Southwind Electrical Problem

[f301359]

My 2011 Southwind 32VS, has some type of electrical issue that I have never seen before. It started with the front TV not turning off when I started the engine. Then I noticed that my Kwikee electric step wouldn't close when the engine was started as well. But, the step works in the other modes, ie. door open/door closed.

Then I noticed my DRL's aren't on when the engine is running and now the controls to my HWH jacks are dead. I have checked every fuse both at the engine and coach and all are fine. It's the relay's I haven't checked as I'm not sure how to do that.

Is there a central control module somewhere under the coach that could be causing me all this grief??

Help!!

[dickandlois]

F301359! From the information you posted, Check the coach builders fuse(s) in the chassis fuse box. Sounds like you have blown a 20 amp fuse the chassis builder installs so the items you mention power up.

You did not post the make of your chassis, but it is often mounted firewall just above the engine.

I'm thinking that the 12 volt accessories outlet(s) (They look like cigarette lighter sockets) also do not have power !

Rich.

[f301359]

Thanks for the info. I checked those fuses and thanks to youtube I was able to check all the relays and all are working.

There has got to be an engine interrupt circuit or controller box some where.

But I can't find it??

[wolfe10]

Many coaches have an "ignition solenoid" that powers all the circuits that are only live when the ignition is on. If you verify that all accessories and items that SHOULD work with the ignition on are not working, THAT is where you should look.

[cmarq]

I would suggest contacting Fleetwood and ask for wiring diagram. They have given me info on my Pace Arrow when I needed a wiring diagram.

[f301359]

Thanks for the info. I will contact Fleetwood and get the schematic and I will check all the accessories to ensure nothing else is off line.

[f301359]

Fixed. Thanks for all your help.

[huffypuff]

Glad you got it fixed but please share what fixed it.

[f301359]

Glad to. I checked all the fuse boxes that coach had, but what I found was a fuse under the dash-- a chassis fuse that controlled my Jacks, electric step over-ride and TV engine over-ride.

I checked them several times, but that fuse only showed bad when I removed it and looked for continuity.

Keep in mind that this fuse a 10amp was listed as a builder's fuse and nothing related to the jacks, step or TV.

Thanks Rich and Lois!!

[dickandlois]

f301359,

Thanks for your reply!

Interesting that the fuse you found was only a 10 amp!

Most of the information I have mentions the Chassis builders fuse is 20 amp.

The fact that you where reading voltage on both ends of the fuse, even when it was defective; kind of tells me that you where might be using a digital meter. They do not load the circuits like the older meters. This is a time when a test a light, might have found the problem on the first try.

The technical term for this issue when using a digital meter is Capacitive cupping. Happens when you have 2 possible 12 volt sources. The second source in your case is the entry step, that is also powered from the coach 12 volts when the engine is not running.

When you get time, could you post the circuit and or fuse used for the Accessory output(s). Think there is a small change in the chassis builders wiring on your model chassis.

Thanks !

Rich.

[f301359]

You are correct, my multimeter was a cheap version and I was initially fooled. If I recall correctly I found the fuse to the accessories in the power box in a bay above the LP Tank and also in the fuse box in front of the engine.

That's what through me off, because the failure wasn't cut and dry. I had to check many circuits and yes I was surprised that a 10amp fuse was working all these different circuits.

I'm wondering if I should go to a 15amp fuse just to be safe.

[dickandlois]

If I recall correctly I found the fuse to the accessories in the power box in a bay above the LP Tank and also in the fuse box in front of the engine.

Question, are you saying that there a two fuses for the accessories?

If that is the case, you only had one fuse that failed? of the 2?

The DRL's Daytime Running lights are powered from another fuse, the 10 amp fuse only feeds the power relay. Now on most units the DRL's are only on when the unit is in gear!

The same goes for the Step control circuit,TV lock out while moving and The HWH leveling circuit power.

All these items have other main power fuses feeding there respective loads.

You did not mention if your accessory outlets where still working and they often have a 20 amp fuse in the chassis fuse box, supplied by the chassis builder.

I do not think it is necessary to increase the size of the failed fuse at this time. Should you have further issue with this fuse. A call to the coach builder and the chassis builder might be in order.

Keep us posted.

Rich.

[hermanmullins]

I have to go along with Rich. If a fuse blows, What Caused it to Blow???? If and when I replace a blown fuse and don't have the problem again. However if I replace the fuse (with the same amperage fuse) and it blows again then that is when I search for what causes it to fail.

Increasing the amperage of the fuse is a really good way to find the source of the problem, put in the larger fuse, turn on the power and look for the smoke.

Herman

[wolfe10]

Basics of fuses-- they are sized to protect the WIRE. We can not tell you if the wire on that circuit is capable of handling more amps or not. Wire gauge, length of run and condition of connectors all help determine that.

Said another way, do NOT upsize fuses without verifying that your system needs it (vs finding out the problem) AND that you will not enable overloading things downstream of the larger fuse (which could cause melting or fire)..

[f301359]

You are all correct. I don't know why that fuse blew. It worked fine until I stopped and started the generator. That's when I noticed my step wouldn't retract as I started the engine and later I noticed my jacks were off line as well as my front TV did not shut off when the engine was running.

The DRL's are another story. But that one 10amp fuse controlled the over ride to these systems and when I replaced that fuse they all worked as designed. The accessory outlets worked fine before and after the bad fuse. I recall when I was trouble shooting the fuses I removed a fuse from the main coach power center, marked "step" and the step retracted, so the steps was receiving power from more than one circuit. I will definitely keep an eye on this one fuse and if it blows again it's off to the dealer.

I have owned a number of coaches over the years and I can recall only a handful of times that a fuse let go and generally it was my fault, crossing or grounding a hot wire.

Again thanks for your input.