kaypsmith Report post Posted September 23, 2016 Joe, wish my air chambers, air bags, and shocks had been that easy. All done except one bag was back ordered, hope that isn't too long coming. Shooting for Oct 7 take off for Pigeon Forge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 23, 2016 Kay, that sounds like a lot of work! I have a free sample of this stuff and that is what I was using to lube this up. http://www.pro1energy.com/products/rig-maintenance/xpl-101-penetrating-lubricant/ The demonstration they did here was impressive, I was skeptical but it either worked as they claim or I got lucky. I will say the manifold has no rust on it anymore, when I looked in last night I was shocked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 23, 2016 Joe, how many trucks is part of the control test? how long, until you know the results? Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 23, 2016 I have three tractor trailers that park off site where the lift gates are always washing the grease out between PM's. We have to grease these every other month or they will bind up, which may not sound like a big deal but when you have to pay a road service to run out and grease the fleet every other month it adds up. I am going to take a road trip up grease them myself and see how long they go before the driver complains his gate is binding again. Once winter settles in will be a real test, I am going to lube by coach with the tube they gave me and see if my brakes bind, (I can hear them struggle to release midway through the season with the mobile one synthetic grease I use now) We are also running their products on a fleet of old Mack's here beginning next week. I am still drafting up the details on those to provide to our fleet techs. Time will tell.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 24, 2016 started at 9:15 finished at 1:00. No broken bolts . Much quieter now Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 24, 2016 Would that stuff work on wheel hubs? Is it sold retail, or just commercial bulk? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 24, 2016 Wheel hubs? As in lug nuts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted September 24, 2016 3 hours ago, jleamont said: Wheel hubs? As in lug nuts? I don't know what grease you are using at the shop but I have had good luck with Sta-Lube both for general use the moly graph lithium grease is a good general purpose and the wheel bearing grease really does stay in the bearings better. I think the graph lithium grease may work for your problem with the lift gates. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 25, 2016 Thanks bill! At work we run oil bath hubs. They run cooler than grease packed. On gates we run Mobile One synthetic now. Hopefully this stuff works. But it comes with a cost $$$$ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 25, 2016 Carl, that grease should be great in a wheel bearing. It actually goes to the heat source. If you ever watched oil in a pan, it tends to gravitate away from the heat source, all of there lubes do the opposite. They boast about positive energy. Where others are a negative. We were all skeptical until they tested our grease and theirs on the same test right in front of us. The results were surprising. My concern is how it performs over time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted September 25, 2016 30 minutes ago, jleamont said: Thanks bill! At work we run oil bath hubs. They run cooler than grease packed. On gates we run Mobile One synthetic now. Hopefully this stuff works. But it comes with a cost $$$$ I know about oil bath hubs as I am running them and did my first change this year and went to Royal Purple oil,they didn't have mobil 1 in stock. Look at the Sta-Lube wheel bearing grease for boat trailers it does a good job of not washing away. I am talking about using it at work. I like and use the Mobile One synthetic. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 25, 2016 Joe, Bill. I have learned a lot about the ProOne in the past couple of days. It was originally developed by Baroid as an environmentally safe alternative in drilling fluids as a drill bit lubricant. Halliburton is experts in cement...they bought Baroid and then saw other possibilities for the drill lube! The new generation lube that your using now, comes in many forms and is designed to be used in all fuel and oil application, from cars and trucks to lawn mowers. As soon as I hear back from Baroid, I should know where we can get ProOne and the cost per quart. I intend to add 20% to my next Oil change in all my vehicles, also fuel. Their is a video on Halliburton's web site and it is very impressive! You can also, down load the specs! Joe, hubs, I meant oil bath and yes it is designed for that also...Comes in different viscosities. It's vegetable oil based, biodegradable and don't worry about spillage, it has no toxins in it. Carl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 25, 2016 Carl, you sound like the rep that came out and did the demonstration . A mixture in the front hubs of their product and synthetic gear oil would be a good combination. We have a saying at work; Crawl Walk Run, I'm sure it will be in the fleet in several applications once we get to the "Run" stage. Their penetrating oil was all the way down the bolt threads when I pulled them. Considering the manifold was tight against the head when it was applied was impressive!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted September 25, 2016 All metal to metal parts will benefit and especially diesel engines when cold and first started...that's when a lot of wear occur! ProOne does not gel at very low temperatures... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted September 26, 2016 Ok my bad I missed the link to the super lube. