Ford Sparkplug Issue

[dickandlois]

Ford Spark Plug issues.

Replacing spark plugs has been a no-brainer for most passenger vehicles for, say, the last 100 years. But for millions of owners of V8-powered Fords from the 2004 to 2008 model years, a spark-plug change can lead to an expensive, hours-long ordeal.

Why? Because the original spark plugs can weld themselves to the cylinder head and break into pieces when someone tries to unscrew them, leaving the bottom of the plug stuck inside the cylinder head. Fishing out the broken section requires special tools and a trained technician.

The engines in question are three-valve V8s, mostly 4.6- and 5.4-liter powerplants, found in many Ford Explorers, Explorer Sport Tracs, Expeditions, and F-Series pickups, and Mustangs, Mercury Mountaineers, and Lincoln Navigators and Mark LTs.

At the heart of the problem is a unique Motorcraft spark plug with a two-piece metal shell that’s vulnerable to corrosion over time and to breaking apart on removal. The original service interval was 100,000 miles, meaning that the first recommended service would take place long after the vehicle’s basic warranty expired.

Ford has known about this problem for a long time, and in 2008 issued an 11-page technical service bulletin (TSB 08-7-6) with exacting instructions for handling three different ways technicians could expect the spark plugs break on removal.

Visit our guide to car maintainence.

A further aggravation is that mechanics can’t predict how long the service will take. Anywhere from none to all eight plugs could shatter, running the bill to many hundreds of dollars. If things really go wrong, it could mean removing or replacing one or both cylinder heads, which can run to thousands of dollars.

In the meantime, Motorcraft, Ford’s parts brand, has designed a one-piece spark plug that’s less likely to fall apart. If you own one of these vehicles, you should certainly demand the most up-to-date plug. Our technical advisers say it’s also a good idea to have the plugs changed every 30,000 miles, regardless of what the owner’s manual may say, even if they’re the newer type.

Since this is a known problem related to what we see as a design defect, we think Ford should cover this service under an extended warranty. It’s not fair to make consumers pick up the tab for a known defect.

—Seung Min Yu and Gordon Hard

Rich.

[wolfe10]

This issue affects all Ford modular engines, including the V10.

[huffypuff]

In my shop I have the extractor tool, taps for new seats and 6 mm camera to see what I'm doing. I expect at least one at each spark plug change.

Brett what Rich is talking about the Triton 3 valve engine with the extended spark plugs. The non Triton engine have normal spark plugs and not without problems. The non Triton have only a few threads to hold plug in and strips easy.

Hint for Triton 3 valve engines, pull vacuum line and suck a can of seafoam slowly into engine at idle and then let set overnight before removing plugs. I never had plugs break after doing that. Use Champion replacement spark plugs for replacement for they are solid not crimped on like Motorcraft. When installing put anti seize on both body and threads of spark plugs so no problem to remove later.

[MadHungarian]

In my shop I have the extractor tool, taps for new seats and 6 mm camera to see what I'm doing. I expect at least one at each spark plug change.

Brett what Rich is talking about the Triton 3 valve engine with the extended spark plugs. The non Triton engine have normal spark plugs and not without problems. The non Triton have only a few threads to hold plug in and strips easy.

Hint for Triton 3 valve engines, pull vacuum line and suck a can of seafoam slowly into engine at idle and then let set overnight before removing plugs. I never had plugs break after doing that. Use Champion replacement spark plugs for replacement for they are solid not crimped on like Motorcraft. When installing put anti seize on both body and threads of spark plugs so no problem to remove later.

I hate, hate, hate doing plugs in these engines - not because of the plugs breaking when trying to remove them, but because of trash and small stones becoming lodged in the spark plug recess - especially when our company trucks have been out on the road under less than ideal conditions. I always take a shop vac and try to remove any foreign objects from the recess first before attempting to remove the plug, as this ensures that nothing will fall into the cylinder. If you manage to get the socket around the flats on the plug, there's still a chance that something can fall in.

[huffypuff]

I hate, hate, hate doing plugs in these engines - not because of the plugs breaking when trying to remove them, but because of trash and small stones becoming lodged in the spark plug recess - especially when our company trucks have been out on the road under less than ideal conditions. I always take a shop vac and try to remove any foreign objects from the recess first before attempting to remove the plug, as this ensures that nothing will fall into the cylinder. If you manage to get the socket around the flats on the plug, there's still a chance that something can fall in.

I hear you MadHungarian as so many gas vehicles has gone to recess plugs. Another good method is to blow compress air into the recess to blow out debris being sure you have your safety glasses on. I worked government fleet for 30 years and I know how bad the operating conditions can be.

[wildebill308]

I hear you MadHungarian as so many gas vehicles has gone to recess plugs. Another good method is to blow compress air into the recess to blow out debris being sure you have your safety glasses on. I worked government fleet for 30 years and I know how bad the operating conditions can be.

I like to use a good shop vac to apply suction while I carefully blow out the recess you might try a small artist brush to get down beside the plug and loosen dirt and debris when using the vacuum.

Bill