Replacing tire valves?

[tireman9]

Quick YouTube on tire valves since you didn't hear from me in Tuscon.

 

OOPS

First post had the wrong link

 

 

Edited April 25, 2020 by tireman9
wrong link corrected

[rayin]

Good video Roger, thanks. You talked about keeping tires out of standing water;  constant contact with water will, IMO, cause steel belts to corrode, which in turn is likely to cause tire failure in the future. This is especially true when an object has penetrated the tread to the belts.

Is my thinking correct on this?

[manholt]

Ray, "constant standing water?"  Yea, probably after a couple of years in Panama! 😂

[tireman9]

12 hours ago, RayIN said:

Good video Roger, thanks. You talked about keeping tires out of standing water;  constant contact with water will, IMO, cause steel belts to corrode, which in turn is likely to cause tire failure in the future. This is especially true when an object has penetrated the tread to the belts.

Is my thinking correct on this?

Ray, Next weeks post on my blog is specifically on "Moisture" and why it is bad for today's Steel Belted Radials.

 

4 hours ago, manholt said:

Ray, "constant standing water?"  Yea, probably after a couple of years in Panama! 😂

Manholt, I have seen moisture damage to a tire steel belt/rubber matrix in as little as 3 months in some circumstances. May be extreme example but it can happen.

[manholt]

What circumstances?   

I'm sure that if a newbie sees this post would like to know.

[rayin]

If I may, Carl a nail, screw, etc that penetrates the steel belts, then comes out, but does not pierce the air bladder/lining of the tire and cause an air leak, allows water into the bare steel strands and cause corrosion/rust, which weakens the belts. It cannot be detected until one experiences a tire failure.

Roger, correct me if that is wrong.

[hermanmullins]

Ray, I had a tire company tell me the reason that they do not just repair a tire with an inside patch is for the same reason. They put in a plug with rubber cement. Their thinking, and I agree, is that the inside patch works for the leak but the plug works for both the leak and stops possible water penetration that can cause steel belt failure.

Herman

[manholt]

Under that scenario I agree.  However, that's not how it was stated.  

[rayin]

6 hours ago, hermanmullins said:

Ray, I had a tire company tell me the reason that they do not just repair a tire with an inside patch is for the same reason. They put in a plug with rubber cement. Their thinking, and I agree, is that the inside patch works for the leak but the plug works for both the leak and stops possible water penetration that can cause steel belt failure.

Herman

Tire "rubber" is porous, that's why there is an air-tight liner inside every tire. Perhaps this is a poor analogy,  but consider how a termite can get through a concrete block, then think of water and outer tire material. Sorry, this is the limit of my knowledge of pneumatic tires.

 Herman, It's called a plug patch, it is the only approved repair for truck tires now. Any tire that has been temporarily "plugged" with the stuff that looks like rope, must forever carry a reduced load capacity.(again to the best of my limited knowledge) Only this is a permanent repair:

We remember tire boot patches for sidewall repair from decades ago, today they are only for non-automotive tires, like farm equipment, bicycles; ie: tires with tubes.

[jleamont]

Couple items not mentioned;

• "Professional tire shops" will make mistakes, if you have wheels 19.5" and up you require the metal type valve stem. YES I have had "professional tire shops" install all rubber automobile valve stems in truck wheels. FYI those automobile type are PSI rated (usually MAX is around 65 PSI), and 19.5 and up exceed the MAX pressure rating on those valve stems which is very dangerous. 
• There also is a rubber "high pressure" valve stem, it looks sightly different from the one in Rogers hand, those are for an application where 80 PSI is the max rating. You would typically find these on a 16" wheel (class C or 1 ton pickup). This type of valve stem is identifiable by the brass portion is showing above the rubber base (photo'd below). I cannot count how many times I have seen these in the wrong application with well over 100 PSI in a stem rated at 80 PSI.
• If you use TPMS, you will want to have your rubber stems replaced with the metal type. The rubber type stem (high pressure or not) does not like the weight of the sensor whipping around while driving down the road, it will cause premature valve stem failure. 

 

 

[manholt]

I was wondering who would notice that..Too many 22.5 owners, would get the wrong info from that Video and that could become a major disaster! 

[tireman9]

On 4/25/2020 at 11:25 PM, RayIN said:

If I may, Carl a nail, screw, etc that penetrates the steel belts, then comes out, but does not pierce the air bladder/lining of the tire and cause an air leak, allows water into the bare steel strands and cause corrosion/rust, which weakens the belts. It cannot be detected until one experiences a tire failure.

Roger, correct me if that is wrong.

Ray you are correct.  I even have a picture of rusted steel belt in my Advanced Tire Seminar.

