rayin Report post Posted October 5, 2017 On 10/4/2017 at 4:27 PM, bbrigham said: Can anyone tell me what the voltage should be at the thermal coupler on a norcold 4 door fridge I think your Norcold is a model 1200LRIM(ice maker model). The service manual will contain everything you need to know, it eliminates any question of accuracy or opinions. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abyrd Report post Posted October 6, 2017 Most thermocouples only produce a few millivolts, the output voltage will be proportional to the temperature. Jim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 6, 2017 bb. What engine you got? Congratulation on your "new" baby! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted October 10, 2017 Inspect around the windshield for signs of water leakage. These years have a known rust problem around the windshield frame. Some owners have had to have the glass removed and the metal frame rebuilt due to rust. So far, mine hadn't leaked until yesterday while driving in rain all the way from Pigeon Forge, TN to home in Indiana. Now I'm concerned about a rusted frame in our UF too. These MH's have a floating glass(like autos) instead of gaskets to hold the glass; water gets in and has nowhere to go, just lays in the metal frame and causes rust. This problem, and remedy, is easily found with an internet search. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kaypsmith Report post Posted October 10, 2017 If no delamination yet, that is a good thing, only thing that can be done to prevent it is to make sure that no more water gets into the sidewalls. If rubber roof, reseal all seems now, including the roof edges. If fiberglass, then I would still look at those edges and make sure there is no way for water to get into those sidewalls. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 10, 2017 RAYIN. What Kay said, goes for you also. May not be the window, could be capillary action from somewhere else! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted October 11, 2017 14 hours ago, manholt said: RAYIN. What Kay said, goes for you also. May not be the window, could be capillary action from somewhere else! Winnebago used (still may) a steel cage to protect the driver and copilot in an accident. This steel cage also holds the front glass. I hope what Kay said is happening, easier to find and repair than removing the windshields, repairing rust damage, then resetting the windshield glass, which can break during removal. Locating the water intrusion source is my project this week. If I must do a emergency temporary repair, I carry a spray can of clear Rustoleum leak sealer in the MH tool box. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted October 20, 2017 On 10/4/2017 at 4:27 PM, bbrigham said: Can anyone tell me what the voltage should be at the thermal coupler on a norcold 4 door fridge Here is the easiest way I know: How to test a Norcold Thermister. It's not voltage that matters, it is resistance. If your thermister tests bad, the best solution is to install an adjustable Norcold thermister. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted October 21, 2017 bbrigham must be busy with his new project. The sales brochure for his 2001 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom contains most of the information everyone has asked about. I somewhat doubt his ball joints require replacement yet, mine are still good at 43,xxx miles with the torn boots. I do use a waterproof spray grease on them every time we get back home. Manholt: I located my water intrusion source. It was the roof-mounted remote spotlight, the plastic mount was sun-rotted, broken, and allowing water to enter via the wiring hole. Spotlight is removed, the area is covered with Eternabond now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 21, 2017 RAYIN. Glad to hear you found it. I also, wonder if bbngham is still having a problem? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mendres Report post Posted October 21, 2017 I purchased our 2002 Ultimate Advantage 40J four years ago and it was a low mileage coach. Working with the dealer we had all oils, water, hydraulic oil changed, transmission serviced before delivery. Also purchased an Extended Warranty and that was to our advantage with repairs required. Due to the low mileage we have had engine issues with the lift pump, HWH leaks and 12 volt motor, and many small items. But overall the coach has been very comfortable to ride and live in. I would advise the OP to devote time to go over the coach from front to back, service all systems and pay close attention to the roof and all seams. Use the Dicor self leveling on all seems, wash it, and apply a good protectorant. Never use a silicone sealant on any part of the roof or around any window. Check the Winnebago web site for the list of sealants with part numbers for the 2000 year. I would wish him many happy miles in the coach. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 21, 2017 2 hours ago, mendres said: I purchased our 2002 Ultimate Advantage 40J four years ago and it was a low mileage coach. Working with the dealer we had all oils, water, hydraulic oil changed, transmission serviced before delivery. Also purchased an Extended Warranty and that was to our advantage with repairs required. Due to the low mileage we have had engine issues with the lift pump, HWH leaks and 12 volt motor, and many small items. But overall the coach has been very comfortable to ride and live in. I would advise the OP to devote time to go over the coach from front to back, service all systems and pay close attention to the roof and all seams. Use the Dicor self leveling on all seems, wash it, and apply a good protectorant. Never use a silicone sealant on any part of the roof or around any window. Check the Winnebago web site for the list of sealants with part numbers for the 2000 year. I would wish him many happy miles in the coach. Welcome to the forum, all good advise. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 22, 2017 Brett is going to delete me and put me on time out...however I must say that we are now talking to our self. I'll save Brett the time...I'm on time out ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadster27 Report post Posted October 26, 2017 On 9/14/2017 at 10:47 AM, bbrigham said: I am considering purchasing in a 01 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom on a Spartan Chassis with only 10,000 miles on it what should I be looking for and where for known issues? My 99 Tradition cost $33,000 , 2 years ago. It needed ball joints and tie rod ends at 53,000 miles because of faulty boots. Make sure you check this , they are very expensive. I did all the brakes and the front brgs as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted October 31, 2017 I received a progress report from bbrigham this morning. I made a good guess, he has been quite busy with repairs to his project MH: "I have all of the systems working. refrigerator needed board and orifice. Hot water heater needed thermostat. Window awnings needs straps. Plumbing and fridge vent. Inverter. The chassis is in garage today for oil change and check. will update later." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bbrigham Report post Posted November 13, 2017 thank you all. The slide-out topper spring is broke I tried welding it work for a few days. We're pretty much done for the winter. Thanks for all your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
