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rolanddubree

Leveling System Hydraulic Leak Sealers

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Anyone have any luck with something like Steering fluid leak sealers for stopping leaks in hydraulic jack systems?

If so,What products worked best?

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The jack system is the old SMC IDS level system with floor to axe hydraulic jacks used in the 2000 to 2003 Safari and Beavers. Jacks are the so called none repairable type jacks. I found Custom Cylinder Inc in KY who repairs them. They cut cylinders apart, replace seals and re-weld them back together. Fixed one past Aug at $460.00 plus cost of removal and reinstalling. Now another is seal leaking.

Before spending another $500.00 to $700.00 to fix one more jack and a possible 2 more to go plus a possible slide cylinder to go since coach is an old 2001 Beaver thought I might try something like the power steering fluid sealers. But worry if something else, like solenoids or whatever might go bad.

The steering sealers are made for Dexron III fluids and supposed to restore rubber seals. Wondered if anyone had tried it and it worked before trying?

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Sorry, don't know enough about the seals and their chemistry/hydraulic pump to comment.

I would probably start by asking Custom Cylinder since they are familiar with the original and also their replacement seals. They may also know its affect on the hydraulic pump.

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I would try Lucas Oil's Power Steering Stop Leak. It has worked for me on 18 wheelers. Probably would want to drop the fluid in the system a bit and add to fill. It is available online and at many auto parts stores. It can't hurt, but may help. Let us know one way or the other. If my levelers caused me trouble, I would definitely try it.

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I'm not sure Steering fluid leak sealer would not work and wondered if anyone had tried it and found the right product. My reason being I had a rear jack repaired and re-installed - EXPENSIVE! Now another is starting to leak at the seal. Motor home manufacturers install Dexron III in jack systems. However, I have been told the better fluid for RV jack systems is Power Steering Fluid. The formula has a number of ingredients to absorb water, anti-rust preventative, and superior lubricant ability. The normal life of jack seals is 10+ years and after that they can be expected to start to fail just like we do because of old age. SO, Steering fluid Leak Sealers might just extend their life another 5 years or so. The sealers work on the rubber seals to swell their size and put new life in the rubber. The hooker is the use of the right sealer. I'm told it should be a sealer that does NOT contain petroleum Distillates because they will swell the rubber initially but then work on eventually destroying the rubber like those products do. Then the seals fail beyond repair later. I am trying now to find the product without the distillates.


Thanks, looked at Lucas products. Lucas products have the Petroleum distillates which I was trying to avoid. Only one so far I found without the distillates is Bars Leaks Power System Repair. May try this (Bars also makes a STOP LEAK CONCENTRATE that does have the distillates.)



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Lucas is a good product. Imagine the pressures turning the steering wheel on dry asphalt with 12,000 ro 13,000 lbs on the steering axle.

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ObedB.

I was not questioning you! There are a bunch of seals that are made from non rubber compound. Therefore, Petroleum distillates will not degenerate a seal! I use Lucas all the time for different applications! Love the Slick for detailing coach.

I think Roland is reacting to what he has been told about PD, rather than what he knows!

I'm not an expert on seals or rubber, just fairly familiar with Petroleum after 24 years, pre retirement, as a Petroleum Engineer.

Carl

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Since I have rebuilt hydraulic cylinders on Utility trucks and construction equipment I would not add anything to the system, I don't think it would help. The seals are often neoprene and Teflon, if it were my coach I would remove the leaking cylinder, or pay someone to do so, cap the line price a replacement or take it to a local hydraulic repair shop and see if they could hone it, polish the piston and repack it. I have done some myself and sent others out, depending on the piston and bore condition. Usually to have this work completed is not that expensive if it is salvageable, to have it fixed is probably 10% of the replacement price for a new one. I will say this it will most likely be a messy job.

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My comment simply answered his question about power steering stop leak. I would try it before dumping a bunch of money and time into major repairs. He indicates they are not a simple rebuild. Counting labor $700 apiece. If the Lucas doesn't work then start a search for suitable replacements. If the cylinders are available would they cost $700? Joe would have a feel for replacement cost.

I would never question you either Carl. You are obviously a very smart guy. Sent you a PM wishing you well on your trip to Norway.

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My jacks are what is called non repairable. The cylinders are repaired by cutting apart, cleaned up, piston seals replaced, re-welded together, mtg. bracket, re-welded on cylinder, pressure tested at 3000 PSIG, painted and shipped back to me. $450.00 per unit + $30.0 shipping and re-installed. To remove and install 22.5 tires must be removed. That's how it gets up to about $700.00 per jack.

No one makes same size new and if they did they would cost $700.-- to $900.00

From what I have been led to believe the seals are rubber "O" rings. Because of the rubber I have tried looking for a leak sealer without the petroleum distillates. Found only one so far "Bars Leak Power steering Repair." All others list PD as fluid. Have contacted Bars for their recommendation in my application and since they make a number of leak products and all others contain PD. No answer yet!

I have found no one yet who has even tried to use power steering leak sealer and can say it does or does not work. Interesting because I have been told power steering fluid for the jack fluid is a better choice than the Dexron III commonly used. Yet so far no one seems to have even tried it.

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What I don't understand is why are you procrastinating? Dump the stuff in, you have nothing to loss! For the cost of a "rubber O ring", who would care if the DP works for 5 years or 10?

If nothing works, then dump the system you have and get the air/jack system and be done with it.

Carl

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