Check engine light, ABS, engine turned off

[beaver07]

We have a Beaver Contessa, 2007, CAT C9,

need help solving a electrical problem.  As we are driving down the road, check engine  light,  ABS light comes on flashing, sometimes goes off and sometime the engine dies. 

[wolfe10]

beaver07,

Welcome to the FMCA Forum.

With all those electric issues occurring at the same time, I would sure check that all onncetions at the batteries are clean and tight.  Check chassis ground as well.

What did the dash voltage read when this event happened?

[beaver07]

I really wasn’t looking at the dash voltage when all of this occurred. We were losing power and the engine just shut down. We were able to get to the side of the road. We have had the coach in the shop twice for this same problem. They say it is a relay and luckily we purchased another one . The shop placed a new one in and now it is happening again. Do you think it could be a ground

[wolfe10]

Kind of hard to diagnose over the internet, but with virtually any MAJOR electrical issue involving multiple systems, checking all major connections is one of the first.

What relay was replaced? Ignition solenoid?

[beaver07]

We’re not sure. It’s by the Big Boy Relay, in the same compartment. We are new to this motorhome. We bought it used, 22,000 miles on it. We had a 35 ft Teton for years and knew it inside and out. So we’re struggling with this problem.  You would think that both shops (In different states) would have started with all the connections.   However, we will look at all major connections (and purchase another relay to have an extra one) until we find the issue. Thank you for your help

[rfsod48]

I had a similar problem and found it to be caused by a small wire connected to battery, the covering had worn thru and it caused a short. 

[huffypuff]

Check your chassis battery voltage  and see if they are low. 

[wolfe10]

1 minute ago, huffypuff said:

Check your chassis battery voltage  and see if they are low. 

And, if low while driving (low being below 13.0 VDC) figure out WHY.

[kaypsmith]

I had a similar problem several years ago, turned out to be a ring tip connector that had managed for the wire to be broken where the wire was crimped to the ring tip. This wire was the wire connected to the fuse to the ECM. It would crank and run for a while then vibration would cause the wire to separate. This same thing can happen on a ground connector as well as a hot wire. If possible to pull an engine code, that will help pinpoint where to look.

[rayin]

For information purposes; several years ago I stopped at a rest area for lunch.  When I started the engine the transmission lights blinked, when I pushed the Drive button the engine stopped. That happened 3X in a  row, then -nothing worked, no dash lights, no transmission button lights, ignition key dead.

I searched for blown fuses, battery cable loose; nope nothing. I called Good Sam ERS, they sent a truck repair mobile unit to me in about 2 hours.(I was that far from Nashville) He asked me to walk him through the problem and what i had inspected, which I did. He began searching, 45 minutes later he discovered a terminal on the firewall in front of the driver. The 3, 12V cables were all live, but when he shook each one he found one very loose, the nut was about to fall off the terminal bolt. He tightened the nut and had me try to start the engine. That terminal block powered the entire cockpit electronics.

As soon as I turned on the key I knew he solved the problem, all lights that should illuminate did, the engine started, and when I pressed the D button the transmission went into drive and engine stayed running.

I tipped the man $50 for the 1½ hrs. he was on-site. Total bill from truck repair shop was $3xx.00. (He appreciated the cold beer I offered him when we had the problem fixed-it was a hot day)

I apologize for the rambling, but useless information is something one can eliminate.