fagnaml Report post Posted May 15, 2018 This past Saturday (May 14, 2018) and last October, I struggled mightily to remove the 1/4" NPT oil drain plug from the bottom of my Onan 7500 Quiet Diesel generator. The small hex head on the plug had been somewhat "rounded" by the previous owner or whomever changed oil before I bought the motorhome (see attached photo). Knowing I had the chance of really "mucking-up" the small 1/4" hex head on the plug (which happened), I purchased a new 1/4" NPT brass pipe plug from my local ACE Hardware store that has a larger hex head --> http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=52439446&cp=2568443.2568452.2631237.2631262.2631279.2631288 This new brass plug is now in place on my generator. The larger hex head should make it easier to remove. The OEM drain plug has considerable hard "carbon" build-up in the threads which probably contributed to making the plug difficult to remove. I presume the build-up came from carbon in the generator oil or thread dope used by the previous owner. Any thoughts / concerns from the forum about using a brass plug as the oil drain plug? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fagnaml Report post Posted May 15, 2018 The OEM plug is a 1/4" NPT plug. Here is an OEM plug from eBay --> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Onan-Genuine-Factory-RV-Generator-Oil-Drain-Plug-181-9227-HDKAJ-Spec-J-Newer/292557041724?epid=1140350417&hash=item441dc2303c:g:-zgAAOSwJ7RYWYTf&vxp=mtr The OEM plug fit nicely into a 1/4" pipe elbow at the ACE Hardware store to confirm it had pipe (not bolt) threads. Also, in my posting about the EZ Oil Drain valve, their website also shows 1/4" and 3/8" NPT pipe threading for the drain valves they manufacture for Onan generators. I don't think the new brass plug will "gall" in place as the oil temp should be ~220 F and the brass should not corrode -- Agree?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wolfe10 Report post Posted May 15, 2018 Mike, Compare brass with the oil pan metal to see if they are "galvanically close". OK if the brass is the anode, but sure don't want the pan to sacrifice itself to protect the plug: https://www.pemnet.com/design_info/galvanic-corrosion/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hermanmullins Report post Posted May 15, 2018 Just thinking. Would plumbers tape protect the threads for Galvanic Corrosion while seiling for leaks and helping when removing? Herman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fagnaml Report post Posted May 15, 2018 Herman - I had the same thought about the Teflon plumber's tape but chose not to use it. My luck is a piece of the tape would break off and plug a small oil injection port for the crank shaft and wreck the generator. My level of luck is also why I don't visit casino's...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted May 16, 2018 3 hours ago, fagnaml said: Herman - I had the same thought about the Teflon plumber's tape but chose not to use it. My luck is a piece of the tape would break off and plug a small oil injection port for the crankshaft and wreck the generator. My level of luck is also why I don't visit casino's...... I don't see a problem. Any part of the teflon tape would be trapped by the filter before it could plug a small oil injection port for the crankshaft and wreck the generator. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted May 16, 2018 Hermans idea should work as long as you know if you have Galvanic reaction or not. If you do, then make sure all parts of bolt is covered...all ! Best would be same metal as pan. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites