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This is a new rig, and I've had this problem, twice. Others have reported the same thing happening, with their Dometic 8700 mascerating toilets. Once the Black tank reaches 75%, the common recommended minimum prior to dumping, one or both toilets can quickly "go Red," meaning the Red full tank icon illuminates and electrical power is inhibited. Putting a finer point on it, if one toilet has a red icon and the other is still yellow, the latter is still for the moment functional. 'Problem that owners are having is, the red light remains on after a Black tank dump and it often will remain on, following dump and rinse. Same deal, however: if one toilet was yellow prior to this condition, it will revert to a blank display and work normally. But, there is some glitch in this design and/or programming that can leave one or both toilets "stuck" on Red despite an empty/clean tank. In our case, we are a new rig, a 2019 Newmar DSDP 4018 purchased at the end of summer. We have no children or teenage girls, and eat lots of fiber. No, seriously, we use the toilets delicately, ie a two-flush system, modest paper usage, no wet wipes, etc. The fix for this condition is relatively simple: find the control module for the affected toilet -- it looks like a black deck of cards -- and clip the yellow wire. That defeats the Full level sensor, restores normal operation. The caveat of course is, you've now defeated the Full inhibit function and can overflow. In the aft-bath DSDPs with their novel escape door (a handy way to converse with neighbors while attending to business), the process is painfully easy: open the escape/socializing door, reach into the now exposed toilet cavity from outside and unclip the yellow wire. For the powder room and many other applications, the module could be anywhere on its 6-foot harness, like under the sink or inside the wall. For DSDP owners, some have found the powder room module located behind the "Newmar pegboard." In our case, it is mounted above the pegboard and behind the adjoining plastic fairing. I took a photo, for reference. Having endured this condition twice in our first six months of usage, I'm creating a simple fix: each toilet will have a nearby guarded emergency-use-only switch labeled SENSOR OVERRIDE to restore operation when flushing is inhibited by a false Full indication. I'll save this with lots of tags, to shorten the learning process for those who'll encounter this problem, on the road.

Backstory: I've got a vacuflush system on my 2017 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 36U. The pump began to run continuously. Not too uncommon, and it's always been a small piece or tissue or something caught in the gasket seal right at the location that opens when you hit the foot pedal (not sure what that is called). This time that seal was fine ( I could tell because it wasn't sucking water through). After some research I learned it was probably something in the duck bill valve on the pump. (symptom included clogged toilets and continuous running vacuflush pump) Dug into the system and YES>>>>> that was it.... cleared and cleaned the blockage. Pump and system worked fine for about a day then begins to stay on all the time. Symptoms were slightly different as the pump would stay on but drain slowly. Would not drain if I turned pump off. I figured it could not be the same issue, blockage, because no solids had been put into the system since I cleaned it the day prior. Just prior to breaking the system apart again to see if I could find the problem I ran the pump to drain all the water out for less of a mess when I disconnected everything below. Well, bad news.... the pump stopped.... but not because it had achieved the desired pressure.... the toilets would not drain, and the pump would not run. I pulled the system apart and sure enough, no clog. No obvious reason it would not keep pressure. I thought it might be a duck bill valve damaged slightly and not obvious to the eyes.... I cleaned everything up, cycled the pump by hand to simply check to see if it was frozen up, or binded somehow.... It cycled manually just fine.... but would not cycle when turned on. You could hear it make a small noise when the switch was turned on, but would not cycle. Since the system really won't drain without the pump I bypassed the entire system and am now on gravity drain, which doesn't work very well, and obviously we can put solids in there. The pump I have is: Dometic Vacuflush (pictured below). I guess at this point I'm looking for any ideas I may have missed that are obvious? or.... if anyone knows a place that can work on this pump in the Clermont FL (S.E. Orlando) area I can bring the pump in. It's not hooked up so it would be easy to do. OR..... IS THERE A WAY TO PERMENANTLY BYPASS THIS CRAPPY SYSTEM???? My friend has a 3" pipe that goes directly into the black tank from his toilet. I would love that!!!!! The hoses on the vacuflush are as small as 1" near the pump..... a recipe for clogs if I've every seen one. I can't keep it bypassed like I have it now because of the small hose, and how it has to go down, then back up..... the pump is what pushes the contents back up a foot or so to get into the top of the tank. Right now we are at Winter Quarters Manatee Encore park near Tampa but moving up near Orlando Thursday Dec 21. Dometic Vacuflush 12VDC LPVG-W-PUMP Assembly

I'm troubleshooting why the igniter will not light my Dometic refrigerator. I have done the following troubleshooting steps. 1. cleaned the chimney and burner tube. I checked the gap on the burner tube and igniter. I also removed and cleaned the propane jet. 2. I verified 12 volts at input source from the RV. 3. I verified 12 volts on each side of the over temp switch. Now, I am trying to determine if the igniter is bad.I can manually light the unit and it does fine. There is no spark between the igniter and the burner tube.Is there a way to check the igniter for voltage? I read somewhere not to hook to that, as it would burn up the multi-meter. I see a grey wire leaving the control board that connects to the igniter. Thank you, BIll

Hi Folks - I have a Dometic refrigerator (Model RM2652) in my 2007 Class C FR Sunseeker. If I'm on shore power, it seems to cool perfectly, well below the 40-42 degrees I want. However, I boondock for weeks at a time and the fridge on propane can't seem to get cooler than 50 degrees. The freezer stays extremely cold and frozen food is fine. But normal fridge foods - milk, yogurt, meats - only last 7 days at the most. I cleaned the air flow tube, verified that the igniter works, and the unit is getting adequate propane. I've taken it off the auto electric/propane option and set it to only use propane. (It tried to run the fridge on electric whenever I turned my inverter on...sending the coach batteries into a downward spiral.) This Dometic has 'automatic, factory specified' temp control, so I don't have the option to turn it down. Is there anything else I can try... Thanks, Nan

This evening, while sitting comfortably in our rig we noticed a plastic smell permeating the air. Further investigation revealed it was coming from the rear duct work and the rear AC was not blowing cold air. I turned off the AC and the smell went away. Also climbed on the roof but didn’t notice any residual smell in the rear AC. Not even sure where to begin troubleshooting this one. Any suggestions? thanks, Marc 2006 Fleetwood Discovery 39S Katy, Tx.

I have two AC units on my Class A Newmar Baystar. I left the MH with the AC on and when I returned it was off. There is an E1 code with the zone 2 flashing. Research has indicated that this means the zone 2 AC unit is not communicating with the Dometic controller and thus neither will operate. I've tried powering off and on, including shore power. Should I climb on top of the MH and look to see if there is a loose connection at the AC unit? If so, do I need to remove the AC cover and is that easy? Is there any special precautions I need to take. Thanks-I'm just looking if there is an easy potential solution. Kimm

We had a Norcold portable freezer refrigerator in one of our basement compartments. It recently quit working so we had it checked out, it was a total compressor failure, so no use trying to repair it. Time to buy a new unit. We searched the internet looking for a unit that would fit the existing compartment and slide out drawer. This was an arduous process. Many of the web sites had incorrect (when compared to the actual manufacturers web pages) information. The dimensions were especially confusing, even on manufacturers web sites. They were inconsistent in their labeling of width, height, and length. We were comparing two units from a single manufacturer. The pictures looked almost identical, but one unit listed the width as the biggest dimension, the second called the height the biggest dimension. After wading through the confusing information we found a Dometic unit we thought would fit, judging from the dimensions on the web. But we weren't sure because of all the confusion. Luckily we found a RV dealer (LazyDays in Tucson, thank you) that had one in stock and would pull it, open it, and let us check it out. So we started measuring it and got more confused. None of the dimensions matched the info. we had. After scratching my head for a while I had and idea. I measured the shipping box. It matched!!! The info. on the web was the size of the shipping box, not the actual refrigerator! So the unit was slightly smaller than what we thought, but it would fit. I don't know if other manufacturers dimensions would have the same problem, but beware! Another issue was the supply voltage. We had a unit that would run off 12V or 120V and would auto switch between them, using 120V if available. We wanted another unit that would do the same thing. Most of the units we looked at claimed to work on 12V or 120V, but further investigation revealed they only had a 12V plug, I would have had to buy a separate 120V to 12V converter, then manually switch the plugs if the voltage source needed to change. So again, beware, do a careful search, download and read the operators and service manuals if you can find them. We ended up with a Dometic CF-80US because it was the closest match to the size of our old unit, and because it had the true 12V and 120V operation with auto switching. Just be sure to do your homework if you are in the market for a portable freezer fridge. The best bet will be to look at actual units, open them and look at the manuals.

I have a Dometic two-door (freezer on top) unit, NDR 1062, in a 2007 Tiffin coach. The cooling unit failed in October, 2011 and was replaced by a Viking replacement cooling unit which has worked fine. Until now. After leaving the Tiffin service center in Alabama a few days ago we have noticed that the refrigerator is not cooling properly. The freezer does a good job of freezing ice and keeping it frozen but the refrigerator is not much below ambient. Gas or electric does not seem to make any difference. The burner is clean--no scale, and has a good blue flame. The chimney is good and hot to the touch. Any thoughts on why one part would work OK and one would not?

I have water getting into my ice cube tub. I have cut back on the cube size. I need some ideas.