Oil Change For Diesel Motorhome

[gmarsha2]

I have an 04 Dutchstar with a cat 3126 engine producing 330 hp. My oil capacity is 20 qts. and I have added a Lucas Oil Additive with every oil change for the last 5 years. I also use Rotella 15-40 for my oil change. Not sure if it just a good feeling or if it actually improves performance, the coach seems to be running better every time out. The ratio I use is 4 qts Lucas to 16 qts Rotella or 20% per fill. I currently have 55,000 miles on the coach and my gas mileage is 9.5 miles per Imperial Gallon based on a running record over the last 25,000 miles. I also pull a 2010 Ford Edge as my toad. Just food for thought........

[wildebill308]

Welcome to the forum gmarsha2.

You haven't filled out your location so I have to guess that you are in Canada. If you drive south of the border you might be shocked at how your mileage drops. We had friends who couldn't believe how good mileage they got when traveling in Canada. I hated to tell them the difference between a Imperial gal and a US gal. That 9.5 would be in the range of 7.910

Bill

[rayherron]

Gary,

Thanks for posting the answer. I was looking up just the regular/original Pennzoil. Obliviously, they make quite a few different oils meeting many different specs.

Brett

I believe you will find that all the major brands make an oil that is suitable for Diesel engines, why would you assume that Pennzoil doesn't, without first checking?

[rayherron]

And Caterpillar says NOT to fill the filter. The few seconds it takes to fill the filter is less critical than the chance that there will be a small contaminant in the oil (yes, even in new oil).

Cummins says the same thing, it is legalese to avoid possible claims.

[rayherron]

I see I'm late to the party, but maybe somebody's still checking this thread? To be safe, I also joined Brett's Diesel Club.

Anyway, I've got an 8V-71 in my converted bus. It had fresh oil approximately 3000 miles ago but, sadly, has not been driven - or even started - for more than a year. The old oil still looks, feels and smells fine but should obviously be changed. Problem: The bus is parked in an extremely confined space, and needs to be moved to change the oil - or at least started, aired up and blocked.

My Question: Am I safe to fire it up the way it is, or should I add some sort of oil treatment? Should I pour some oil into the filler to lubricate the upper engine components? Or, in an abundance of caution, should I have it towed to a better work area (or repair facility)?

It's a beautiful engine (recent out-of frame rebuild by Harper Diesel) and I don't want to risk messing it up. I've never had to add more than two liters between changes... and that was after some tough mountain driving. Unlike most diesels, the oil remains clear hundreds of miles after a change.

Any advice appreciated.

Tony

Tony, as long as you have oil in the oil pan and your oil pump is moving it then there should be no problem starting and moving it to a suitable location. If you are overly concerned about the condition of the oil then draw a sample and have it analyzed, odds are you will find that it is as good as it was a year ago.

[wolfe10]

I believe you will find that all the major brands make an oil that is suitable for Diesel engines, why would you assume that Pennzoil doesn't, without first checking?

Ray,

I believe you and I are saying the same thing, just saying it differently.

I said, "....Pennzoil. Obliviously, they make quite a few different oils meeting many different specs."

You said, "...I believe you will find that all the major brands make an oil that is suitable for Diesel engines,"

Let's agree to agree!

BTW, the same applies to coolants. Many companies such as Prestone make at least three different coolants, two of which are approved for HD diesels. They also make one that IS NOT (the regular high silicate coolant for automobiles that you will find in most Walmarts, etc).

[RVerOnTheMove]

Come on kids, let's all play nice.

[wildebill308]

Going back to the OPs question I think Brett has the best answer. I certainly would like to see some oil pressure before firing off an engine that has set for a year. Like I posted earlier I would run a rich mix of biocide and run the generator assuming it is a diesel per the manufacturer's recommended exercise program. Question of filling the oil filter you don't have to worry about contaminates in the new oil if you fill the filter properly the oil will pass through the filter medium just like it came from the pan. I will continue to fill my filter before installing.

Bill

[jleamont]

I use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40 for my customers (fire apparatus and ambulances) If its a new Ford Diesel (6.7L Power Stroke) Mobil 5W40 Full synthetic Diesel oil.

My Cummins ISL Mobile Delvac Elite 15w40 Synthetic blended. I am too cheap to pay for 34 quarts of full synthetic otherwise I would.

Inline 5 cyl Sprinter Mobile 5w40 Full synthetic Diesel oil

V6 Sprinter Quaker state 5w30 full synthetic european diesel blend.

Strongly recommend oil sampling I could not tell you how many times the report saved an engine that no one realized had a problem.

No one mentioned the filter?

I use Fleetguard on my Motorhome, Ford or Racor on Ford products (Racor is the OEM manufacture for Ford)

I prefer the engine manufacturer's recommended filter brand, I have see the aftermarket versions cause engine problems especially if it requires an adapter to fit, you should not use it.

I have cut different manufacture filters open and sometimes what's inside is an eye opener.