f475810 Report post Posted April 20, 2023 I have an Atwood GE16 EXT water in my 2009 Tuscany. I bought a new heating element, and had to pull the entire heater to get access to the old element. It’s obviously the original factory installation. The new element came with a rubber gasket installed on it, but the old element did not have one! And when I try to install the new element with gasket, it squeezes out with little more than hand tightening pressure. So my question for you is, do I really need the gasket, since the original install didn’t use one? Any help is appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted April 20, 2023 Welcome to the forum. Without hands on, I would try a couple wraps of teflon tape on the threads. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rossboyer Report post Posted April 20, 2023 Agree. You might use the thicker type used for gas lines. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f475810 Report post Posted April 20, 2023 Thanks for the input guys. Just to be safe, and make sure, I’ll also run back to the dealership that sold me the new element, with it and the old one for comparison. I’m pretty sure they gave me the right one, but you never know!! Appreciate your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted April 23, 2023 (edited) The 120VAC heating element is nothing special, the same overall length element from any hardware store is the same item. I think your old one had a gasket, did you scrape the mating surface before installing that new one? I think mine had a fiber gasket instead of rubber/neoprene. That would have to be a special compound if made of rubber, because the water reachs a temperature of 140°F. The thermostat is a snap disc t-stat. Opens at 140*F and Closes at 110*F for heating cycle. (ECO -HI Temp Opens at 180*F/Closes at 150*F) Edited April 23, 2023 by rayin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f475810 Report post Posted April 24, 2023 Ok, here’s an update to my water heater saga…… I got the gasket to seal properly, new element installed and holding just fine. Since I had it out, I went ahead and installed a new circuit board and the 12v switch on the backside. I still can’t get the darn thing to work on electric, but the gas side works just fine! I have 110v to the element and over 12v to the yellow wire leading from the circuit board to the switch. Any suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dons2346 Report post Posted April 24, 2023 I don't understand why you don't have hot water if you have 110v at the element. To get 110 there the relay has to be activated. Attached is some info from a guy that is a water heater guru on another forum, hope it helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rayin Report post Posted April 24, 2023 That only leaves one thing, new element is faulty. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dons2346 Report post Posted April 24, 2023 Mark, Turn off the circuit breaker for the water heater, then remove the wires from the heating element. Using an ohm meter measure the resistance of the element. If you have a 1400 watt element, the resistance should be about 10 ohms. I don't remember if there is a circuit breaker under the cover housing the relay Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f475810 Report post Posted April 24, 2023 Mystery solved!!!! Since I can’t get to the heating element without ripping the water heater out of the coach, I went back over the wiring that I could reach one last time. I found that the white wire that feeds 12v to the circuit board had a bad pin connection!!!! The slightest movement would cause it to come loose, and/or connect. fixed that and the hot water is flowing again. Thanks again to each of you who gave me input. Much appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dons2346 Report post Posted April 24, 2023 Good Deal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites