mwking Report post Posted October 31, 2018 Hi, With about 12,000 miles on the chassis, I've started having some problems getting the larger slide in my 'living room' (Coachmen Leprechaun 319MB) retracted, and occasionally extended. Generally, the rear drive seems to bind on something and freezes, requiring me to work it back and forth a time or two. Seems to have something to do with how level and evenly supported the chassis is, but I've not doped out exactly what makes it work or not work. I've found the Lippert/Schwintek YouTubes on lubrication and resynchronizing/retiming, I have ordered the right lube, and I'll do both of those procedures shortly. I've also learned I have not been holding the button down long enough when extending - OEM manuals & PDI were useless in this area. So questions: 1. The lube procedure didn't say anything about lubricating the tracks. I know you wouldn't want to use something gummy that would trap dirt/grit, but what about some dry Teflon lube??? 2. Anyone else had this happen? If so, what did you do about it? Thanks, Michael Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 31, 2018 Michael, welcome to the forum. Yes dry Teflon lube will work but I have found John Deere Super Lube Synthetic Dri-Film Lubricant Spray does seem to last longer and lube better. It is a dry film colloid. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwking Report post Posted November 1, 2018 Sounds like a good tip - thanks Bill. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 1, 2018 I had a slide problem on our last trip. Ended up taking a detour to Lippert factory. They recommended CRC PTFE Dry Lube. Holding the power button after extending and retraction for at least 5 minutes allows the motors to sync. When the motors are out of sync they can cause what you have described and can even be more problematic. Once the light is blinking use the power button to operate the slide in the override mode. Working the slide in and out is actually more detrimental to the system. Lippert recommends continuing in the direction of travel until the slide stops, hold the power button for a minimum of 5 seconds - longer is okay, even very long is okay. They also do not support lubricating the tracks, just the motor gears. There is a video out there using just a spray can of lube and the extended sprayer that comes with the can. Pull the flap back and lube top and bottom of motor. Do that outside and inside. That is the only lube necessary. If the slide binds find the controller push the controller button next to the led 7 times and on the 7th hold it in until the LED blinks. This is the electronic override. In this mode ALL safety systems for the slide are turned off. Letting the slide come in or out in this mode can really damage something if the slide motor is bad and only one side comes in. Watch very carefully that the slide is not coming in more than an inch or so on one side or the other. If it does, stop using that mode and do a manual retract. That requires removing the motor from the gear sprocket(s) and pushing the slide in manually and then either put the motor back on the gear sprocket or use the locking rods to hold the slide in for travel. I had to have a motor replaced. After having that done I operated the slides as I described and when the slide comes in and I hold the button down I can still hear the one motor turning for a few seconds synchronizing. No problems since. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 1, 2018 It's important that you are on your Jacks and level, when operating your slide out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mailman Report post Posted November 1, 2018 Carl, Wayne, Bill. Michael This was a great Article Topic. Motor Homes , Travel Trailers, 5TH Wheels: They or a lot of them have sides. Carl, not all of them have jacks. Using jacks or not , Should everyone that have slides must have jacks? I think your comment is right on. If you have jacks they should be used. SO, if you have slides should you have jacks? Tim the Mailman Winnebago Cambria Class C Three slides. 2014 E-450 Ford Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 1, 2018 I would read the owner's manual. I don't know of a manufacturer that doesn't say you should be level or nearly level before operating slides. The same with the absorption refrigerator. Jacks just make it easier. You can do the same with leveling blocks or boards but it may take longer. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 2, 2018 mailman. I have Lippert Power Gear. Jacks and or Air leveling...I prefer air leveling, but Lippert say's I should use Jacks, then let my 4 slides come out. Then I can retract Jacks and use air. Reverse for bringing slides in! STUPID! I have used, just the air and it works, but it's smoother when on Jacks! My comment was for, if you have Jacks only! I'm not familiar enough with 5'ers or pull behinds, in regards to slides, to comment. Back in the late 60's, 70's and early 80's, I did the boards & we had no slide outs. In 1983, I put HWH on a non slide Apollo, 33'...Wow, what a difference that made! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 2, 2018 Michael, I read your OP again. My manual for the Schwintek/PowerGear slideout systems says to not lubricate the tracks, just the motor gear. I think you could verify that by calling Lippert and talking to their tech support. As for your slide stalling on one side, well to me that is what my problem was and I ended up having to replace the motor. It is a possibility that the controller is failing or intermittent. Seems like you have done some research, as I did, and learned a bunch about that system. I ended up cancelling some of my travels this past summer and went to LCI in Goshen, IN. Found them to be very accommodating and they troubleshot and replaced the motor in about 1 hour. Here is a video of lubricating a Schwintek slideout: Lubricating Schwintek Slideout Notice no mention of lubricating the rack. I purchased my CRC PTFE from Amazon. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 2, 2018 I am kind of embarrassed for all the techs that do a good job after watching the guy in the video. "just pull back the seal and spray and hope you got the lube where it was needed." I would recommend using an inspection mirror to see where you are spraying. The spray I recommend also works great on the pivot points on the towbar and the pins or any wear point. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 2, 2018 Well, at least it is a Lippert Tech in the video. Those guys are good, right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 2, 2018 Wayne, sorry it is just my several years in aircraft maintenance and manufacturing coming out. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 3, 2018 Is it called OCD? 👺 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 3, 2018 Acronyms is good, if everyone on this Forum understand it. We are not on General Discussion or PM! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 3, 2018 That is what internet search is for, but just for you,😀, Obsessive-compulsive disorder. Bill probably just walks around with a mechanics mirror he is so used to using one. 🤡 Michael, What's the status on the slide. Anyone figure out the problem yet? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted November 3, 2018 18 minutes ago, wayne77590 said: That is what internet search is for, but just for you,😀, Obsessive-compulsive disorder. Bill probably just walks around with a mechanics mirror he is so used to using one. 🤡 Never just one and a good flashlight. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 3, 2018 Do you also have the magnetic pick-up device? I never could figure out that device. When I dropped something down beside steel walls the magnet would stick to the wall. Never could get to the dropped piece. Next was the push the end of the device and a set of prongs opened up to grab what you dropped. Was great for a little nut or washer, if you could see it, but for a wrench the claw just wouldn't hold. String tied around a wrench was a saver. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mwking Report post Posted November 3, 2018 I got the recommended spray (thank you Amazon) have done the lubrication process, just like the guy in the video described. Also did the retiming process. Could be the placebo effects, or inhaling a bit of that lube spray working on my brain, but seems like the slides go in and out more smoothly now. Part of my problem was probably the facacta space I was in when this started - nice county park near Phoneix, but the space had a huge slope back to front, more than my jack system could deal with. Thanks everyone! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 3, 2018 Glad to hear that's over with! Another problem solved, and happy customer! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wayne77590 Report post Posted November 3, 2018 Those Schwintek systems sure like to be level! I'm always concerned i my driveway since it is between 1 and 2 degrees of back to front slope. That is after it is run up on 3 2x10's covered with 3/8" treated plywood. I'm going to make some new ones with thicker plywood that should give me the levelness I want. The plywood not only gives it the added lift but keeps the 2x10's from splitting and falling apart. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted November 3, 2018 Ahh, body building! Too much for front jacks after you let all the air out? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
