southwind32v Report post Posted June 25, 2017 I have a 2007 Monaco Camelot with an ISL 400 Cummins and a side mount radiator and a hydraulic radiator fan. The radiator fan keeps engine temperature just fine. However after about 3 to 4 hours of run time the inside of the bedroom closet is 177°. There is insulation. I need help-- I'm thinking I have to cut slots in the engine cover (rear of coach) and also put a small flex fan on the end of the water pump just to move air around in the engine compartment. Has anybody else ever had this problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 25, 2017 I would sure start by insulating the roof of the engine compartment in that area. And yes, additional exits for the hot air would also help. Some have removed the full width mud flap which also aids air flow. Our Alpine with the same engine/side radiator did not even have the full width mud flap from the factory for this very reason. Is this closet above the CAC/radiator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
southwind32v Report post Posted June 25, 2017 Thank you for your response. The insulation that the repair facility wants me to buy is so thin I don't think it'll work however they say it's very good I believe it's called Dynamat. Very interesting about the mudflap. I'm not sure what the CAC is however the overflow or return for the radiator is underneath the closet. If this will help any there's a valve called a Danforth valve and it controls the speed of the hydraulic driven radiator fan that valve was broken and stuck wide-open thus the radiator fan was running full speed all the time when that was happening there was no heat in the closet or the bedroom. thank you for your time jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 25, 2017 Jim, You do NOT want the hydraulic fan on wide open all the time. You are devoting a lot of extra fuel and HP to do that. And, agree, high air flow will solve the problem. But insulation is a much better answer. CAC= Charge Air Cooler. Actually hotter than the radiator most of the time. It is the outermost "layer" in the cooling package. An air to air radiator which takes hot intake air from the turbo and cools it before sending it to the engine. No first hand experience with Dynamat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted June 25, 2017 Dynamat is a commonly used as a insulation sound deadener. I would have them use a double layer under the closet where it is hottest. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted June 25, 2017 I redid our insulation in the engine bay with this product. https://m.summitracing.com/parts/the-14100?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-thermo-tec&gclid=CjwKEAjwvr3KBRD_i_Lz6cihrDASJADUkGCaHP2OTEncoz3mLsFAVKPcrHmMYTSxOGynBLS26JIxrhoC97_w_wcB i used the glue they sell and pop rivets with fender washers to hold it up. Our insulation was brittle and left it in place where it wasn't hanging down. cleaned and went over it with the new. Worked well so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted June 25, 2017 We have a rear radiator and the bedroom is never objectionably hot. Only takes a short time to cool things down with the rear a/c. Finally, an advantage to having a rear facing radiator? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 25, 2017 Byron, No, do not believe that is a valid conclusion. Probably more a question of lack of insulation in the OP's coach. Said another way, with a rear radiator, MORE heat is trapped in the engine room upon shut down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted June 25, 2017 I am ok with it. When we shutdown, the rear of the coach is easily cooled off, and not that all that warm to begin with.Were you able to post the article on "bridging the top of a 45 footer rv"? I can't get it done. I am a retired trucker and not an IT guy. It is worth posting. The key is being on a Pakway. Stay off if you have a large vehicle in NY. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
obedb Report post Posted June 26, 2017 Yes. I would rather have a side radiator for engine access. Did not do my homework before buying ours. There are however more parts that could fail on the side radiator, but if I could have a do over, I would go for it anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
southwind32v Report post Posted June 26, 2017 14 hours ago, wolfe10 said: Jim, You do NOT want the hydraulic fan on wide open all the time. You are devoting a lot of extra fuel and HP to do that. And, agree, high air flow will solve the problem. But insulation is a much better answer. CAC= Charge Air Cooler. Actually hotter than the radiator most of the time. It is the outermost "layer" in the cooling package. An air to air radiator which takes hot intake air from the turbo and cools it before sending it to the engine. No first hand experience with Dynamat. 14 hours ago, wolfe10 said: Jim, You do NOT want the hydraulic fan on wide open all the time. You are devoting a lot of extra fuel and HP to do that. And, agree, high air flow will solve the problem. But insulation is a much better answer. CAC= Charge Air Cooler. Actually hotter than the radiator most of the time. It is the outermost "layer" in the cooling package. An air to air radiator which takes hot intake air from the turbo and cools it before sending it to the engine. No first hand experience with Dynamat. Brett thank you for your time So true when the new danforth valve was installed my fuel economy went up 0.9 mpg !! I will do more research on the CAC and figure out what is under my closet that looks like a radiator overflow. Have you heard of anybody cutting ventilation slats (holes) in their engine cover to let heat out? Almost all the new rigs with side radiators have vents cut in the engine cover on the back of the coach I'm wondering if that something that I should proceed with jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted June 26, 2017 Yes, cutting vents into the back of the coach is one way. But, with the full width mud flap removed, hot air can escape "down and back" into the low pressure area behind the coach. I would try that first, as a lot less "surgery" required. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted June 26, 2017 Jim, the newer coaches have that due to the exhaust after treatment system building up so much heat. Personally I would try the flap first. I have also considered extra escape ventilation but the insulation replacement did wonders. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rsbilledwards Report post Posted June 26, 2017 I have spent a lot of time on this one as I have similar issues and have brought the temp down after shutdown 20 degrees. During movement it was never real bad but this helped there as well. First exhaust heat, I wrapped the entire exhaust pipe from the turbo back to the muffler with 2 inch wide fiberglass exhaust wrap double( half lap). The material will keep better that 85% of the heat in the pipe, enough so that you can touch the wrap without getting burned. about 50 bucks a roll and took 2.5 rolls, 5 inch exhaust CAT. Available at Sumit Racing, NAPA, major auto parts stores Second; I used 1/2, an 1 inch foil faced foam insulation from Home Depot and foil faced bubble insulation in various combinations, space determined to insulate the bottom of the floor and side walls above the engine. I also placed a laminated layer of one inch foam foil faced and a layer of the bubble on the rear wall of the closet. Made a big difference when completed. All corners were sealed with HVAC 2 inch foil tape. Combinations of the materials can achieve R12. All of this took time and not a lot of $. I am not a young guy like jleamont but older like most here Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted June 26, 2017 Bill, exhaust wrap is another great idea! That may be in my future mods for this coach. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rsbilledwards Report post Posted June 28, 2017 J I went one step further...I wrapped all the air plenums with the thought if it keeps heat in it will keep heat out... another tenth! By the way I named the Panther PORSCHE and the mud flap says so! B Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted June 28, 2017 When you headed this way with it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