[tireman9]

On 4/28/2020 at 7:11 AM, jleamont said:

Couple items not mentioned;

• "Professional tire shops" will make mistakes, if you have wheels 19.5" and up you require the metal type valve stem. YES I have had "professional tire shops" install all rubber automobile valve stems in truck wheels. FYI those automobile type are PSI rated (usually MAX is around 65 PSI), and 19.5 and up exceed the MAX pressure rating on those valve stems which is very dangerous. 
• There also is a rubber "high pressure" valve stem, it looks sightly different from the one in Rogers hand, those are for an application where 80 PSI is the max rating. You would typically find these on a 16" wheel (class C or 1 ton pickup). This type of valve stem is identifiable by the brass portion is showing above the rubber base (photo'd below). I cannot count how many times I have seen these in the wrong application with well over 100 PSI in a stem rated at 80 PSI.
• If you use TPMS, you will want to have your rubber stems replaced with the metal type. The rubber type stem (high pressure or not) does not like the weight of the sensor whipping around while driving down the road, it will cause premature valve stem failure. 

 

 

Yes, Some assume that this type of valve is appropriate for use with TPMS but I have a picture of one of these that failed due to the weight of the external sensor (planned for a future blog post).  For any motor vehicle application other than standard automotive I recommend a bolt in metal valve. Since 2002 motor vehicles with GVWR less than 10,000 # are suppose to have a Low Pressure warning system. Most of these are "Direct" systems that measure the tire pressure. The "valve" is usually part of that system so the old type of standard "Snap-In" Like TR413 as seen in THIS blog post are becoming a thing of the past.

This leaves some 3/4 ton and 1 ton pickups as the main market for these "high pressure" TR600HP valves as the low cost substitute.

[Alliguru]

I have a 5th wheel and a 2022 GMC 3500 as tow vehicle and the truck came with 4 GMC tire pressure monitors for trailer use (sensor shown below). I took the Rv to a Rv tire repair shop and they said the GMC tpms valves are the incorrect diameter (11.5 mm / TR 11) and the stems in the 5th wheel Cooper wheels are 16mm (TR 15) diameter. I called gmc and they couldn’t find a 16mm stem tpms kit. I have searched online and there are 11.5 mm to 16mm grommets (nylon) that seem to be aimed at bicycle industry. Not sure what my solution is if I want to add tpms to my 5th wheel. Any thoughts?  

[tireman9]

2 hours ago, Alliguru said:

I have a 5th wheel and a 2022 GMC 3500 as tow vehicle and the truck came with 4 GMC tire pressure monitors for trailer use (sensor shown below). I took the Rv to a Rv tire repair shop and they said the GMC tpms valves are the incorrect diameter (11.5 mm / TR 11) and the stems in the 5th wheel Cooper wheels are 16mm (TR 15) diameter. I called gmc and they couldn’t find a 16mm stem tpms kit. I have searched online and there are 11.5 mm to 16mm grommets (nylon) that seem to be aimed at bicycle industry. Not sure what my solution is if I want to add tpms to my 5th wheel. Any thoughts?  

There are only 2 hole diameters for the Automotive market. 0.445  and 0,618  I haven't seen that exact valve but many times the metal threads are the smaller standard and metal valves are sold with 2 different rubber grommets One to fit the .445 hole and one to fit the .618.  Without seeing your TPM with the shoulder nut off the stem I can't be 100% certain. You can email me directly and we can work out a "Fix"  tireman9@gmail.com      I will post the answer here later

[rayin]

This is a valve stem to fit both rim hole sizes. The adapter grommet is atop the stem resting on the retaining nut. It replaces the smaller grommet shown assembled. 

Amazon.com: CKAuto 4 Pieces TR416 Metal Valve Stems Outer Mount Fits .453" & .625" Rim Holes Long 1 1/2", Silver : Automotive

Then there is the old-style retainer for.812 diameter truck rim holes and farm tractor rear tires :HALTEC Valve System: 0.812 in Rim Hole Size, 3/4 in Lg, 11/16"-16 Thread Size, For Truck Tires, Brass - 48WC40|H-41 - Grainger

 

Edited October 31, 2022 by rayin

[tireman9]

Alliguru   OK to be clear the hole in your wheel is larger than 0.42 and is closer 0.52 (there are only 2 sizes in that range and we don't need to measure to 0.001".

 

Your picture was good.  Well lit and nice focus

  I added the measuring point on the grommet to your picture so we are both talking about the same spot.

 

NAPA has what you need for $6.  Part #: NTH 90431

 I would not use the Nylon adapters as you need the softer rubber grommets that will adapt to the small variations in hole size and seal against the stem threads when you tighten the nuts,

 

FYI  I have a couple of posts on my RV Tire Safety blog with more details.

https://www.rvtiresafety.net/2013/01/what-valve-should-you-use.html

https://www.rvtiresafety.net/2017/07/care-and-feeding-of-your-valve-stems.html

 

The aluminum nuts on your TPMS have a spec of 62 In-Lb     NOT FT-LB so "snug with a small wrench should do it.

Due to the tendency of the aluminum nuts to corrode, I recommend a small dab of Never-Seize on the aluminum threads

Your GMC dealer can confirm the torque specs for aluminum TPMS but here is a chart,

https://shop.myerstiresupply.com/ERP2Web49/documents/pdf/DVTDynamicTPMSAppGuide2016.pdf