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huffypuff

Inverter Charger Now Working!

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Yes, even a muffin an inlet from clean area and exhaust and muffin fan will be a real advantage when bulk charging or inverting.  Both produce a lot of heat. I would probably just put it on a manual switch, but you could wire it through a temperature sensitive switch.

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42 minutes ago, RayIN said:

Now you have me concerned. My XantreX RS2000 is in a separate compartment, isolated from everything else-no vent. Below that is the battery compartment, which does have a vent on the back wall. The batteries will get dirty from road dust, the inverter does not get dirty due to the "D" seals around both compartments. It's been that way since April 2000, so it must not overheat the inverter.

Guess I'll put a remote thermometer in with the inverter for a while to check.

Your remote should have battery temperatures and inverter charger temperatures read out.  On my RC 50 it's under the tech menu.   

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I have the same inverter/charger that in mounted in same compartment on my 04 Holiday Rambler Endeavor PDQ, however my compartment has no form on ventilation. I up graded circuit board in the inverter/charger and the software in the remote unit several years ago when I installed the battery charge level option. When I changed the circuit board I didn't find an signs of dust accumulation in on the circuit board or in the unit,   I have a residential refrigerator and I run the inverter continuously when driving down the road unless it is so warm that it requires the roof top ACs.

Not sure if I'm running on borrower time, but so far so good.

Jim 

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21 hours ago, F433921 said:

I have the same inverter/charger that in mounted in same compartment on my 04 Holiday Rambler Endeavor PDQ, however my compartment has no form on ventilation. I up graded circuit board in the inverter/charger and the software in the remote unit several years ago when I installed the battery charge level option. When I changed the circuit board I didn't find an signs of dust accumulation in on the circuit board or in the unit,   I have a residential refrigerator and I run the inverter continuously when driving down the road unless it is so warm that it requires the roof top ACs.

Not sure if I'm running on borrower time, but so far so good.

Jim 

If you are using the inverter You need a vent to let the heat out and even better to have a fan blowing to the outside.  The way I'm cutting the dirt is using a A/C foam filter on the air inlet of the compartment.  My new inverter charger is quite up to date and I have a ARC 50 remote control  on the way.  I have to find the wiring for the auto start module before I think about hooking it up.  

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1 hour ago, huffypuff said:

If you are using the inverter You need a vent to let the heat out and even better to have a fan blowing to the outside.  The way I'm cutting the dirt is using a A/C foam filter on the air inlet of the compartment.  My new inverter charger is quite up to date and I have a ARC 50 remote control  on the way.  I have to find the wiring for the auto start module before I think about hooking it up.  

Huff,

The only load that I put on the inverter is my residential refrigerator, the maximum  DC current draw from the battery bank that I have observed is 10 amps. I'm have a remote thermometer with MAX and  MIN temperatures that I'm going to install to determine what temperature are in the compartment.

I need to review my Magnum Manual to determine what their ambient operating temperature range is.

  

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25 minutes ago, F433921 said:

Huff,

The only load that I put on the inverter is my residential refrigerator, the maximum  DC current draw from the battery bank that I have observed is 10 amps. I'm have a remote thermometer with MAX and  MIN temperatures that I'm going to install to determine what temperature are in the compartment.

I need to review my Magnum Manual to determine what their ambient operating temperature range is.

  

You can get the temperature right from your RC 50.  Press tech button, press rotating dial, rotate dial to see battery and two internal temperature.  

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I found a wiring harness in the same compartment as the inverter charger that should be for the auto generator start.  I then look up on the net and found a diagram on how to wire it to the module by color codes for my coach and the quiet diesel.  It also show how to set the dip switches.  I'm going to receive the ARC 50 tomorrow and right after I install it this weekend  I will get out my power probe and test that harness connector.  

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Got the remote today and installed easy as used same wiring and screws to mount.  

Below picture is the difference of the old and new remote control.   

Remote_Diff.thumb.jpg.b0b30968d2ead7efb2572b8a083a3fd4.jpg

This in the new remote installed and when it booted up I had to set the clock in it for the auto start and select temperature display in C or F.  

remote_installed.thumb.jpg.6badcbfe2a7d3710f84e25f463ab33bb.jpg

 

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Nice!

Were you able to test the AGS functionality? Wondering what’s needed so it will automatically start the generator when you call for air conditioning or were you able to locate that wire?

I have always wanted that to work with our AGS but haven’t given it much thought or invested enough time to figure it out.

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1 hour ago, jleamont said:

Nice!

Were you able to test the AGS functionality? Wondering what’s needed so it will automatically start the generator when you call for air conditioning or were you able to locate that wire?

I have always wanted that to work with our AGS but haven’t given it much thought or invested enough time to figure it out.

The first step is to put that new remote in. Done  The next step is to install a AGS controller. I have to order it.   It will need to be wired into the harness I found in the inverter charger compartment.  I tested the harness today and it tested good as per the wire diagram and color codes.  Six wires connect from the coach harness to the AGS controller, A 4 pin wire connects from the AGS controller to the inverter charger.  Another 4 pin wire connects to the temperature sensor.  I'm not sure if I need to buy that separate.  Once install it can be program to start if it gets too hot.  The a/c or heat pump need to be already setup when the generator starts and give it 120 volts.  

Magnum Energy Automatic Generator Start Controller - Network Version

The ME-AGS-N is the 'network' version of Magnum Energy's Automatic Generator Start (AGS) controllers. The version is setup and operated via a Magnum Energy Inverter and ME-RC or ME-ARC remote panel.

When using the ME-RC Remote, the ME-AGS-N has basic adjustments starting on battery voltage or temperature.

When using the ME-ARC remote, the ME-AGS-N has advanced start and stop settings based on: Time of day, battery State of Charge, battery voltage, high temperature, or inverter load amps. Also includes the ability to manually turn the generator ON and off, generator exercise, warmup and cooldown.

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I got the auto generator start module network version, install it and program it at the control panel.  It starts the generator as programed but the generator don't shut off as supposed to when commands by the program.  I recheck the wiring harness at the module for start stop and common and they work fine there.  I set the dip switches in the module for Quiet Diesel Generator.  Does anybody knows what could of went wrong?  New control panel, new inverter charger, new AGS module.   The following is the latest on the install upgrade.  

AGS kit comes with module, network cable, 50 foot temperature  wire, warning sticker and owners manual.  

AGSTG.thumb.jpg.fd0c372a95dbf29d15a58303f5b4b7c8.jpg

This is the wiring harness from the coach connection.  Blue is hour meter, orange is 12 volts, white is ground, red is gen start, brown is gen common, green is gen stop.  

AGSWIRING.thumb.jpg.8837d0fa1069490f268a58dc567c821a.jpg

On the lower left is the dip switch and they are all set to off for Quiet Diesel generator.  The lower right is the setting for battery which is 12 volts in this case.  

AGSSETTING.thumb.jpg.a02778fa49b68e930438b04f905be9f9.jpg

This is the AGS module mounted with network and temperature cable plugged in.  When the program is running the status light is green and goes out when program has ended.  The generator not supposed to be running at that point unless manually started.  This is the problem I have is the generator don't turn off at end of program and has to be manually turn off.  

AGSMOUNTED.thumb.jpg.f5c524040d5a888f66d66a3dd18d5b43.jpg

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Ray, Does The generator shut down with the  OEM switch OK ? after it has been started with the AGS?

I wounder if the 40 ft. remote cable is picking up some interference from somewhere ?

Think magnum uses remote cables wired like regular old phone cables,(Unlike Xantrex) might try a very short one , it looks like the 40 ft. one is coiled up right under the AGS  Mod and right on top of the inverter. That much wire - that close to the inverter might be the problem.

One wire in the picture looks like it might be a sensor of some kind ?

Rich. 

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1 hour ago, DickandLois said:

Ray, Does The generator shut down with the  OEM switch OK ? after it has been started with the AGS?

I wounder if the 40 ft. remote cable is picking up some interference from somewhere ?

Think magnum uses remote cables wired like regular old phone cables,(Unlike Xantrex) might try a very short one , it looks like the 40 ft. one is coiled up right under the AGS  Mod and right on top of the inverter. That much wire - that close to the inverter might be the problem.

One wire in the picture looks like it might be a sensor of some kind ?

Rich. 

The wiring for the generator switches is three wires with a added wire for hour meter or light.  The three wires are common ground, start and stop.  The two switches inside works okay and you can start and stop the generator by removing the three wires in the inverter compartment by touching together the start or stop wire to common ground.   That tested good before installing the module and well as the module ground, 12 volts and hour meter 12 volts.  

The short network cable coming from the module plugs into the back of the inverter to receive program setting.  The longer remote cable is a temperature sensor to be run somewhere inside the coach.  It sense  temperature to start generator when the temperature rise over a set temperaturer.  I set the temperature to 75 and ran the end of that wire outside and it works as program when the temperature went above 75.  The generator didn't shut down after the temperature dropped to 66  well below the set point.  In the field I will be coming home to chilly dogs (pun intended).  Not really for I will have the AC set higher but you should get the point.  

The problem is that when the module shuts off, it fails to shut down the generator first.  I have it wired according to instruction to the module.  

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Ray, is the jumper for the system configured for the GD series and or for the Gas generator setup?

Picking at straws at this point !

AGS Wall Switch Installation (option)

1. Locate a convenient spot to mount the AGS Switch. The side wall of the coachs refrigerator enclosure is the most common (and recommended). The switch should be mounted midway up the wall for best results. NOTE: The thermistor that is used to sense the coachs interior temperature is located on the back of the AGS Switch. It is vital that the switch be placed where interior room temperatures can be accurately sensed by the thermistor. Keep the sensor away from heating and air conditioning ducts, window drafts and avoid mounting it on the coachs exterior walls. Interior walls and cabinets provide much more stable temperatures and also make it easier to route the switchs cable to the AGS Controller.

Rich.

Ray, There is no information or Fault code listed in the trouble shooting chart for AGS mod not stopping the Generators? A number of LED fault codes for other issues. 

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Huff,

Is there any chance that the stop command from the AGS is not a long enough duration to shut the generator down.

Jim

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10 minutes ago, F433921 said:

Huff,

Is there any chance that the stop command from the AGS is not a long enough duration to shut the generator down.

Jim

Good thought Jim, but Ray did not mention the Generator attempted to stop or sputtered. A short stop command should have some affect.

Rich.

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Thanks for the replies.  I called tech support today and we ran some test over the phone.  During one test when the module timed off and the generator failed to stop the tech had me jump terminal 6 & 7 and the generator shut off right away.  He determining that number 2 relay in the module is not working and I need to replace that new module.  I filled a RMA form out and email it back to them.  I hope this fixes it as it is frustrating to  have something new fail to work.  I hope I can get this feature to work like it should as it will run the generator when it really needs to, not when I think it need to.  May save some diesel fuel in the long run.  

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Warranty is still hard and taking long.  Called Everett, WA factory and after the diagnosis of bad unit the agreed to replace it.  Took three days to ship not local but from Minnesota and won't get until the middle of next week.  At that time I'm supposed to ship the other new unit back to them.  

While I'm waiting for all this they are riding a hold on my credit card for $339, way more than I paid for it in the first place.  So at this point I'm out of $537 for a auto generator start that don't work.  

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Got the replacement Auto Generator Start module today.  I replace the module out of the kit only and that fixed the problem I was having with the auto start to shut down when finished.  I put it through it's initial test and then the active test.   It auto start by temperature and shut down when temperature dropped.  It's on quiet time now and can auto start again if the batteries are low enough at 7:00  am.  I will be testing for a few days to make sure no problems.  Right now I only have a 12 fan running on low so may come on tomorrow again for temperature.  Then all I have to do is find a good place to run the temperature wire inside the coach.  I'm thinking the galley would be best.  If anybody got experience running that wire, let me know.   

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Puff, glad to hear! I am sure that took a load off of your shoulders. 

Running the wire, I know on our construction it wouldn't be a simple task. Perhaps a small wire fish tape and see if it will go down the inside of wall to the basement ceiling, might take a helper to see if they can hear it knocking on the basement ceiling.

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5 hours ago, jleamont said:

Puff, glad to hear! I am sure that took a load off of your shoulders. 

Running the wire, I know on our construction it wouldn't be a simple task. Perhaps a small wire fish tape and see if it will go down the inside of wall to the basement ceiling, might take a helper to see if they can hear it knocking on the basement ceiling.

It's going to take some scoping out as I was thinking going out the wall where factory gen start wiring comes in the compartment, up the frame to area the plumbing goes through the floor.  There is a double wall with access panel between the galley and shower so I can attach on that wall and drop the extra in the  cavity between the walls.  Well that is the plan if I can get to it.   

9 hours ago, wolfe10 said:

Done!

Thanks

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