him....  My roof was in decent shape, but why wait for catastrophe? 

    I decided to seal my roof.  Prior to this year the coach had been outside / not covered 100% of the time. Now it's covered when we are at home.... maybe 5 or so months per year.

    I wish I got a "before" picture but did not.

    A little research lead me to using Henry's Tropicool seam repair for the joints and roof coating for the rest. 

    Here are the results..... I'll keep you posted regarding my satisfaction over time.

    I can tell you it is easy as pie to apply..... not sure how much it would have cost to have it done by a "professional" but my total cost was $320 and about 2 hours of my time. ($240 for 4.75 gallons of roof sealant, $60 for 1 gallon of seam repair, $20 for brushes, rollers, tape.)  The 4.75 gallons was more than enough for the job... I have about 1 gallon or so left and will probably hit the thin spots with that tomorrow.... Be sure you get the right stuff... the "seam repair" is very very thick.... you will not be able to brush this on... use a putty knife... obviously it is for the seams.... the roof coating is slightly thicker than paint and can be rolled on..... obviously this is to cover the majority of the roof.

    The rumor is this stuff will also help with the heat.... we'll be in Florida most of next spring.... we'll see! 

     

    IMG_1793.jpg

    IMG_1794.jpg

    IMG_1795.jpg

    IMG_1796.jpg

    IMG_1797.jpg

     

     

  18. Posted · Report reply

    OK.... just got back from a trip where I was plugged into another pedestal.  Plug was hot there too.

    It's a molded plug (factory). No signs of damage, wear/tear, or water entry.

    I think I'll order a laser temp gun or whatever to measure the temperature of the plug. 

    Everything continues to work fine... but...… you know..... I don't want to wait for a larger symptom than a "hot plug". 

     

  19. Posted · Report reply

    2 minutes ago, hermanmullins said:

    Clean or replace your power cable's make plug and check your house receptacle (with the power of) for arc burns. 

    Do you always turn of the power when plugging on your coach? 

    Some of the main reasons for a hot power cable are dirty or arc burned plugs, a loose or bad connection and/or under size power cable.

    I have seen many power cable's where the pins are loose due to overheating.

    Good luck and let us know what you find. 

    Herman 

    ok.... 

    I can tell you I always have breaker off when I plug in, and turn it off before unplugging.  (although the power doesn't come on for about 5 minutes with the Progressing Surge Protector anyway.  

    The plug prongs are not dirty. 

    Common problem is loose connections from cable to ATS. I had my ATS replaced last year because of this... maybe it's time to check the connections? Maybe they are coming loose.

     

  20. Posted · Report reply

    18 minutes ago, wolfe10 said:

    Short answer is BE CONCERNED.

    Resistance with current flow= heat.  The more the heat, the more the wire/connection degrades producing more resistance.  Repeat until something fails.

    And on 50 amp power, if the neutral fails, voltage has no "reference point" and can vary from extremely low to extremely high.  This can easily damage 120 VAC appliances and the inverter/charger in your coach.

    Replace whatever has failed.  Even if the root cause was a bad outlet, if the shore power cord has degraded, replace it/or at least the bad end.

    How might I go about testing to see the root cause of the issue? 

     

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Coach: 2014 Itasca (Winnebago) Ellipse (Tour) 42qd

    Everything is working fine.... but....

    The 50amp shore power plug is very hot to the touch. Just the plastic part where the prongs come out and plug into the outlet. We are plugged into a surge protector Progressive EMS PT50X and all readings are good. All reading are good inside on the EMS.

    This is our home plug. I'll be plugged into a park pedestal next week and will see if it has the same issue.

    50amp cable doesn't feel that hot.  

    No signs of heat damage / melting anywhere.... 

    Outside temperature is about 100F. 

    Wondering if I should be concerned?  Also wondering if I should get one of those temperature reading laser gun thingys so I can monitor heat on things such as this. 

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    34 minutes ago, richard5933 said:

    Quite common in my experience. Due to the age of our coach, I often will arrange for parts to be delivered from one of my sources directly to the shop. The shop will install the parts, but since I didn't use their supply chain their warranty will only cover the work they did for R&R. For the warranty on the part itself I have to go back to the supplier I use for parts.

    I understand the desire to save a few hundred dollars, but that extra expense might buy you more than a washing machine - it might buy you a good relationship with shop so that they stand behind your new washing machine should anything ever go awry.

    If you supply the machine and something should go wrong and require warranty work, the shop might have difficulty getting anything done from the factory warranty even if they wanted to. I'm sure that they have contracts with their suppliers that cover warranty work, but if they were not the purchaser of the machine they may have limited recourse for warranty problems.

    I've never installed a washing machine in an RV, but the 8 hours doesn't sound too out of bounds. The shop where I take our coach will spend 30-40 minutes just prepping the inside of the coach for any repairs that require a tech to come inside. They do this to protect the flooring, furniture, etc, and I don't expect them to do it for free. If the machine is one that was installed with a shoe horn, it might take lots longer to swap out than you'd think.

    It is good to know this is normal practice. I had always thought the manufacturer honored the warranty..... I didn't realize a repair facility had control over warranty work.  I always thought the manufacturer of the product paid the repair facility for the work. 

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Not sure where this topic would belong... but here is my question:

    Is it standard policy for a repair shop to say they will not honor an appliance warranty if you did not buy said appliance with them.

    I am getting quotes to replace the washing machine in my Itasca Ellipse.

    The repair shop gave me a quote for a new washing machine and labor to remove old and install new.

    Problem 1 with the quote - 8 hours labor?  They don't need to diagnose old machine, they are putting in a new one. 8 hours? (but, that is not what this post is about...)

    Here is what this post is about - I told them I could save a couple hundred dollars if I purchased the washing machine online, so I asked if they would install a new machine that I brought in....

    Here is the reply " That is fine with us you need to understand if you have issues with warranty you will be on your own!".

    This is a repair facility I have used for over $10,000 worth of repair and maintenance work in the past 12 months... and that is the answer they give me.  

    I was previously very satisfied with them, but this reply is very disappointing. 

    Am I being over sensitive?  Is this simply standard practice / policy?  

    I am about to take my business to a facility 2 miles west of them...…………..

     

     

  25. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, wolfe10 said:

    First question-- does anything that normally only works with the ignition on work:

    Allison shift pad illuminate?

    Dash HVAC fan work?

    If not, first suspect is the IGNITION SOLENOID.  Easy to test.  If he needs instructions on testing with either voltmeter (better) or test light, let us know. 

    OK.... shift pad illuminates... so, must not be that. 

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