LOW VOLTAGE LIPPERT LEVELING / BREAKER?

[eric@babin.com]

2014 Itasca Ellipse 42QD 

I got a "low voltage" screen and alarm when retracting jacks today.

Jacks partially up now.  Can't get "low voltage" fault to clear.

I have tried with engine running, in park, and neutral. (as always)

Voltage at coach panel shows 14.0 volts on both chasis and engine batteries.

I've tried powering everything down and back up. (chassis and house batteries off, then back on)

I've tried unplugging lippert panel and back in.

Still getting low voltage.

I checked 15A inline fuse near pump.  It is fine.

I can't find any other fuse or breaker.  I've looked at breaker and fuse panels under drivers window.  I've looked at 12v breakers under bed and near chassis batteries.  

Where the heck are the fuses / and or breaker(s) for the lippert leveling on a 2014 Itasca Ellipse (Winnebago Tour).

I have found the control box which is attached to ceiling of compartment behind driver's door under a rounded box.  But can't see any reset there?

 

UPDATE: FIXED:

Could not find the high amp fuse so I called in the pros. 

I gave Ewing Mobile RV Repair in Foley Alabama a call (251-207-5922).

I didn't tell him anything I had come up with since there was a good chance I was way off base.

He gave Lippert a call, checked some voltages and came to the same thing I came to... must be a fuse... but where is it?

He found it.   The fuse is pictured below.  Strangely enough... the fuse didn't "look" burnt.... but it was. He got a new one at a local auto parts store.

Replaced it (which was not easy because of the location / see pic)  To help with the location... it was in the driver's side rear compartment, (same as chassis batteries) under the push button breakers, behind 2 removable panels.

Total cost: 2 hours labor + service call + parts: $268.50

 

 

Edited January 19, 2022 by eric@babin.com

[hermanmullins]

Don't know if it helps, but in our Monaco there is a fuse panel in a cabinet in the rear next to the closet. Strange place for one.

You have already done one of the things I would have suggested, disconnect the batteries (all of them house and chassis) for several minutes then reconnect them possibly resetting the computers.

Herman  

[eric@babin.com]

I called Lippert at 432-547-7378.  They were very informative......

Everything points to it being a tripped breaker.

I've called Winnebago at 800-537-1885 to find out where that darn thing is but they are closed until tomorrow the 4th.

Where is this leveler breaker on a 2104 Itasca Ellipse (Winnebago Tour)????? 

Edited January 3, 2022 by eric@babin.com

[wayne77590]

Eric, did they tell you how to reset the controller?  I can't remember exactly but I think it was pushing the enter and retract button at the same time for 6 seconds.  Don't shoot me if I'm wrong...but if Lippert didn't tell you that call them again and ask if that would help.

Also press and hold the retract button depressed and see if that brings them up.

Breaker's in rear battery/DEF compartment. Some, or fuses, up front compartment on driver's side. I'll wager you already know that.

Edited January 3, 2022 by wayne77590

[eric@babin.com]

On 1/3/2022 at 10:48 AM, wayne77590 said:

Eric, did they tell you how to reset the controller?  I can't remember exactly but I think it was pushing the enter and retract button at the same time for 6 seconds.  Don't shoot me if I'm wrong...but if Lippert didn't tell you that call them again and ask if that would help.

Also press and hold the retract button depressed and see if that brings them up.

Breaker's in rear battery/DEF compartment. Some, or fuses, up front compartment on driver's side. I'll wager you already know that.

I've tried to reset via the touchpad.... won't do anything except show "low voltage".

I've looked through all the obvious breakers and fuses but can't find one that services the levelers.  I've checked under the drivers window and in battery compartment. As well as the ones inside under the bed. 

Made in appt for an RV tech to come out next week... so, would be great if I found it prior to that!

[wildebill308]

What is the voltage coming into the controller?

Bill

[eric@babin.com]

8 hours ago, wildebill308 said:

What is the voltage coming into the controller?

Bill

zero.

 

[wayne77590]

Eric, Another Thread

Do you run the motor when using the jacks. Need to do that.

[eric@babin.com]

On 1/5/2022 at 10:49 PM, wayne77590 said:

Eric, Another Thread

Do you run the motor when using the jacks. Need to do that.

Yes....

RV Tech coming to take a look today.

I have given up.  

I hope he has experience with this.... I just hate to spend $200 for him to say, "hmmm..... that's a tough one". 

[wildebill308]

1 hour ago, eric@babin.com said:

that's a tough one". 

What did the RV Tech have to say? Never seen nothing like that before....😁

Bill

[eric@babin.com]

Original post updated with the fix!  

RV tech found it!

[wayne77590]

150Amp. Who woulda thought!

Thanks for posting the update and pictures.

Edited January 20, 2022 by wayne77590

[raypesek]

Do you use Auto Level? That's the most common cause for the Lippert hydraulic fuse blowing or the breaker tripping. Auto Level tries to raise the coach too high, the jacks hit full extension, and the fuse blows or the breaker pops.

Lippert has a manual retraction process but it depends on exactly what system you have. On ours, we remove a connector from a valve, turn the solenoid hex screws for the jacks, and spin the pump with an electric drill.

