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Has or is anyone having suspension issues regarding severe RV leaning issues due to Ford F53 leaf springs and stabilizer units? I have a 2017 Holiday Rambler Vacationer (36H) that had to be towed by Ford Roadside Assistance on June 14th and Ford has or will not resolve RV warranty repairs as of today (Day 59)! Stuck in Mississippi and desperate for information or help . . . dfrederick8330@gmail.com

Thanks for any suggestions - I do not do my own repairs. Last week my 2000 Fleetwood Discovery (new air suspension bags in September, 2018) decided to set off the alarm that I had no air in my front suspension air bags. However, the coach did not act like it had deflated any air. The flip switch for air (auto or low) was in the correct auto position for moving down the road. So the dump valve may be sticking? Is this an easy fix? I took the coach to the Peterbilt in town (the nearest freight liner is 3 hrs away), they couldn't figure it out. The RV repair shop in the nearest town had no idea why that would occur, either. Suggestions on what I may be able to do myself (if minor) or how to be prepared to discuss with a reputable shop that won't "take a girl to the cleaners"? Thanks!

Hi, I am new to the FMCA and am looking forward to being part of the community. I own a 1996 Freedom Wide LTV on the dodge Ram 3500 Van. It has been a bit of a challenge due to suspension problems over my almost 6 yr years of ownership but really a fun coach, very manoeuvrable and a great little camper. I'll soon be ready to move to my second but for now I'm a bit stymied with my current RV. To delay the purchase of a new motorhome I decided to do some sprucing up, the entire story is too long to post here but it's been almost 2 months with more than a few bad mechanics and other troubles. My current situation which I find puzzling is tires! Actually upgrading to new tires (and new bilstein) shocks seems to have instigated difficulties. Here are some details, perhaps someone else has a motorhome like this one and shed some light on this for me:. Single rear tires, LT 225/75R-16 E GVW is 8,510 on the door is pounds. Fully loaded I weighed it at 7,800 pounds. I installed 4 new Michelin LTX M/S 2 tires.. I loved them as they gave my rig a wonderful ride, however the tires introduced a bad road wander making it almost impossible for me to navigate freeway speeds and the normal winds in my area. The worn tires I'd removed were Open County, I did not much like them but I waited until they worn out before replacing them with the Michelins. I had my vehicle inspected believing it needed alignment and was told that the problem was the tires, the owner of the shop believed that the tire sidewalls were causing the rear tires to bulge and therefore causing the front end to sway back and forth. I'd previously installed rear wheel spacers and both a front and rear stabilizer / steering damper and had replaced the ball joints. I called Henderson's Line Up in Oregon for advice and they recommended I replace the M/S 2's with XPS Ribs. I did this and it was somewhat improved but not enough. I wound up seeking service at several other shops and eventually installing a new steering gearbox, a new front steering damper and a new steering gearbox stabilizer. during this time it was found there was also a brake pull which was corrected with a complete front end brake service. After careful study and several mechanics it was determined that the steering will now continue to improve (I hope), It's been aligned several times and the front end has had several detailed inspections. It seems the new steering gearbox will require driving time, to help it settle in along with the other new parts. My dilema is now the tires, I've found I intensely dislike the rough and jarring ride from the XPS Ribs. The Ribs have negated my satisfaction with the bilsteins. I am in the process now of lowering the tire pressure, it helps a little but the best explanation was offered by an RV tire shop in Fullerton who explained that the Ribs are better intended for a heavier vehicle, like a plumbers truck and not intended to give a nice ride to a little motorhome like mine. His suggestion, the LTX M/S 2!!!!! After checking with many shops, I can find no consensus on a good (better) tire for my Freedom Wide but I remain eager to swap the Ribs for something else so I can enjoy all the recent work and upgrades to my motorhome. . My current shop is researching what tires would be best fit, they have suggested the Michelin M/S tire but I am worried with all the differing suggestions and would very much like feedback on this problem. My RV is an older one but other than this last issue it's ready for fun. I will add that I might tough out the rough tires but I travel with dogs and they react very badly to the rough ride. Thank you. Jamie

I have a 2002 Monaco Diplomat with 100,000 miles. The ride is extremely rough. Coach weighs about 5000# at each front corner and 10000# at rear corners. New Michelin tires, 85# front 95# rear, 40,000 miles on Koni shocks. Air suspension with 2 air bags at each corner and the air gage on the dash reads 115-120# when traveling. I suppose the shocks could be to blame but I suspect it is more than that. Is it possible that the ride could be improved by lowering the pressure in the air bags? If so, how would I go about doing that? genemarshall@comcast.net

I have a 2004 Winnebago sightseer with 7600 miles. Recently had in shop for new control board on leveling system. I now have a loud banging noise coming from front passenger side. It only happens when going over a bump. I checked front compartments for anything flying around - nothing. I called the shop and they had the RV on a lift to check the front jacks. I took to get front tires replaced as scheduled and asked them to look for anything that doesn't look right. They said the king pin was dry and greased it. Noise is still there. I am not a mechanic so need some thoughts on where to look. thanks for any advice you can lend. Joe

TCi in Fort Worth was designated by the FMCA as my Michelin dealer, I'm glad they were. Superb service! The technician who installed my new front tires gave me the option of installing new valve stems, I asked for his input. "The rubber O-ring is the thing, we can't determine its condition without taking the stem apart; and, if we do that, we can't put it back together," he replied. The cost? Ten bucks. Of course, let's yank 'em off and install new ones, I said. It made sense; I mean, why seal old ones away for another five years? Well, the condition of the seven year old stem, once taken out, was not good. The chrome plating was coming off, the O-ring dried and brittle. "You won't believe the number of blowouts that start when that valve core yields," he says. Oh? It gave me chills to think I was on the verge of keeping the thing in place for a third set of tires... So, word to the wise: spend the $10 and have peace of mind.

I noticed during a check of the front suspension that my tie rod end boots were tattered. There was lots of grease around them, fortunately. On the advice of MH owner friends, I just dropped my tie rod, glued on universal boots purchased for $8 from the auto parts store. It required a Pittman Arm Puller, the larger size, loaned from the store. And, an impact wrench was required to break loose the castellated nut, re-torque it to the specified 250 in lbs setting. The new boot doesn't have the stiff ring molded into the upper edge, but has a thicker wall than the notoriously flimsy stock items. According to Spartan, if the boot has been broken for an unknown period, the tie rod end must be replaced. Their technical manuals have specifications for assessing wear that necessitates replacement. Since mine were both tight and encased in grease; so, I repacked them, and returned to service. I just came in from a test drive minutes ago, and all seems well. Pictures are at my online Picasaweb album HERE.