No "Hot Water" At Taps

[phillips1202]

Hello,

We have a 2006 Bounder with an Atwood 10 gal water heater. This is our first use this spring. Water in heater is very hot, but water at all taps is luke warm. Have checked all valves (exterior shower, bath shower) to make sure they are closed. Pulled the water heater bypass valve and examined. Still luke warm water at faucets. I turn off the water heater bypass valve and get cold water, turn on and get luke warm water. I suspect I have a "mixing problem," but have no idea where else to look. Help!

Chuck Phillips

[elkhartjim]

One or both the valves on the outside shower are open. That's where it's mixing.

[phillips1202]

Jim,

Have already checked all areas where mixing can occur. Is there possibly a check valve on the heater that may be stuck open?

Thanks,

Chuck

PS. Lived in Elkhart for 18 yrs until 1987.

[elkhartjim]

Call Fleetwood with your FIN or VIN number. They can e-mail you a plumbing diagram and while you're at it get an electric diagram also. Just for kicks, double check the outside shower knobs and remember they both turn the same direction to shut-off.

[Jon796]

I had the same problem with my atwood 10 gal heater. IT was the mixing valve on back of heater. They told me they see this alot in the spring when people start their unit up because stuff from the tank gets into the valve. They had me take it off and soak in Vinager over night. Then with your mouth blow it out and also make sure the ball valve moves.

That's what they said to do and I will tell you it didn't work. That valve is not cheap so I just dis-connected the cold water supply at the valve.

[tbutler]

There is indeed a backflow prevention (check) valve installed in the water heater where the hot water exits the water heater. Ours failed several years ago. The broken stopper in the valve prevented flow from the hot water tank. Over several days it was intermittent. Sometimes it would stop all flow and other times it worked properly. We finally had someone pull the valve which proved to be impossible so they removed the interior works of the valve and the water heater has worked fine ever since. Since we were full timers we didn't need the check valve as its use is as a means of winterizing the water system without having to fill the entire water heater with antifreeze. I can't say that our water was luke-warm when the valve was malfunctioning, there just wasn't enough flow to make showers comfortable. Just a thought on a possible solution.

[rogerrice1]

I own a 2007 Excursion I had the same problem and repaired the problem by carefully cutting of the screw head that seals the

the knob on the mixing valve pull knob half way out far enough to remove the knob from the outer spline and turn the knob counterclock wise a turn and and half.

Check how hot your water is and adjust the valve to your suitable water temperture.

rogerrice1

[Dublinvet]

I also have a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder 35E and for the whole month of January I had no hot water to the bathrooms or shower. I spent $350 for replacement of thermostats, electronic control box, etc. and still had no hot water except for kitchen sink and then only after running hot water for an extended period of time. My exterior shower valves were completely turned off. I was told that there is no mix valve on the Atwood 10 gal heater for this model. 3 weeks ago I managed to get the motorhome to RCD in Pataskala, Ohio, spent another $145 for them to tell me there is nothing wrong with the unit. Now what do I do?

[phillips1202]

Well, here's my story as it continues. I spoke with Fleetwood twice today. Two different stories. Anyway, I had to remove the bed box top to get even close to the back of the heater. It now appears there is two valves controlling cold water. I could only move one and it created totally cold water from heater, entirely bypassing the heater. The other one, I can't move. I have no idea why there isn't a simple setup with cold going in the heater and one hot going out. I've given up and am trying to get a local mobile service company to visit our resort.

The real issue is we bought this unit last October, used it for two weeks, winterized it and then this happens on our first trip this year. Murphy's law!

Chuck P.

[thomassc]

Chuck,

We had very similar problem with our coach. We were convinced it was the mixing valve. We had a tech come out and he removed the mixing valve. He told us that the mixing value often times build up deposits from the hard water and make them not function properly. If he replaced it we would have the same problem down the road. The tech took ours off and we had the same problem scalding at the hot water heater and lukewarm inside. We tracked ours finally down to the outside faucets in the water compartment. If they are slightly on (ours didn't appear to be on) you will have this problem. We turned ours on and off and it fixed the problem. Hope this helps you.