Perhaps you can find your process here: https://support.lci1.com/hydraulic-leveling-support-motorized-leveling/

Ours appears to be this one: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/technical-information-sheets/leveling-and-stabilization/ccd-0001926.pdf

Ray

[eric@babin.com]

On 1/25/2022 at 2:03 PM, raypesek said:

Do you use Auto Level? That's the most common cause for the Lippert hydraulic fuse blowing or the breaker tripping. Auto Level tries to raise the coach too high, the jacks hit full extension, and the fuse blows or the breaker pops.

Lippert has a manual retraction process but it depends on exactly what system you have. On ours, we remove a connector from a valve, turn the solenoid hex screws for the jacks, and spin the pump with an electric drill.

Perhaps you can find your process here: https://support.lci1.com/hydraulic-leveling-support-motorized-leveling/

Ours appears to be this one: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws.com/technical-information-sheets/leveling-and-stabilization/ccd-0001926.pdf

Ray

Yes... I use autolevel 100% of the time.  Good to know the probably "reason". I was a little worried.

Also, I've always thought it raised it too high.... Maybe I'll start doing a manual level. 

Manual retract.  Yes, I was able to retract mine using the exact method you described.  

Edited January 31, 2022 by eric@babin.com

[raypesek]

For whatever it's worth, every time someone with a Georgetown gasser, as we have (38'), complains about Lippert's Auto Level I post the instructions below for using Manual Leveling instead. Usually the complaint is that Auto Level lifts the coach too high and some tires, usually the front, come off the ground:

I think you'll find that most experienced Georgetown owners, including me, use Manual leveling exclusively. 

Even after calibrating our 2020 GT5 jacks I did not like how Auto really jerks the coach around. It seems to "split the difference" on each adjustment and that results in the coach being higher than we like (less weight and less tire footprint on the ground). What I do now:

1. Turn on the panel and push Manual.

2. Using your level of choice (I use the LevelMatePRO system), see whether the front is the lowest or the rear is the lowest. I also use the Android app named Bubble Level by Gamma Play. I just set the phone on the kitchen counter between the sink and the stove top.

CAUTION: If the rear is lowest, that is a warning that the jacks may lift the rear coach tires off the ground, the tires where the parking brake is. Bad things will happen if you allow that, especially if there is any wind or rain. Closely evaluate whether repositioning the coach or driving each rear tire up on blocks is a better alternative. HINT: Yes, it is. 　 

3. Push and hold the button for whichever end is lowest. Raise that end up until the coach is now either level front-to-rear or that end is a touch higher. I make it a touch higher because the next step will raise the other end a bit.

4. Push and hold the button for the other end until you just feel the coach move.

5. Walk outside to assure all four jack feet are on the ground and no tires are close to coming off the ground, especially the rears where the parking brake is. 

6. Now level left-to-right and re-check that no tires are close to coming off the ground.

7. Turn the leveling panel off.

In Auto mode, if the panel is properly calibrated, the green LCI light will be solid green when level. In Manual mode (on ours), if the panel is properly calibrated, the green LCI light will be flashing green when level.

I always double-check with the the Bubble Level app. I can feel if the coach is much more than 0.5 degrees off-level, so I try to keep it within a half-degree both front-rear and especially left-right. I'll usually try to keep the front a bit high so rain water runs off the rear instead of the front.

NOTE: The jacks always move in pairs to avoid twisting the frame. That's also why there is only a Retract All function; to avoid twisting the frame.

LITTLE KNOWN FACT: When you are in Manual mode, the Retract All button does NOT perform a full retract. It just retracts all four jacks while you have your finger on the button. You may be able to make a minor correction this way.

NOTE: Lifting the front too high will also make the bottom entry step a lot higher. Many of us carry a large stepstool for those situations.

NOTE: Remember that your holding tank dumps are on the driver side. If you are higher on the driver side than the passenger side, even a bit, you cannot fully drain the tanks so they may fill faster than expected. That's because the holding tanks are far longer than they are high.

NOTE: With the LevelMatePRO system, it seems that as long as 4" or less is needed before extending the jacks, I can use the jacks without needing any blocks. FWIW, I do have RV SnapPads installed on all of my jack feet to give them a bigger footprint and to protect the flimsy metal used for the jack feet from bending. The RV SnapPads do add 1" to the bottom, so they're sort of like having a 1" block under each jack all the time.

Edited January 31, 2022 by raypesek

[raypesek]

Then someone will follow up with how they have had tires off the ground for years and never had a problem so I follow up with this and let the OP make their own evaluation:

While many people are comfortable with having a tire or tires off the ground, I am not because of that whole pesky "things break" problem. 🙁 I've worked on way too many hydraulic systems in one of my careers (aviation maintenance) to ever fully trust a hydraulic system, or any system, to never fail. As many redundancies as there are in a modern jet things still can and do break.

A few ways a failure can cause collateral damage:

- Jack collapses with a tire off the ground and the frame gets twisted as that corner collapses to the ground while the other three are still elevated.

- Jack collapses with a tire off the ground and the windshield pops out and/or cracks.

- Raising the front tires off the ground also raises the entry step a lot higher. Even if a stepstool is used the risk of a fall by a person increases.

Even people with brand new Georgetowns have posted about how they had a massive hydraulic leak due to an improperly-routed line. 

I also worked a long time as a firefighter/paramedic. Our job began when people's decisions went bad or when things that "always worked" went and failed.

While I'm not comfortable with having a tire off the ground I know many people are. We're all influenced by our training and life experiences.

FWIW.