rfsod48 Report post Posted October 16, 2017 I am giving some thought to replacing my coach’s sway bar bushings while on our way to Arizona this winter. Was thinking a stop in Dallas area would be a good diversion. I have seen that there is a Freightliner service facility there and am wondering if anyone has had experience with them. Also what about campground in the area. Thanks, Roland Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 16, 2017 Roland, Replacing the bushings is VERY low tech/torque. Get the PN from your chassis maker, get the bushings, and anyone with even a pair of vice grips and crescent wrench can change the bushings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rfsod48 Report post Posted October 16, 2017 Brett, when doing this do you need to jack up the axle or support it in some way? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 16, 2017 NO. As long as the two sides are level, there is zero force on the bushings/end links. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rfsod48 Report post Posted October 16, 2017 Would it be smart to replace end links also and how do you know how tight to make things? Sorry for questions but I am not much of a mechanic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Roland, it is a easy project. As far as how tight I tried to get them so they swelled up a little (see in the pictures. You need at least 1-3 threads through the end of the nut. All you need to replace are the bushings. I did not change the big ones that hold the bushing to the frame as they were ok. I sprayed a little oil in them so they move. I might do that at some point in the future. Read what I said in the other post about the markings on the end links. http://community.fmca.com/topic/8004-sway-bar-bushings-bad/ It made a defiant improvement. Let me know if you have any questions. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Nice Link, I'll look at mine tomorrow after I thaw out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rfsod48 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Bill, I don’t have my coach at home, since ours are the same do you remember if there is a rear sway bar also? I have only looked at the front one. It seems to me that might be good to replace center bushings at the same time so you don’t have to take everything apart a second time. Thanks all for the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 The end link bushings wear MANY, MANY times as fast as the center bushings. That doesn't mean don't check them, but they are rarely the failure point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Just the front as far as I know. The big bushings are seldom a problem. I was under my coach last week and my big bushings still look good. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Bill. Don't forget the "Marine Green" grease for your rear bushings! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 11 minutes ago, manholt said: Bill. Don't forget the "Marine Green" grease for your rear bushings! Yes, on center bushings, not end link bushings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rfsod48 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Bill you mentioned that you had to thin the bushings thickness, did you just sand it off with belt sander? Looking at replacement links it looks as if there is a nut on bottom and bolt head on top, is this correct. Again thanks for all the help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 10 hours ago, rfsod48 said: Looking at replacement links it looks as if there is a nut on bottom and bolt head on top, is this correct. While I guess a bolt could be used, most use a threaded rod with nuts at both top and bottom. That is why vice grips are one of the tools I take under the coach with me-- to hold the center of the rod so that both nuts can be removed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 You guys are trying to make me think this morning. I just sanded the bushings down there is a step in one side about .300 thick. I used a 2" sanding disk in my right angle dotco. You could use a sanding disk in your drillmoter. Hold the bushings with some vicegrips or plyers. The links are threaded on each end and have a shoulder to hold the washer. Look carefully as on end is longer and should be marked. Why do you think you need replacement links? Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rfsod48 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 I don’t know that I need replacement links, just getting ahead of my self 😁 I thought the space between the bushings was a sleeve covering the threaded rod. I take it this is the rod with an area that doesn’t have threading. When doing this would it be smart to lower the coach leveling jacks or should they be retracted? Roland Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Roland, There are several designs for end links. Makes no difference if jacks are down or not, just that the coach is level side to side (so there is no pressure on the sway bar. I put jacks down just for more clearance under the coach to work. Obviously, do not go under the coach unless you have room under there if jacks/air bags failed without jack stands. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rfsod48 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Thanks for the help! I think I have my dense head around this now and I am going to local auto zone as they have bushings in stock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted October 17, 2017 Take the very best ones in to match. And, polyurethane bushings are superior to rubber ones. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