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 30, 2016 After doing some more research I am reading the manifolds crack from cooling down too quickly. This is the benefit of the "manifold blanket" and exhaust wrap products. I can understand that in cooler temperatures but what about a hot summer day in the south pulling a hill? Since the turbocharger is lubricated with lube oil from the crank case, if it gets too hot that will cook off, or is it flowing too fast through the turbo. Any thermal engineers on here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dickandlois Report post Posted September 30, 2016 Hi Joe, The Science of heat transfer is covered in Science and Physic's gets into that area. There are software programs that allow one to calculate it and change a wide range of variables. Got into it just a little, have a physics major in the family that thinks it is kind of Cool. Way out of my pay scale. After doing some more research I am reading the manifolds crack from cooling down too quickly. TRUE- When you weld cast-iron it needs to be heated to a predetermined level, welded and cooled slowly to prevent cracking. This is the benefit of the "manifold blanket" and exhaust wrap products. I can understand that in cooler temperatures but what about a hot summer day in the south pulling a hill? The Blanket would reduce the hear loose rate and therefore reduce the chances of cracking, but again there are a number of variables. Since the turbocharger is lubricated with lube oil from the crank case, if it gets too hot that will cook off, or is it flowing too fast through the turbo. This item raises some more interesting variables. Rate of flow at a given pressure through a specified closed system design. Flow rate can be influenced by, pressure, temperature, length of the path, size of the rifling, number of bends, Viscosity and the chemistry of the oil. Brain drain !! You might be able to construct test fixture using the exact components of the Turbo system from the high pressure feed point to return low pressure point. A means of setting variable pressure levels, oil an turbo temperatures and different oils. Construct a grid to plot the flow rate of a given amount of oil and vary the temperature and pressure and see what the numbers say. I tend to run the engine long enough to allow the manifold temp to drop at an RPM that maintains an oil pressure of 30 psi, until that pressure is present at the engine preset idle speed. Rich. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 30, 2016 Rich, it is one of those "give and take" things. While I see the benefit of the blanket I don't want to create other issues. I guess the real question is does the exhaust manifold cool from the outside or inside? If inside, the blanket is of no concern that I can see. I would like to connect with a test on a DP to see how it runs in an test environment. Not on my coach for obvious reasons. When I Googled it there is a guy on IRV that has a blanket on his ISM for 12 years and over 120,000 miles, which was impressive, it cut down his bedroom temps and no cracked manifolds yet. I think we all can agree to cut the temps in the engine compartment down would be a great benefit, especially in the hot weather, if I can get more miles out of a manifold that would be another benefit, especially for the cost of the blanket, they are not expensive. If it does as advertised and provided more power for the cost of the blanket it would be a bonus. The first turbo that melts down and tosses parts into the CAC and intake would be a huge fail on everything, that is where my concern lays. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted September 30, 2016 Rich, One of the reasons I run Rotella T-6 is to help protect the turbo. I feel it will get to the turbo faster than conventional oil and give more protection in the higher temperatures experienced in the turbo. I think the cracking exhaust manifolds are more of a bad design problem. Yes large heat cycles can make the problem worse. I let my EGT temps drop below 400 degrees before shutting it down. If you have a EGT gage you can see the wide swing in temperature, say from climbing a hill to costing down the other side. If you look at the old manifold compared to the new one you can see how it was beefed up to help fix the problem. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted September 30, 2016 Bill, I got mine connected now so I will keep an eye on it. The instructions were complicated, but the actual installation was simple. Due to the distance of the probe lead I have a Shunt module and another module that had to be wired in. Not using the coach until next weekend pulling the new Toad. And I haven't driven it since the repair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 1, 2016 2 hours ago, jleamont said: Bill, I got mine connected now so I will keep an eye on it. The instructions were complicated, but the actual installation was simple. Due to the distance of the probe lead I have a Shunt module and another module that had to be wired in. Not using the coach until next weekend pulling the new Toad. And I haven't driven it since the repair. You will be having lots of fun, trying out a new toad seeing how the coach runs with full boost again and getting to watch a new gauge. Let me know what the EGT's look like. I do let it cool down but I am more concerned with letting the turbo cool so the residual heat won't coke (burn) the oil in the lines and end up blocking them. When you finish your test run give it a good inspection to make shure everything looks good wires tied up securely and you haven't lost any nut's. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
manholt Report post Posted October 1, 2016 I let my EGT get down below 200. When I camp for the night, I let it idle while I hook up, then check one more time before shutting off...especially in the south in Summer! As far as a Turbo melt down is concerned, your talking big bucks! Cost and labor vs new engine vs re built engine...is not a far stretch. A friend in San Antonio, TX. had to replace the Turbo in a Cummings 450 and it kissed $24K...Now if you include the CAC and manifold? Good Luck on that ! WBill. You'r stuck on nuts, aren't you?! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted October 1, 2016 Manifolds are cheaper and easier to replace than engines. I put enough anti seize on every fastener you could do it over with a pair of pliers. I am going to add insulation to the engine compartment, it's deteriorating from age. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wildebill308 Report post Posted October 1, 2016 14 minutes ago, jleamont said: Manifolds are cheaper and easier to replace than engines. I put enough anti seize on every fastener you could do it over with a pair of pliers. I am going to add insulation to the engine compartment, it's deteriorating from age. Look at Summit Racing they have a good selection of heat barriers. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heat-barrier-and-sound-deadening-mats?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=heat bar&sw=Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats Carl, I was just reminding him to do a good quality, self inspection but yes I like cashews. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jleamont Report post Posted October 1, 2016 Thanks Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