Tom

Discovery 40G

[pstodgell]

We have a 2007 Bounder which had the same problem.We found it to be a mixer valve at bottom of hot water tank under the closet/washing machine in the bedroom. Had it replaced 3 times and it failed every time. Finally, removed it completely and it works great. However, the water is now very hot. Hope this helps

[phillips1202]

Well...... Our Story is Done (for now),

After removing the bed platform I found that there is a mixing valve at the hot water exit from the tank...........only God knows why. Disconnected the cold water tube from the valve, capped it off, and amazingly we have hot water at taps. This valve probably needs to be removed, but I don't want to do while on the road. I have to say, I'm very disappointed in Fleetwood for not knowing about it, and for installing it this way. Thanks to all who tried to help us.

Chuck P.

[teachers_pet]

I see no responded after you found the "mixing valve" at the rear of the water heater. Are you sure this valve wasn't the water heater bypass for winterizing the motorhome?

[AUGIEP]

I have had a similar problem with the water heater on our 2006 Bounder Diesel. The hot water would come on in the shower for about 30 seconds and then turn cold. I was told by Fleetwood that the heater is actually a six gallon heater and the mixing unit "cools" the scalding hot water to achieve the 10 gallon hot water rating. The RV repair shop told me the mixing valve is most likely the culprit. Finding it is another thing. It is poorly located and hard to reach. I'm thinking we will have it removed and see if it solves the problem of GI showers!!

[AUGIEP]

The ongoing saga.... I have made several calls to Fleetwood to understand why we have no water. After flushing the hot water heater, I found a lot of debris coming out. It looked like grey sludge. Refilling the water heater and firing it up once again gave us some improvement but not much. I noticed some grey water and some debris coming out of the faucets. After speaking to some experts, I believe the problem is particles collecting in the mixing valve ( the valve on the top of the rear of the water heater. I also found out this valve has a knob that is supposed to regulate the amount of cold water being mixed with the hot water. Why do they do that?? good question.. Fleetwood said the tank is really a 6 gallon tank that mixes with 4 gallons of cold water to produce the 10 gallon rating. There is a screen in the mixing valve. If these particles obstruct the flow of hot water, it will limit the amount of hot water being mixed with the cold water. The biggest problem I see is the accessibility to these valves. My solution: I will install a new thermostatically controlled mixing valve on the inside wall of the closet so I can "dial in" a comfortable temperature. The reason you can't turn the installed mixing valve is because Watts puts glue in the center to prevent it being adjusted and causing possible scalding. (See RV Doctor). I will also put a mixing valve that has a purge on it fitted with a ball valve that will allow me to flush the mixing valve periodically in the comfort of the "closet" without having to remove the floor to gain access. I'll let you know how this works.

[AUGIEP]

By the way, the bypass valve has a yellow handle and is located at the bottom in the rear of the heater. There is also a "T" which directs a stream of cold water to the mixing valve at the top of the tank that mixes some cold water with the heated water.

[AUGIEP]

I finally solved my problem. I replaced the mixing valve located in the outlet of the water heater with a remotely located Strahman mixing valve. The new valve has a dial which allows me to easily adjust the water temperature. I located it under the washing/dryer to the left of the drawer. Problem solved. We now have plenty of hot water for four adult showers.. What's even nicer is this new valve shouldn't get clogged with debris like the OEM valve.

[hermanmullins]

Hey Fleetwood, have you seen this post?

But its not just Fleetwood, they all make them the same. Their logic is "see how easy it was to put that thing there before we put in the flooring.". Now when we install the closet you can't see the ugly thing. Oh yea lets put the washer dryer in the closet because we have the space. Then we have room to put in the bath cabinets, which by the way when installed you can only open the washer door just enough to open the washer door.

But hey my butt can squeeze by with only a slightest effort.

But you have to love them anyway.

[AUGIEP]

I had a similar problem with my 2006 Fleetwood Bounder. The mixing valve is located on the back of the tank and made it nearly impossible to reach. I removed the valve and positioned a Strahman Adjustable Mixing valve in a convenient location which is easily accessible. Not only do I have plenty of hot water, but I can easily adjust the temperature by simply turning the knob on the valve. PROBLEM SOLVED>>>

[biglwhit]

That exactly fixed my problem Thank you AUGIEP....