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Does anyone know of a mapping app that lists all the propane filling stations in the US? I don't see it on GasBuddy or any of the trip planning apps.

I have an Atwood tankless water heater (model OD-5001CW) with a strange problem. All of a sudden, it quit heating water. With water flowing, I could hear the igniter clicking but it didn’t ignite. In troubleshooting. I took the pressure regulator off the hose. Still nothing. I then opened the pressure relief valve on the water heater and it instantly lit. Pressure relief valve closed, no ignition. Pressure relief valve open, ignites immediately. Any thoughts as to next steps/resolution would be appreciated.

Hi Folks, I drive a 2010 Winnebago Vista 30W...Class A. My water heater...fueled with propane...no longer produces hot water. It gets lukewarm at best. I recently cleaned the connectors so that the pilot would come on...but only lukewarm water is produced. Could someone tell me how to troubleshoot the problem? Thanks...Nan Wright

We have a 2012 RS Adventurous ... I'm thinking about upgrading the standard gauges that are merely "estimates" even according to Roadtrek, the manufacturer..YES, I called them and they confirmed that the gauges were NOT accurate.... SO, I'm thinking of getting See Level gauges.. that ARE supposed to be ACCURATE... Have any of you had experience with See Level gauges?? Please respond....

I am a two week old Rver and as much I appreciate advice from all my new friends, I am confused about the signs on the road about "Hazardous Material Vehicles", "Tunnels" and my responsibilities or duties as a driver. Driving my new rig from Florida to Torrance, California has giving me more experience, but as I was driving in Alabama and Arizona, I encounter a "Tunnel" and "A hazardous Material zone" which in both cases I panicked and took the detour. Some of you are probably laughing by now, but when you are new and dealing with size, weight and length of your new toy and your wife as the co-pilot, it is simply "terrifying" to say the least. I heard so far: (1) Check your local law. (2) Call DOT (lol). (3) This rule does not apply to us (RV's). (4) We don't carry enough propane to make it dangerous or illegal (5) Just watch for the tunnel clearance, that's all. (6) Turn of the propane. Can someone, please provide reading materials or provide me with an answer that will help us be safe on the road? Thank you, Phil & Cindy Benonguia

I have a propane 7CC Kohler generator that will start but once the starter button is released, it stops. I've checked several things and want to find the Low Oil Pressure switch. Does anyone know where it is? The diagram does not show which side of the generator the switch is located. Any other suggestions/comments. Can't seem to find anyone that will look at a kohler generator. Thanks Allan

The flame in my Atwood water heater in my 2004 Minnie Winnie fails to burn with a constant burn. Instead it goes 'pfft' and won't heat the water properly.

Still learning about our 2010 43QGP Allegro Bus. I appreciate the help and support, as well as tolerance for my many questions. We have a two burner propane stove. Its the only propane device in the unit. The left side works fine. Strong, blue flame. The right side will light, but goes out immediately when I release the knob. While its lit the flame is strong and blue. I've held the switch in for up to a minute. The automatic lighter clicks the whole time. Camping world tech (Gee, hope this one spark another toilet paper war ) told me the burner was dirty and needed cleaned. Does that make sense to folks? Seems more like a thermal coupler issue, but not sure if these units have those installed. If folks agree that cleaning can help is there a good youtube video on the procedure ?

I have a 1996 Beaver Patriot with a 40 gallon propane tank mounted just behind the front tires. It provides propane to the Onan generator and to the coach refrigerator, stove, furnace and hot water heater all of which work well and have been well maintained. I have noticed a very faint smell of propane when I first open the service door to the tank where the valves, regulator and gauge are located. The smell dissipates rapidly once the door is open and often I am the only one who can detect the odor. I have checked connections and used leak detector (bubble fluid) and can find no leak. A visible inspection of the tank reveals no problems though because of the undercarriage mount I can not clearly see every square inch. I have never detected any odor in the coach, basement or at any of the appliance outside connections. Since the generator is seldom used I keep the liquid valve which supplies it turned off. Is this normal or do I have a problem? Thanks for any insight. Tom Newbie in an older coach.

