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Well I wonder if its any good and how much it costs?

Hello, on my 2005 Dynasty the ac was low on refrigerant and I charged it up but the hydraulic cooling fan isn't cutting in when the high side pressure goes up and the high pressure cut out will engage and shut the compressor down and it continues the do this. If I put the fan into failsafe mode by unhooking the module the fan runs continuously and the ac works good. I need to know where to find a wiring diagram or where the fuse or relay is for it or if someone else has had this problem, what was the issue with yours? I just found the problem and it needs a new cooling fan control module, part number is 1090822 and its made by Sauer-Danfoss but not having much luck finding one, apparently its made out of unobtainiam.... Let me know if anyone knows where I can find one please.

We are planning a trip starting in Manitoba and traveling west to British Columbia Vancouver and have been booking places to stay in Canada but no one recognizes FMCA for discounts, so I guess it must be just a USA thing. I'm wondering if there is a campground guide or a list of places that do recognize FMCA members or a trip planning guide as I'm pretty green with FMCA. I understand that by having a membership it gives me towing and roadside assistance is this correct and what are the limitations on it?

When I bought my coach I noticed the cooling fan kept cutting in and out randomly and found that if I wiggled the harness going into the cooling fan control module it would cut in and out, so I thought maybe a broken wire inside the insulation but that wasn't it, I found the problem was inside the module and when I checked the price of it I almost croaked so I thought I have to try and repair it. I first went at it from the underside and cut out the hard rubber that was poured in to protect the module circuit board and to keep people like me out. I could see the loose wire in the circuit board but wasn't able to solder it from this side, so I thought ok I know where the failed spot is, so I turned it over and very carefully drilled a large hole through the aluminum case and could plainly see the loose wire in the circuit board. I then proceeded to solder it in properly and then filled the hole in with (right stuff gasket maker/silicone) and after it hardened I plugged it in and it worked fine and has for three years now. I just thought I had to share this to try and help someone else out as I believe its probably a pattern failure problem.

Well if I don't use jack stands to hold the Coach up then how would you get under it?

Herman are you saying to spray the entire outside of it down before taking it apart to clean it?

My front air suspension will drop right down overnight, so I lifted it up as high as it will go and then sprayed down the airbags, lines, fittings and I found the solenoid 6 pack bubbling from between the solenoid and the base it mounts to. I ordered the o-ring seal kit for it and will be replacing them as soon as the parts arrive and I need to know if anyone here has had the same problem and is there any tips, tricks or problems you have ran into while changing them? I plan on lifting it as high as it goes, put the safety stands under it and lower it down onto them and drain all the air out of the system and take it apart. I have included a short video of the leak as well. IMG_7181.m4v

No I have the aqua hot heater off.

Well thats what I was kinda thinking because all that stuff has to get its power from somewhere.

Well after going through and checking every wire connection for looseness, in the ATS and in the breaker boxes and then blowing out the ATS relay contacts I then went and plugged into a 50 amps service everything worked fine. I then plugged into a 30 amp service and everything was good but the rear a/c would turn on and off due to too much load on the 30 amp circuit which is normal but if I ran the front or rear a/c separately it worked just fine. I'm not sure what I did to fix the problem but I think blowing out the relay fixed it as there must have been something in the contacts, either that or it temporarily fixed itself and the problem will come back again. I watched the monitor to see how much leg 1 and leg 2 were drawing for amperage and I'm not sure how things are split up and what runs on what. I have taken some pictures to show you guys. I thought the front two a/c units ran on leg one and the rear on leg 2 but I"m not sure now.

Rich I tested the resistance across the L1 L2 and L3 circuits when closed and it was zero ohms, all the wires look good inside the box, both ends of the shore power cable are good and the resistance is also good, I bought a new 50-30 amp adapter to try as well, the 104 volts was measured using the neutral wire, I removed the a/c panel box covers and checked all connections and they were tight.

Well I can go to a campground just outside of town and plug it in to see what happens.