I'm getting ready to snowbird to Desert Hot Springs for a few months this winter. With the cost of propane down at about $2.00 a gallon I was wondering what it would cost to run the refrigerator off of propane compare to shore power. Shore power is 13.5 cents per amp hour and was costing me about $60 per month. The information I was able to look up so far is that the refrigerator is about 500 watts running on shore power. Someone has posted somewhere on the web a formula of calculating the break even point of kwh cost compare to cost of a gallon of propane but I can't seem to find it. The question is how long will a 12 cu feet refrigerator run on a gallon of propane. I figure that about half of the cost of shore power I used last year was for the refrigerator alone but I could be wrong. Does anyone know the calculation?

I drive a 1994 Foretravel U-240. The Volta CO/Propane detector has started making a chirping sound, one chirp every +/- 45 seconds. This is an intermittent problem. Usually one of the lights (CO or Propane) illuminates when this occurs. This morning both lit up but eventually went off once the chirping stopped. This happened a few weeks ago while driving from the Sierras to the SF Bay Area. The propane does not shut off like it does during a full-blown alarm condition. I checked connections for all propane appliances and found no leaks after spraying with a soapy solution. I suspect that this hard-wired system is original to my coach. I cannot find any thing online regarding Volta Technologies other than a kit for sale on Ebay. I need suggestions for next steps. Thank you. Tom

Heating--what would you do? I have begun living full time in my new (to me) Canyon Star 3856 Ford V10 gas. I work in the Tetons from late Apr to late Oct so the nights can get down in the low 30's during Apr and Oct. I am a little concerned about preventing my water pipes from freezing. I have 2 ac/HP and 2 propane furnaces. I am not sure if I can get propane delivered to my coach in the park. I have been looking into several things and was hoping to hear from some people with more experience than me (I have none). I was thinking of getting (2) of those little 200 watt heaters to put int he basement compartments near the tanks? These would be run off the site electric (something I am provided with for my employment). What do you think of this idea? Since the HP is not very good below 40 degrees, I was thinking of using space heaters in the coach and heating electrically. My options here that I am considering are: 1) Using the Dyson oblong/circle fan/heater--it is on sale at COSTCO, is very quiet, and I think if placed at the front of the coach by the driver area facing rear ward, it would heat the entire coach. On cold nights I could open the water cabinets to aid getting heat in there. 2) Using those oil filled old fashioned radiators to provide the heat. They are also quiet, cheaper than the Dyson (even if I buy two) but they would take up a bit more room. I was also looking at the Cheap Heat system I saw on one of the RV emails I get daily but I think I would have to install (by a professional) 2 of these since I have 2 furnaces. This would eliminate having to use propane, however, as good as this system sounds it may be way more than I can afford to spend between the cost of the parts and the extra labor charges for an RV professional to install. Anyone have this and what do you think? So, what would you do? Long post--I am sorry, but need your expert advice...or just your honest opinion. Thank you.

The other day I went to exercise my generator. (really went to get out of the heat in the RV with the A/C on ) Anyway, the propane detector went off. I am thinking it was because of the fumes from the generator, because I still had the door open and the fumes were coming up from under the coach. The RV is a little over 7 years old. I wonder if it's time to replace the propane detector and if so is it something that I could do myself or do I need to have it done at a licensed repair shop?

Purchased new class A Dutch Star with Factory pickup. Had them install a propane line for gas grill connection from the unit built in tank. My prior unit had such a line, but it was high pressure off tank and used the regulator off the gas grill unit. Used an adapter hose to connect to the grill regulator having a typical 1lb disposable tank connection. The factory folks said by code they would have to install the line after the system regulator, which means low pressure. Now the grill won't work because (I think) the pressure is too low for the gas grill regulator to function. All my current hoses/connections need the gas grill regulator in place. Can I figure out how to eliminate the gas grill regulator and connect direct? Anyone know of a solution?